Uttarakhand medley – Almora & Pithoragarh

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Uttarakhand medley – Almora & Pithoragarh

(All the blog links provided also contain short duration videos for the destination as well)

The panorama of Himalayan ranges as seen from Ranikhet

       In continuation of my earlier blogs that was published for promoting tourism in Nainital region, the present blog starts with the other part of Uttarakhand’s linguistically identified region i.e. Kumaon.  Kumaon region can further been identified as four distinct regions i.e. Nainital, Almora, Pithoragarh and Champawat.  The blog of the series highlights Almora and Pithoragarh alongwith places around it.  Here is the video that covers this region –

Almora

A view from Almora

The famed Jageshwar temple complex

A distant view of Katarmal Sun temple on hill side

Almora is the headquarters of the biggest district of the State and is a well-known destination of Uttarakhand, it is situated about 63 Kms. from Nainital.  Almora is situated on a ridge at the southern end of the Kumaon hills at an average elevation of 1861 meters.  The famous Almora bazar is saddled across this ridge that is appears like a saddle with two ends at Eastern and Western sides known as the Talifat and Salifat respectively.  Historically speaking, the Almora town is one of the oldest in the region that traces back its existence to 1568, as being established by Raja Kalyan Singh of Chand Dynasty and has been in existence in the present form since then, but its existence can be traced to pre-Mahabharata period also.  The town also symbolizes the cultural heritage of the Kumaon and accordingly has hosted various luminaries like Swami Vivekananda, Rabindranath Tagore etc. and was home to many other illustrious persons like Sumitra Nandan Pant (Poet), Gobind Ballabh Pant etc.  The town has many places of historical importance and other distinct identity of Almora is the Katarmal Sun temple.  There is also a very well-known Shiva temple complex in vicinity of Almora and here are the links to my blogs about them –

i)                   https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/almora-visiting-jageshwar-katarmal.html

ii)                 https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2013/12/revisiting-almora-ranikhet-photo-blog.html

iii)              http://shantanuroybiswas.blogspot.com/2016/09/divinity-of-jageshwar-dham.html

Apart from the above, there are other destinations that can be visited from Almora and some of them are as follows –

Binsar

View of Himalayan ranges from Binsar

Binsar was the summer capital of the Chand rulers and situated about 33 Kms from Almora at an elevation of 2412 meters.  In order to conserve the natural flora and fauna of this region, an area of about 45 sq. kms. was converted into a Wildlife reserve in 1988.  Here is the blog link for the destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/kumaon-binsar-v-iew-of-cloud-covered.html

Sitlakhet

View from Sitlakhet

Sitlakhet is a lesser known nondescript little destination of Almora district that is about 35 Kms. from Almora and 20 odd kms. from Ranikhet.  It is perched at an altitude of about 1900 meters and is a delight for nature lovers and trekkers.  Here is the link to my blog about this destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2017/03/sitlakhet-destination-of-snow-solitude.html

Ranikhet

Early morning view of Himalayan ranges from Ranikhet

Ranikhet or the Queens meadow is a charming little destination that offers outstanding views of the Himalayan ranges.  It is a well known Cantonment established by the British in 1869 as headquarters of the famed Kumaon regiment and at present also acts as the headquarters for the equally famous Naga regiment.  It has a salubrious climate all through the year and a nature lover’s delight.  Perched at an altitude of 1869 meters, it is an immensely popular summer destination.  Here are the links to my blogs about this destination –

i)                   https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2012/04/ranikhet-queens-meadow-photo-essay.html

ii)                 https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2013/03/ranikhet-meadow-of-queen-revisited.html

iii)              https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2019/02/monsoons-in-kumaon-pictorial-display-of.html

Dunagiri & Dwarhat

The famed Dunagiri temple

The Dwarhat region is a conglomeration of 116 villages and is situated at a distance of about 73 kms. from Almora and about 33 kms. from Ranikhet.  It houses an old 11^th Century old temple complex and is more well known for the famed ancient temple of Dunagiri situated about 14 Kms. from Dwarhat and is perched at an altitude of about 2400 meters.  Here is the link to my blog about the destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2013/02/visiting-dunagiri-dwarhat.html

Pithoragarh

Pithoragarh is the easternmost district of the Kumaon region and borders Nepal and China (Tibet).  This region is replete with various glaciers that are ideal trekking destinations for the adventure loving tourists.  Apart from this, there are several hill stations that offer spectacular views of the Himalayan ranges, being present within the district precincts.  There are several valleys and bugyals that offer moderate treks and resplendent views of Himalayas as well as rich flora & fauna for the nature lovers.  The most well known destination in this district is Munsiyari and on our way from Almora, the first destination that is worth mentioning is Chaukori.

