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Thursday, April 9, 2020

A short visit to Rajaji National Park – Chilla range

A short visit to Rajaji National Park – Chilla range
A Golden backed woodpecker inside the TRH Chilla
             We were struck up and could not undertake any short trips due to certain difficulties in my home front.  However, we got a short window of about a few days and I had to plan for a destination that could be reached overnight or across a day and after visiting the destination for a day, return back the next day.  After much research, I zeroed in on Chilla range of Rajaji National Park.  It is situated in Haridwar District of Uttarakhand and is about 220 odd kilometres from Delhi and further lies about 8 Kms. from the Hardwar Railway Station.  The distance was doable within about five hours and in case of any exigency I could rush back at home quickly.   Being a reserve forest, it was an ideal location for us, to be away from the hustle and bustle of city life for some time.   For the trip to fructify, the foremost requirement was to identify a suitable place to stay at the location and also to find out if any accommodation was still available.  There are only two good boarding & lodging arrangement within the precincts as well as periphery of the Park vicinity i.e. the Forest Rest House and the other one is the Tourist Rest House run by Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam Ltd. (GMVN for short).  By luck I could source a family room in the GMVN run facility, as the Forest Rest house was fully booked.

A map showing location of Rajaji National Park, Chilla (sourced from net)
The outer gate of TRH, Chilla
Inside wide-angle view of TRH, Chilla
View of water canal formed by the barrage behind TRH, Chilla
A Cormorant looking for fish in the canal behind TRH, Chilla
           We started in the morning at around 7.30 A.M, which was quite late by our standards, considering the fact that whenever I visit my summer pad in Ranikhet, we usually start at around 6.00 A.M sharp.  But as the distance was about more than a 100 Kms. less and coupled with the fact that the present drive did not require any hill driving, we were quite comfortably placed.  The road from Delhi to Meerut was excellent, being newly constructed, by using the bye-pass we were able to make quick progress upto Meerut.  Thereafter, the road was again congested and the journey, time consuming.  Around 10.00 A.M we reached Muzzafar Nagar and had our first break for B’fast at Bikanerwala, which is very conveniently placed, right on the highway, with ample parking space.  The restaurant offers great food and there is a wide variety to choose from and the public utilities are well maintained and is a most suitable spot to drop in for a short break.  Having, had our fill we proceeded further and reached Haridwar after negotiating another bottleneck at Roorkee.  Having reached Haridwar, we overshot the cut which led to the destination and instead manoeuvred our car towards the barrage entry and were rightly guided back to take the cut from road that leads towards Chandi Devi temple and we finally reached Chilla at around 3.00 P.M.  Thereafter, having made ourselves comfortable in our rooms, we ordered some snacks and really enjoyed them, the food per se was quite delicious in the GMVN run Tourist Rest House.  Having had our tea and snacks, it was time to call up Viru Negi to check out about the next day’s safari booking for visiting Rajaji National Park.  Late in the evening he turned up in his Jeep and after dropping his guests for the day, we had tete a’ tete and I sought the afternoon safari for the next day.  During the period that I waited for Viru Negi ji to make an appearance, I strolled along the canal formed due to barrage across the Ganga River and could spot quite a few birds around the TRH complex itself and shot photographs using my camera and am sharing with you all in my blog.
A Buzzard flying by at the birding spot near Chilla
Some Cormorants flying across in the sky avboe
Bahminy Shelduck in Ganga in the birding spot near Chilla
A Common Kingfisher in the birding spot near Chilla
            New day morning while I was strolling with my camera along the side of TRH, another local bird enthusiast approached me and gave me some information about another birding spot in the locality and we drove up to the destination and shot a few birds with my camera, accompanied by my Son and daughter.  Thereafter, we returned back to have lunch around 1.30 P.M and were thereafter, picked up by Viru Negi ji for our afternoon safari at around 2.30 P.M, since the safari began at 3.00 P.M.  The Rajaji National Park is situated along the hills and foothills of Shiwalik ranges in the Himalayan foothills within the Shivalik biosphere.  Historically speaking, there used to be three separate wildlife sanctuaries namely – Rajaji Wildlife Sanctuary established in 1948; Moticur Wildlife Sanctuary established in 1964; and Chilla Wildlife Sanctuary established in 1977.  