Uttarakhand medley – Almora & Pithoragarh

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Uttarakhand medley – Almora & Pithoragarh

(All the blog links provided also contain short duration videos for the destination as well)

The panorama of Himalayan ranges as seen from Ranikhet

       In continuation of my earlier blogs that was published for promoting tourism in Nainital region, the present blog starts with the other part of Uttarakhand’s linguistically identified region i.e. Kumaon.  Kumaon region can further been identified as four distinct regions i.e. Nainital, Almora, Pithoragarh and Champawat.  The blog of the series highlights Almora and Pithoragarh alongwith places around it.  Here is the video that covers this region –

Almora

A view from Almora

The famed Jageshwar temple complex

A distant view of Katarmal Sun temple on hill side

Almora is the headquarters of the biggest district of the State and is a well-known destination of Uttarakhand, it is situated about 63 Kms. from Nainital.  Almora is situated on a ridge at the southern end of the Kumaon hills at an average elevation of 1861 meters.  The famous Almora bazar is saddled across this ridge that is appears like a saddle with two ends at Eastern and Western sides known as the Talifat and Salifat respectively.  Historically speaking, the Almora town is one of the oldest in the region that traces back its existence to 1568, as being established by Raja Kalyan Singh of Chand Dynasty and has been in existence in the present form since then, but its existence can be traced to pre-Mahabharata period also.  The town also symbolizes the cultural heritage of the Kumaon and accordingly has hosted various luminaries like Swami Vivekananda, Rabindranath Tagore etc. and was home to many other illustrious persons like Sumitra Nandan Pant (Poet), Gobind Ballabh Pant etc.  The town has many places of historical importance and other distinct identity of Almora is the Katarmal Sun temple.  There is also a very well-known Shiva temple complex in vicinity of Almora and here are the links to my blogs about them –

i)                   https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/almora-visiting-jageshwar-katarmal.html

ii)                 https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2013/12/revisiting-almora-ranikhet-photo-blog.html

iii)              http://shantanuroybiswas.blogspot.com/2016/09/divinity-of-jageshwar-dham.html

Apart from the above, there are other destinations that can be visited from Almora and some of them are as follows –

Binsar

View of Himalayan ranges from Binsar

Binsar was the summer capital of the Chand rulers and situated about 33 Kms from Almora at an elevation of 2412 meters.  In order to conserve the natural flora and fauna of this region, an area of about 45 sq. kms. was converted into a Wildlife reserve in 1988.  Here is the blog link for the destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/kumaon-binsar-v-iew-of-cloud-covered.html

Sitlakhet

View from Sitlakhet

Sitlakhet is a lesser known nondescript little destination of Almora district that is about 35 Kms. from Almora and 20 odd kms. from Ranikhet.  It is perched at an altitude of about 1900 meters and is a delight for nature lovers and trekkers.  Here is the link to my blog about this destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2017/03/sitlakhet-destination-of-snow-solitude.html

Ranikhet

Early morning view of Himalayan ranges from Ranikhet

Ranikhet or the Queens meadow is a charming little destination that offers outstanding views of the Himalayan ranges.  It is a well known Cantonment established by the British in 1869 as headquarters of the famed Kumaon regiment and at present also acts as the headquarters for the equally famous Naga regiment.  It has a salubrious climate all through the year and a nature lover’s delight.  Perched at an altitude of 1869 meters, it is an immensely popular summer destination.  Here are the links to my blogs about this destination –

i)                   https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2012/04/ranikhet-queens-meadow-photo-essay.html

ii)                 https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2013/03/ranikhet-meadow-of-queen-revisited.html

iii)              https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2019/02/monsoons-in-kumaon-pictorial-display-of.html

Dunagiri & Dwarhat

The famed Dunagiri temple

The Dwarhat region is a conglomeration of 116 villages and is situated at a distance of about 73 kms. from Almora and about 33 kms. from Ranikhet.  It houses an old 11^th Century old temple complex and is more well known for the famed ancient temple of Dunagiri situated about 14 Kms. from Dwarhat and is perched at an altitude of about 2400 meters.  Here is the link to my blog about the destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2013/02/visiting-dunagiri-dwarhat.html

Pithoragarh

Pithoragarh is the easternmost district of the Kumaon region and borders Nepal and China (Tibet).  This region is replete with various glaciers that are ideal trekking destinations for the adventure loving tourists.  Apart from this, there are several hill stations that offer spectacular views of the Himalayan ranges, being present within the district precincts.  There are several valleys and bugyals that offer moderate treks and resplendent views of Himalayas as well as rich flora & fauna for the nature lovers.  The most well known destination in this district is Munsiyari and on our way from Almora, the first destination that is worth mentioning is Chaukori.