Chaukori –

View of the TRH, KMVN in Chaukori

Chaukori is a small village, but an amazing destination with the Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam offering good accommodation and views from its property situated here.  It is about 115 kms. from Almora via Bageshwar and one can throw in a night’s stay in Kausani (in Bageshwar district) while travelling to this destination.  The destination offers a splendour of colours during the sunrise and sunsets over the Himalayan ranges from this destination.  It has also some old tea gardens situated within its precincts.  Perched at an altitude of 2010 meters, this idyllic destinations offers a few nights of relief to tourists from the plains below during the hot summer months, with a few temple destinations around it.  Here is link to my blog about the destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/kumaon-chaukori-view-of-himalayan.html

Berinag –

The Naga temple in Berinag

Situated at a distance of about 15 kms. from Chaukori is the temple town of Berinag, perched at an altitude of 1869 meters and is home to the famous  and ancient Nag (Snake) temple, which is reverend by the locals.  Here is the link to the blog about this destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/kumaon-traveling-from-chaukori-to.html

Munsiyari –

View of Rajrambha peak as seen from Munsiyari

Sunset view of Panchachuli from Munsiyari

 Munsiyari in local dialect means ‘place with snow’ and as the name suggests it is one of the most resplendent hill stations of Kumaon region.  Perched at an altitude of 2298 meters, it offers spectacular views of the Panchachuli ranges alongwith being an launching pad for the Milam, Namik and Relam glacier treks in Nanda Devi Biosphere reserve.  It is a must visit destination for the avid nature lovers.  Here is the link to my blog about the destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/kumaon-munshiyari-view-of-rajrambha.html

Pithoragarh -

Pithoragarph township (photo sourced from Widipedia)

It is the district headquarters of the district that goes by the same name.  Perched in a valley at an altitude of 1541 meters with air connectivity, it is known as the Soar valley or at times as the little Kashmir.  It has historical antecedents and is home to some old temples and a quaint destination to be enjoyed throughout the year, although air connectivity remains suspended during the winters.  Here is a short blog about the destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/pithoragarh-little-kashmir.html

Note – Although all the blogs are relatively old, but the geographic locations as well as the information about the destinations remain unchanged and hence can be referred to for that purpose.

© S Roy Biswas

Visiting Dunagiri & Dwarhat

Visiting Dunagiri & Dwarhat

Panoramic view of the Dwarhat township

Farming by the Gagas River 

       The next day was earmarked for visiting Dwarhat and Dunagiri temples and accordingly, we started off at around 10.30 A.M. from Chilyanaula in a local TATA Sumo hired from its owner and driver, Sh. Manohar Kumar (Mobile No.08006664473), whom I found to be a quiet and decent person.  Dwarahat is situated in Almora district of Uttarakhand, 37 kms from Ranikhet and 41 Kms. from Chilyanaula, however, the road conditions are very bad at certain stretches.  Dwarhat is popular for its group of 55 ancient temples.  It is quite a small township placed at the centre of the road from Ranikhet and Garsian, at the intersection of Ranikhet - Kausani road and Almora – Badrinath road.  The township rests of the banks of the Gagas River that emanates from the holy Dunagiri Mountain.  As the name suggests, Dwarahat means way of Heaven where Dwara means ‘way’ and Hat means ‘Heaven’.  The Katyuri and Chand dynasties glorified the region by constructing some fine temples - now renowned throughout the country. Though largely a Shaivite region, the presiding deity, Nanda Devi, is amongst the most exalted in Kumaon. 