In the year 1983 all these three reserves were all combined to create one body named as the Rajaji National Park and in the year 2015 it received the status of a Tiger Reserve.  It is named after Sri C Rajagopalachari – the first Governor General of free India.  Spread across more than 800 Sq. Km., with altitude spanning from 330 to 1350 meters, it is a fairly large park that is adjacent to the holy cities of Hardwar, Rishikesh and Dehradun in Uttarakhand.  Chilla Reserve is situated next to the hydropower plant.  So one can see a branch of Ganga flowing here, with many seasonal rivers merging into it.   In fact, the GMVN guest house is located on a narrow strip of land where one such seasonal stream meets the Ganga.
A Golden backed woodpecker inside Chilla range
Terai like grasslands inside the Chilla range
Huge Sal trees and other trees inside the forest in Chilla range
A Back shouldered Kite inside the Chilla range
A Siberian stonechat inside Chilla range
A male Chital or Spotted deer inside Chilla range
        A small portion of the holy River Ganga flows for about 24 km within the park precincts. Other small seasonal rivers or rivulets join it at various places within the reserve forest.  However, we could only see some dry River beds across the reserve, through which our jeeps drove through during the safari.  The area is covered with diverse forest types ranging from semi-evergreen to deciduous and from mixed broad-leaved to terai like grassland and has been classified as Indus-Ganges Monsoon Forest type. Lofty strands of Sal dominate in many parts of this forest range giving it a surreal feeling, as the evenings set in. 
Pug mark of both Elephant and a leopard inside Chilla range
A watch tower inside the Chilla range
A Mountain Hawk Eagle inside the Chilla range
A juvenile Sambar male inside the Chilla range
A Sambar female inside Chilla range
           Rajaji is home to a plethora of avian species, which are found in forested foothills and in open grassland.   The location of this reserve forest being in a transition zone between temperate western Himalaya and central Himalaya enhances the species diversity and consequently the viewing prospects of a large number of birds that inhabit this broad spectrum. As per the official website, the Rajaji's checklist has about 400 bird species and includes good birds like Greater Scaup, White-naped Woodpecker, Great Hornbill, Black-bellied Tern, Pallas's Fish Eagle, Northern Goshawk, Black-necked Stork, Yellow-billed Blue Magpie, Scaly Thrush, Snowy-browed Flycatcher, Rusty-flanked Tree-creepers, Pale-footed Bush Warbler, Tytler's Leaf Warbler, Green Avadavat and Reed Bunting.  Apart from this, the National park is best known for is its elephants. I had always heard about herds of elephants roaming freely in the region that one can come across while driving through the forest, but it was not to be in our case. In fact, this is the identified North Western end of Elephant corridor in India. If you travel further North or West from here, you would not find any wild elephants.
A male Peacock inside Chilla range
A female Red Jungle fowl inside Chilla range
A White breasted Kingfisher inside Chilla range
A Woolly necked Stork inside Chilla range
Sambhar deer - both male & female inside Chilla range
        The safari charges are quite reasonable with a Jeep Safari of two and half hours duration costing around Rs.3,500/- with guide, but may vary from season to season.  As the winters had yet to pass and the weather was not very clear and being quite cold early in the morning, I preferred an afternoon safari.  The afternoon safari starts at about 3.00 P.M and ends at about 5.30 P.M and one can book it in advance or get one at the entry gate itself, if the rush is less.  I, on the other hand, was able to establish contact with one of the well-known guides operating in the Rajaji National Park and is quite well acquainted with all the portions of the park.  I had contacted him over phone and he was courteous enough to arrange for the entire safari for us and his name is Viru Negi (Mobile No.+91-9917606031).  He is a very nice person and anyone interested can contact him directly on this mobile.  The safari itself is better than that of Corbett in respect of time and distance covered, albeit there are fewer Tiger sightings in the region.  We got to see a lots of deer, birds including Jungle fowls and by the time as the evening set in, we could hear alarm calls of Langurs and Sambars, but could not sight any Tiger nor any Elephants to speak of.  By the time we were returning back, it had become literally cold and we were also famished, as the Park authorities do not allow any packed food items inside the park and rightly so.  The photographs shall speak for themselves about the trip and a short video of the safari inside the park for my viewers –
 © S. Roy Biswas     