Chaukori –

View of the TRH, KMVN in Chaukori

Chaukori is a small village, but an amazing destination with the Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam offering good accommodation and views from its property situated here.  It is about 115 kms. from Almora via Bageshwar and one can throw in a night’s stay in Kausani (in Bageshwar district) while travelling to this destination.  The destination offers a splendour of colours during the sunrise and sunsets over the Himalayan ranges from this destination.  It has also some old tea gardens situated within its precincts.  Perched at an altitude of 2010 meters, this idyllic destinations offers a few nights of relief to tourists from the plains below during the hot summer months, with a few temple destinations around it.  Here is link to my blog about the destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/kumaon-chaukori-view-of-himalayan.html

Berinag –

The Naga temple in Berinag

Situated at a distance of about 15 kms. from Chaukori is the temple town of Berinag, perched at an altitude of 1869 meters and is home to the famous  and ancient Nag (Snake) temple, which is reverend by the locals.  Here is the link to the blog about this destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/kumaon-traveling-from-chaukori-to.html

Munsiyari –

View of Rajrambha peak as seen from Munsiyari

Sunset view of Panchachuli from Munsiyari

 Munsiyari in local dialect means ‘place with snow’ and as the name suggests it is one of the most resplendent hill stations of Kumaon region.  Perched at an altitude of 2298 meters, it offers spectacular views of the Panchachuli ranges alongwith being an launching pad for the Milam, Namik and Relam glacier treks in Nanda Devi Biosphere reserve.  It is a must visit destination for the avid nature lovers.  Here is the link to my blog about the destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/kumaon-munshiyari-view-of-rajrambha.html

Pithoragarh -

Pithoragarph township (photo sourced from Widipedia)

It is the district headquarters of the district that goes by the same name.  Perched in a valley at an altitude of 1541 meters with air connectivity, it is known as the Soar valley or at times as the little Kashmir.  It has historical antecedents and is home to some old temples and a quaint destination to be enjoyed throughout the year, although air connectivity remains suspended during the winters.  Here is a short blog about the destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/pithoragarh-little-kashmir.html

Note – Although all the blogs are relatively old, but the geographic locations as well as the information about the destinations remain unchanged and hence can be referred to for that purpose.

© S Roy Biswas

Sitlakhet – a destination of snow & solitude

Sitlakhet – a destination of snow & solitude

Snowfall at Sitlakhet

The name ‘Sitla’ in Hindi means ‘Cool’ and ‘khet’ is ‘farm land’, so the trans-literation of name would be ‘Cool farm land’ or more appropriate would be ‘farms in cool climes’ and during my recent visit I found that it does fits its literal translation.  Sitlakhet is an unspoiled nature’s treasure trove nestled on the lap of a hill, the top of which is occupied by the famed Shyahi Devi temple, overlooking the valleys below it and bestowing it with a nature’s gift unparalleled in the annals.  Perched at an altitude of 1785 meters i.e. the exact elevation of the Tourist Rest House or TRH for short at Sitlakhet, managed by KMVN, which translates to around 6000 feet above MSL (Mean Sea Level).  However, the famed Syahi Devi temple would easily be touching 7000 feet above MSL.  If you search the net for the destination, it would throw up results in name of ‘Anant Rasa’, a resort being run by the famed photographer from Nainital, Sh. Anup Shah.  The place also houses a camping site run by the ‘Discovery Channel’.  The entire verdant valley is cocooned in dense forest of Oaks, Silver birch, pines et al and is nature’s treasure trove in all its splendour. 

Taking a selfie en-route at Mukteshwar

The small market of Sitlakhet

Tourist Rest House run by KMVN at Sitlakhet

            We had started from Padampuri late in the afternoon, as the train was delayed and we had taken a break to have some snacks etc. as detailed in my previous blog.  We headed on the road towards Dhanachuli, but just before reaching Dhari, the driver took a detour through a village road and he took the diversion at Boranshi, being a short cut that runs through small hamlet named Chaukhuta and reaches Kasiyalekh and therefrom through Gangachor to the junction called Bhatelia.  From Bhatelia the road leads towards Mukteshwar and this distance is about 20 odd Kms.  The weather had turned inclement as we commenced with our journey from Padampuri and by the time we approached Mukteshwar, it had started snowing and the children got excited and alighted from the Car at the forest checkpoint to click a few photographs.  The road distance from Mukteshwar to Almora is about 32 Kms. via Sheetla – Khawarbpul.  Having gone past Almora, we headed downstream towards Kosi, a further distance of 10 Kms. and therefrom having crossed the bridge, we headed towards the road leading past the ITBP Camp and the barrage built on Kosi River for supplying drinking water to residents of Almora.  After having gone past a small hamlet named Deoli we reached another nondescript little village named Kharkuna wherefrom the road bifurcates and the straight one towards the right hand side leads on towards Dhali and onwards to Sitlakhet, the total distance being about 27 Kms. from Kosi bridge.  Thus, it was a long haul of almost 80 Kms. that took about three & half hours’ drive because of the weather & road conditions.  As it was getting late, I decided to explore availability of boarding in the TRH and got one as it was in the middle of the week and it usually gets its guests on weekends.