Temple ruins in Dwarhat

The Ratandeo group of temples - Dwarhat

The Mritunjay group of temples

Sitla mata temple - Dwarhat

         At first sight, Dwarahat appears to be like any other nondescript little sleepy mountain township one has seen. The gradually rolling slopes are covered with Cedar and Pine trees and the township is almost on flat grounds at certain spots. All is quiet in the cold, crisp air, but for the occasional screeching of truck brakes in the distance, as you approach the township.  Just before you enter the main township area you are greeted by the enormous spread of pink colored buildings, belonging to the Government Engineering College, Dwarhat.  In the centre of the town, roller-coaster roads snake up and down around a crowded market, at the centre of which, is a small town centre, wherefrom the roads lead towards the local Post Office and Police Station et al.  Explore a little distance away from the bustle, up a concrete trail, past the backyards of houses, and one will see something quite different.  Hidden amongst the village houses, both old and new, clusters of ancient temples with exquisite carved friezes dating back to between the 8th and 11th centuries, takes one’s breathe away. Some of them have collapsed, whereas in the others, the giant carved stone blocks threaten to roll to the ground. Others have towering temple tops/shikhars frequented solely by animals of flying kind. Although these temples have been declared as protected monuments by the ASI, they are all but abandoned and appreciated solely by an occasional crazy traveler like me.  There are 55 ancient temples that can be divided into eight distinct groups like the Ratandeo group, Mritunjay group, Badrinath group etc. These ancient temples were constructed mainly by the Katyuri Kings and its architecture resembles the Gurjari School of Art.  Dwarahat also has several temples devoted to the Shakti cult also. Near the bus stand are the ruins of the ancient Syaldeh Pokhar (Syaldeh pond). An ancient temple of Shitala Devi is located here which dates to 1257 CE. A very famous folk-fair of Kumaon called “Syaldeh Bikhoti” fair is held annually near Syaldeh Pokhar at the beginning of new solar year (Vaisakhi or Baisakhi). There are also temples of “Kotkangra Devi” and Kalika Devi in the near vicinity.  It is said that these temples were destroyed by the Rohillas (Ruhelas), who had attacked this part of the Kumaon and since these temples were abandoned and have fallen to ruins.

The reverend 'Maa Dunagiri temple'

      Maa Dunagiri temple located at a distance of 14 kms from Dwarahat. A temple dedicated to Vaishno Devi is adorned by the locales in Dunagiri. Many myths bear testimony to this fact, according to which when Hanuman was carrying the Sanjivani buti (literal meaning – life providing herb), a piece fell here and since then a lot of beneficial & medicinal herbs are found here, this place is known as Dunagiri since times immemorial.   Dunagiri commands an imposing view of the Himalayan Ranges on one side and the Dwarhat township, on banks of Gagas River on the other side. Dunagiri is flooded by tourists and devotees during Chait (April) and Ashwin (September/October) months of Navratras.  There is a huge mela (fair) and congregation of thousands of devotees, thronging the temple precincts during the Navratris.  During the festivities, each night of the Navratri is dedicated to the nine different forms of Goddess Durga. They are Maa Shailputri, Maa Brahmachaarin, Maa Chandraghanta, Maa Kushmaanda, Skand Maa, Maa Kaatyayini, Maa Kaalratri, Maa Chaamunda, and Mata Sidhidaarti.  To reach the Durga temple or Paban Maharaj Ashram from the highway, one has to climb 400 steps on the top of a hill.

Up on top of the 400 stairs - on way to Dunagiri temple

       Dunagiri mountain is said to have been the group of mountains brought by Pavandavas of Mahabharata fame during their Agayat vas (days of banishment from their Kingdom).   Most temples and holy places in India, accrue higher respect & divinity as per the age of the shrine, the older they are, the more reverend are they.   For instance the 3000 year old temple of Kanyakumari may be deemed more potent than a 300 year old temple.  At Dunagiri, it is not in years, centuries nor even millennia that the antiquity of this place is calculated in, but rather in terms of Yugas! A place where mysticism abounds, fascinating legends and numerous mystic stories are intimately connected to Dunagiri.  From the ancient times, places such Drongiri (Dunagiri), Badrinath, Kedarnath have been known as Soul of Gods (Devatma) Himalaya, since these places are also the meditation spots (asanpeeth and sadhna-sthali) of many realized souls.  Dunagiri or Drongiri is counted amongst one of the seven Kulparvats of the Purans. As this destination is replete with association of Ascetics and Saints over eons, just by visiting such a reverend destination, one imbues some of the blessings and spiritual vibrations of the “realized souls”.

Saints live and meditate here in the hallowed environs of Dunagiri

      Dunagiri hill is the shrine or seat of Sri Sri Vaishnavi Mata Bhagvati Jagdamba.  Sri Sri Vaishnavi Mata is the presiding form of Divine Mother among the other forms worshiped in the Valley.  Dunagiri finds mention in the holy scripture of Manaskhand of Skandpuran.   Mother Goddess at Dunagiri is described as Mahamaya Harpriya. The distinctive qualities of Durga at Dunagiri as shul-hasta, mahishasur-ghatini, sinh-vahini are described in the Manaskhand.  Dunagiri Devi is also referred to as Vahyamati which identifies it with its Vedic roots. In Vedic times Durga was known to be a form of Agni.  Till today, there are only two Vaishnavi Shaktipeeths (energy centers) in India.   One is in Jammu, the famed Vaishno Devi Shrine near Katra and the other is the Vaishnavi Devi temple at Dunagiri.  Among all the Shakti temples of Kumaon, Dunagiri is counted amid the most ancient ‘Sidh Shaktipeeth’.  It is counted amongst the primary ‘ugra’ (intense) ‘peeths’, i.e., amongst the primary intense centers of energy, although it is not associated with the 51 Shakti Peethas of the Shiva tandava scriptures and thus, is also known as the Gupt (Hidden) Shakti Peeth. Photographing the actual deity is strictly forbidden and hence no photographs of the same.