Sunday, March 15, 2020

Uttarakhand medley – Almora & Pithoragarh


Uttarakhand medley – Almora & Pithoragarh
(All the blog links provided also contain short duration videos for the destination as well)

The panorama of Himalayan ranges as seen from Ranikhet
       In continuation of my earlier blogs that was published for promoting tourism in Nainital region, the present blog starts with the other part of Uttarakhand’s linguistically identified region i.e. Kumaon.  Kumaon region can further been identified as four distinct regions i.e. Nainital, Almora, Pithoragarh and Champawat.  The blog of the series highlights Almora and Pithoragarh alongwith places around it.  Here is the video that covers this region –


Almora
A view from Almora
The famed Jageshwar temple complex
A distant view of Katarmal Sun temple on hill side
Almora is the headquarters of the biggest district of the State and is a well-known destination of Uttarakhand, it is situated about 63 Kms. from Nainital.  Almora is situated on a ridge at the southern end of the Kumaon hills at an average elevation of 1861 meters.  The famous Almora bazar is saddled across this ridge that is appears like a saddle with two ends at Eastern and Western sides known as the Talifat and Salifat respectively.  Historically speaking, the Almora town is one of the oldest in the region that traces back its existence to 1568, as being established by Raja Kalyan Singh of Chand Dynasty and has been in existence in the present form since then, but its existence can be traced to pre-Mahabharata period also.  The town also symbolizes the cultural heritage of the Kumaon and accordingly has hosted various luminaries like Swami Vivekananda, Rabindranath Tagore etc. and was home to many other illustrious persons like Sumitra Nandan Pant (Poet), Gobind Ballabh Pant etc.  The town has many places of historical importance and other distinct identity of Almora is the Katarmal Sun temple.  There is also a very well-known Shiva temple complex in vicinity of Almora and here are the links to my blogs about them –


Apart from the above, there are other destinations that can be visited from Almora and some of them are as follows –

Binsar
View of Himalayan ranges from Binsar
Binsar was the summer capital of the Chand rulers and situated about 33 Kms from Almora at an elevation of 2412 meters.  In order to conserve the natural flora and fauna of this region, an area of about 45 sq. kms. was converted into a Wildlife reserve in 1988.  Here is the blog link for the destination –

Sitlakhet
View from Sitlakhet
Sitlakhet is a lesser known nondescript little destination of Almora district that is about 35 Kms. from Almora and 20 odd kms. from Ranikhet.  It is perched at an altitude of about 1900 meters and is a delight for nature lovers and trekkers.  Here is the link to my blog about this destination –

Ranikhet
Early morning view of Himalayan ranges from Ranikhet
Ranikhet or the Queens meadow is a charming little destination that offers outstanding views of the Himalayan ranges.  It is a well known Cantonment established by the British in 1869 as headquarters of the famed Kumaon regiment and at present also acts as the headquarters for the equally famous Naga regiment.  It has a salubrious climate all through the year and a nature lover’s delight.  Perched at an altitude of 1869 meters, it is an immensely popular summer destination.  Here are the links to my blogs about this destination –