Snow on a tuft of grass

As it snowed intermittently from the evening in Sitlakhet 

The morning after the snow fall in Sitlaket

The author out for a shoot 

            After having checked into the four bedded room, we ordered for some bread pakoras and coffee and as the evening started setting in, the cook Ganesh asked for the dinner order, as the TRH is at an isolated location and Sitlakhet itself is a very small hamlet and thus, in order to procure non-vegetarian or any specific vegetarian food, one has to book well in advance, so that the procurement may be done from either Kathpuriya, Majhkhali or Ranikhet.  Accordingly, we placed our orders and just as we had started enjoying Pakoras & Coffee it started snowing at Sitlakhet.  As the evening slowly merged into the night, the intensity of the snowfall increased with every passing minute, but the children were enjoying the experience immensely.  News came in late in the evening that the person entrusted with the job of procuring our order from the nearby road head was struck in the snow and thus, the order may have to be revised.  The staff of three that runs the TRH had lighted a small bonfire to keep themselves warm and as the electricity got disconnected due to the snowfall, we made a beeline for the space behind the kitchen where the fire wood had been lit, to keep ourselves warm.  However, at around 8.00 P.M some good news poured in that the person assigned the task of procuring Chicken had finally made it to the TRH and we could therefore, relish our next order of hot Chicken soup, that was prepared quickly and served piping hot and for dinner we got served ‘Garlic Chicken’ preparation with rotis/hand baked breads.  The cook Ganesh has some exceptional culinary skills and enjoys his work, which in turn results in some lip-smacking snacks and/or main course meals.

The Shahi Devi temple complex at Sitlakhet

Close up of the Himalayan ranges as seen from Sitlakhet

Panoramic view of the Himalayan ranges as seen from Sitlakhet

Panoramic view of Almora from Sitlakeht

        Bereft of electricity and with a solitary candle light flickering in one corner of the room, we all retired for the night in the cold climes of Sitlakhet and being tired over the day’s journey, all of us fell asleep quickly.  I was the first one to wake up in the morning and immediately peaked outside, although the sunlight was all around, yet the sunlight was only filtering through in patches, as the clouds were in motion in the deep blue sky above.  I got up quickly, completed the morning ablutions and moved out to get some shots with my camera.   As the cloud cover became thinner with passage of the day, by 9.00 A.M. a lot of birds started chirping all around and I had a fabulous time shooting to my heart’s content.   Later in the morning I moved towards the market and headed towards the Shyahi Devi temple.  However, the road that leads to the temple top is neither paved with concrete nor is its surface tarred and hence the vehicles run only for the first half of the journey of three Kms. i.e. one & half kilometres and the remaining half has to be completed on foot by trekking.  Due to the snowfall the vehicles too were not plying or going up the trail and it was not possible to trek up to the temple in the slushy & snowy conditions and therefore, I had to give up any hope of making it to the temple top, however, for the benefit of the readers I am providing with a link to the photographs of the temple - http://wikimapia.org/18958637/Siyahi-Devi-Man.

Himalayan Yellow finch enjoying the Sun after nights snowfall

Return of the Himalayan Griffon - flying high in Sitlakhet

            Not being able to accomplish my target of visiting the temple, I returned back to the TRH and after having partaken the B’fast that is part of the tariff charged for the room, we headed for my pad and en-route went past many a small hamlets till we reached Kathpuriya, which is another small hamlet on the State Highway from Almora to Ranikhet and at a distance of 10 Kms. from Sitlakhet.  On the way I struck up a conversation with the driver of the taxi hired by me Mr. Chandan Singh, who is a local resident and resides near the temple at the hill top and he informed me that Sitlakhet had abundant water being blessed by Shyahi Mata and a natural spring takes care of all local requirement of water and also supplies water to Almora township.  He also informed me that the temple was surrounded by about seven Deodar trees, which appear in shape of two tigers when seen from Almora or other nearby hilltops.  Another small snippet that he provided was the fact that a small village, about 2 Kms. from Sitlakhet called ‘Khoont’, is the ancestral home of the legendary freedom fighter & politician Late Sh. Gobind Ballabh Pant.  As we reached Kathpuriya, one enters the state highway running from Almora to Ranikhet, one has to turn left and head towards Majhkhali and thereafter reach Ranikhet, which is about 18 Kms. from Kathpuriya.  From Ranikhet we rambled down to Ganiadoli, where we made some purchases for daily needs/use for our home and then headed further via Tarikhet to our final destination to our home in Timila.  Thus, ended the winter vacation break journey for the year.

Here is the link to the video for the destination -

© S Roy Biswas