Entry gate to the temple of Dunagiri

      Of the eighteen Upanishads that the holy scriptures of Hindu religion, the Shwetashwet upanishad is believed to have been inspired & composed solely at Dunagiri. Fourth chapter of Shwetashwet upanishad ponders over divinity in context of duality of Purush and Prakriti, taking inspiration from Dunagiri’s twin natural peaks (one can see these twin rock pieces inside Dunagiri temple). Hence Manaskhand of Skandpuran bestows Dunagiri with the title of Brahm-parvat (Divine Mountain).

The temple of Ma Dunagiri

     As the place is in existence since times immemorial, it has had several incarnations of Goddesses over the Yugas, starting from the Satya Yuga wherein Bhairavi, the consort of Bhairav or Lord Shiva himself, turns into Vaishnavi Mata. Bhairavi, the Divine Mother of Tantra at the last stage, turns into Vaishnavi Mata while awarding liberation to her devotees, because only in the form of Vaishnavi does she award liberation.  During the Treta Yuga,  Dunagiri finds mention in the story of Ramayana as being the hill where Sanjeevani booti was obtained by Lord Hanuman to revive an unconscious Lakshman in battle of Lanka. Hanuman is often depicted flying through the sky carrying part of a hill. This hill is Dunagiri. Lord Ram’s younger brother, Bharat, also meditated at a hill overlooking Dunagiri. This hilll, still named after him, is now known as Bhatkot (originally Bharat-kot).  During the Dwapara Yuga, Sages are said to have come to the hills of Dunagiri to meditate in solitude. These sages are mentioned in the epic Mahābhārata.  Sage Bharatmuni renounced worldly life and came to Dunagiri to meditate. Dronacharya, the royal guru to Pandavas and Kauravas meditated at Dunagiri (Dunagiri or Drongiri is named after Dronacharya).  Dronacharya’s brother, Garg muni, one of the greatest sages of the Puranic times, also meditated at Dunagiri.  The River Gagas that originates at Dunagiri is named after Garga muni. Dronacharya and Garga were sons of Rishi Bharadwaja, one of the Saptarishis (Seven Great Sages) of this epoch. Sage Sukhdev muni (son of sage Ved Vyasa, the author of Mahabharata) meditated at Dunagiri.  Shakuntala and Dushyant’s son,  king Bharat after whom India is named as “Bharatvarsh” was born at Dunagiri.   Pandava’s too spent time here during their period of anonymous exile and their abode, now known as “Pandukholi”, which is further 5 Kms. ahead on road to Almora, but was not visited by me.

Mesmerizing views from Dunagiri temple

       In more recent times, Dunagiri was the spot chosen by Mahavatar Babaji (who is conjured as manifestation in form of Haidakhan wale Babaji – as referred to in my previous blog) to give Kriya Yoga initiation to Lahiri Mahashaya, hence Dunagiri in known as the birthplace of Kriya Yoga.  A golden palace was materialized here, as mentioned in the book Autobiography of a Yogi by Yogananda Paramhansa.  It is also at Dunagiri that Mahavatar Babaji is said to have given initiation to Haidakhan baba in Manas Yog, to Neem Karoli baba in Mantra yoga, and to Sombari baba in Pashupat yoga. Other saints who meditated at Dunagiri are: Harnarayan Swami, Ram Baba, Mahatama Laxminarayan Das, Nantin Baba, Mahant Balwant Giri, MK Bhattacharya, Swami Satyaeshwarnananda Giri.

The Gagas River that emanates from Dunagiri

      Although I have not been able to visit the reverend shrine of Mata Vaishno Devi in Jammu, this chance pilgrimage to such a holy place has in all probability absolved me of my earthly sins.  We were in time to partake the langar (community lunch) at the temple precincts, the scenic & religious images of this famed temple shall remain ever etched in my memory.  Thus, I dedicate this travel-blog to many an unread like me, who had no idea about the spiritual relevance of this destination and may this humble contribution from me enlighten many a unread souls like me, Jai Maa Vaishno Devi.

Here is a video of the destination