Dunagiri & Dwarhat
The famed Dunagiri temple
The Dwarhat region is a conglomeration of 116 villages and is situated at a distance of about 73 kms. from Almora and about 33 kms. from Ranikhet.  It houses an old 11th Century old temple complex and is more well known for the famed ancient temple of Dunagiri situated about 14 Kms. from Dwarhat and is perched at an altitude of about 2400 meters.  Here is the link to my blog about the destination –

Pithoragarh
Pithoragarh is the easternmost district of the Kumaon region and borders Nepal and China (Tibet).  This region is replete with various glaciers that are ideal trekking destinations for the adventure loving tourists.  Apart from this, there are several hill stations that offer spectacular views of the Himalayan ranges, being present within the district precincts.  There are several valleys and bugyals that offer moderate treks and resplendent views of Himalayas as well as rich flora & fauna for the nature lovers.  The most well known destination in this district is Munsiyari and on our way from Almora, the first destination that is worth mentioning is Chaukori.

Chaukori
View of the TRH, KMVN in Chaukori
Chaukori is a small village, but an amazing destination with the Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam offering good accommodation and views from its property situated here.  It is about 115 kms. from Almora via Bageshwar and one can throw in a night’s stay in Kausani (in Bageshwar district) while travelling to this destination.  The destination offers a splendour of colours during the sunrise and sunsets over the Himalayan ranges from this destination.  It has also some old tea gardens situated within its precincts.  Perched at an altitude of 2010 meters, this idyllic destinations offers a few nights of relief to tourists from the plains below during the hot summer months, with a few temple destinations around it.  Here is link to my blog about the destination –

Berinag
The Naga temple in Berinag
Situated at a distance of about 15 kms. from Chaukori is the temple town of Berinag, perched at an altitude of 1869 meters and is home to the famous  and ancient Nag (Snake) temple, which is reverend by the locals.  Here is the link to the blog about this destination –

Munsiyari
View of Rajrambha peak as seen from Munsiyari

Sunset view of Panchachuli from Munsiyari
 Munsiyari in local dialect means ‘place with snow’ and as the name suggests it is one of the most resplendent hill stations of Kumaon region.  Perched at an altitude of 2298 meters, it offers spectacular views of the Panchachuli ranges alongwith being an launching pad for the Milam, Namik and Relam glacier treks in Nanda Devi Biosphere reserve.  It is a must visit destination for the avid nature lovers.  Here is the link to my blog about the destination –

Pithoragarh -
Pithoragarph township (photo sourced from Widipedia)
It is the district headquarters of the district that goes by the same name.  Perched in a valley at an altitude of 1541 meters with air connectivity, it is known as the Soar valley or at times as the little Kashmir.  It has historical antecedents and is home to some old temples and a quaint destination to be enjoyed throughout the year, although air connectivity remains suspended during the winters.  Here is a short blog about the destination –

Note – Although all the blogs are relatively old, but the geographic locations as well as the information about the destinations remain unchanged and hence can be referred to for that purpose.

© S Roy Biswas





Saturday, February 22, 2020

Uttarakhand medley – Nainital & around


Uttarakhand medley – Nainital & around
  
The famed Naini lake of Nainital
In continuation of my earlier blogs that was published for promoting tourism in Garhwal region, the present blog starts with the other part of Uttarakhand’s linguistically identified region i.e. Kumaon.  Kumaon region can further been identified as four distinct regions i.e. Nainital, Almora, Pithoragarh and Champawat.  The first blog of the series will start with Nainital and places around it  Here is the video that covers this region –

  
Nainital
Nainital is the most well-known destination of Uttarakhand and is also the district Headquarters that goes by the same name.  Nainital is also known as the ‘Lake district of the State’, as this district has many small and big lakes scattered all around.  The entry to Kumaon region is through Haldwani or Kathgodam, which is the last rail head.  From Kathgodam the journey for Kumaon region commences and the most famous destination in this circuit is Nainital.  Nainital, named as the place where the ‘eyes’ (Naina) of ‘Sati’ fell here and is revered as one of the 64 ‘Shakti Peeths’, is the most famous destination in the Kumaon region.  The lake is about 1.3 kms. long and about 0.5 kms. in breadth, while the northern end of the lake is called the ‘Mallital’ and the southern tip as ‘Tallital’.  The lake is situated at an altitude of 1940 meters and is surrounded by many peaks, some of which tower over 8,000 feet i.e. China Peak.  It is a destination enjoyed by tourists, both during summers and winters equally.  Apart from Nainital, there are other equally enthralling destinations having lakes around Nainital and easily accessible from Nainital during a day tour and to name a few (ascending order of distance from Nainital) –

Sattal – This destination as the name depicts, is a conglomeration of seven lakes and is also perched at around an altitude of 1300 odd meters.  This destination is enjoyed by tourists for boating and is a much sought after destination for ‘Birders’, as it offers sighting of plethora of birds;
A view of the Sattal lake
Bhimtal - This quaint little township perched at an elevation of 1370 meters, houses the biggest lake of the region and accordingly named Bhimtal.  It is an enjoyable destination that offers facilities of boating and fishing;
View of Bhimtal lake
 Naukuchiatal – As the name suggests, the lake in this destination is ‘nine cornered’ one and perched at an elevation of 1220 meters.  It is the deepest lake in the region at is about 175 feet deep and tourists can enjoy boating, angling and bird watching in the destination.
 
The Naukuchia lake
Here is the link to my blog encompassing all these destinations –

Panghoot
View of Panghoot or Pangot
Also known as Pangot, this destination is a sublime one, away from hustle and bustle of Nainital and a drive of 13 Kms. from the township.  Perched at an elevation of 6,510 feet, this quaint little village destination is a must visit for avid bird watchers, as about 580 bird species have been identified visiting this area.  Here is the link to the blog for the destination - https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2012/09/walking-through-clouds-panghoot-around.html

Mukteshwar
Mukteshwar - the house where Jim Corbett used to stay during summers
This township is about 51 Kms. from Nainital and perched at an elevation of 2171 meters i.e. about 7500 feet, this destination is named after the 350 years old Shiva temple situated here.  This destination offers fantastic views of sunrise and sunset alongwith sporting activities like rappelling etc., to add to the charm of this destination.  It is a must visit destination for nature lovers and those who enjoy the splendour of the hills.  Here is the link to the blog about this destination -  https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/kumaon-mukteshwar-view-of-sitla-from.html

Kainchi Dham
The famed Kainchi dham temple
Kainchi is a beautiful ashram located in secluded mountain of the Kumoan Hills in Uttarakand. The temple was first inaugurated in June 1964. It is approximately 38 km from Nainital. Many hundreds of people visit the temples here every day, during the season.  It was some time in 1962 when Maharajji called for Shri Poornanand of Kainchi village while he himself waited sitting on parapet wall by the road side near Kainchi. When he came, they refreshed the memories of their first meeting which they had 20 years back in 1942. They discussed about the place around. Maharajji wanted to see the place where Sadhu Premi Baba and Sombari Maharaj had lived and performed Yagyas. The forest was cleared and Maharajji asked for the construction of a Chabootara (rectangular platform) covering the Yagyashala. Maharajji contacted the then "conservator of forests" and took possession of the requisite land on lease.  The Hanuman temple is built over the platform mentioned above. His devotees started coming from different places and a chain of bhandaras, kirtans, bhajans started. The Pran-Pratishtha of idols of Hanumanji and others was performed on 15th June in different years. Thus, 15th June is celebrated every year as Pratishtha Divas Each year, during the famous June 15th bhandara.  The place is of international repute boasting of followers like Steve Job & Mark Zuckerberg.

© S Roy Biswas