Uttarakhand medley – Almora & Pithoragarh

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Uttarakhand medley – Almora & Pithoragarh

(All the blog links provided also contain short duration videos for the destination as well)

The panorama of Himalayan ranges as seen from Ranikhet

       In continuation of my earlier blogs that was published for promoting tourism in Nainital region, the present blog starts with the other part of Uttarakhand’s linguistically identified region i.e. Kumaon.  Kumaon region can further been identified as four distinct regions i.e. Nainital, Almora, Pithoragarh and Champawat.  The blog of the series highlights Almora and Pithoragarh alongwith places around it.  Here is the video that covers this region –

Almora

A view from Almora

The famed Jageshwar temple complex

A distant view of Katarmal Sun temple on hill side

Almora is the headquarters of the biggest district of the State and is a well-known destination of Uttarakhand, it is situated about 63 Kms. from Nainital.  Almora is situated on a ridge at the southern end of the Kumaon hills at an average elevation of 1861 meters.  The famous Almora bazar is saddled across this ridge that is appears like a saddle with two ends at Eastern and Western sides known as the Talifat and Salifat respectively.  Historically speaking, the Almora town is one of the oldest in the region that traces back its existence to 1568, as being established by Raja Kalyan Singh of Chand Dynasty and has been in existence in the present form since then, but its existence can be traced to pre-Mahabharata period also.  The town also symbolizes the cultural heritage of the Kumaon and accordingly has hosted various luminaries like Swami Vivekananda, Rabindranath Tagore etc. and was home to many other illustrious persons like Sumitra Nandan Pant (Poet), Gobind Ballabh Pant etc.  The town has many places of historical importance and other distinct identity of Almora is the Katarmal Sun temple.  There is also a very well-known Shiva temple complex in vicinity of Almora and here are the links to my blogs about them –

i)                   https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/almora-visiting-jageshwar-katarmal.html

ii)                 https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2013/12/revisiting-almora-ranikhet-photo-blog.html

iii)              http://shantanuroybiswas.blogspot.com/2016/09/divinity-of-jageshwar-dham.html

Apart from the above, there are other destinations that can be visited from Almora and some of them are as follows –

Binsar

View of Himalayan ranges from Binsar

Binsar was the summer capital of the Chand rulers and situated about 33 Kms from Almora at an elevation of 2412 meters.  In order to conserve the natural flora and fauna of this region, an area of about 45 sq. kms. was converted into a Wildlife reserve in 1988.  Here is the blog link for the destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/kumaon-binsar-v-iew-of-cloud-covered.html

Sitlakhet

View from Sitlakhet

Sitlakhet is a lesser known nondescript little destination of Almora district that is about 35 Kms. from Almora and 20 odd kms. from Ranikhet.  It is perched at an altitude of about 1900 meters and is a delight for nature lovers and trekkers.  Here is the link to my blog about this destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2017/03/sitlakhet-destination-of-snow-solitude.html

Ranikhet

Early morning view of Himalayan ranges from Ranikhet

Ranikhet or the Queens meadow is a charming little destination that offers outstanding views of the Himalayan ranges.  It is a well known Cantonment established by the British in 1869 as headquarters of the famed Kumaon regiment and at present also acts as the headquarters for the equally famous Naga regiment.  It has a salubrious climate all through the year and a nature lover’s delight.  Perched at an altitude of 1869 meters, it is an immensely popular summer destination.  Here are the links to my blogs about this destination –

i)                   https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2012/04/ranikhet-queens-meadow-photo-essay.html

ii)                 https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2013/03/ranikhet-meadow-of-queen-revisited.html

iii)              https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2019/02/monsoons-in-kumaon-pictorial-display-of.html

Dunagiri & Dwarhat

The famed Dunagiri temple

The Dwarhat region is a conglomeration of 116 villages and is situated at a distance of about 73 kms. from Almora and about 33 kms. from Ranikhet.  It houses an old 11^th Century old temple complex and is more well known for the famed ancient temple of Dunagiri situated about 14 Kms. from Dwarhat and is perched at an altitude of about 2400 meters.  Here is the link to my blog about the destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2013/02/visiting-dunagiri-dwarhat.html

Pithoragarh

Pithoragarh is the easternmost district of the Kumaon region and borders Nepal and China (Tibet).  This region is replete with various glaciers that are ideal trekking destinations for the adventure loving tourists.  Apart from this, there are several hill stations that offer spectacular views of the Himalayan ranges, being present within the district precincts.  There are several valleys and bugyals that offer moderate treks and resplendent views of Himalayas as well as rich flora & fauna for the nature lovers.  The most well known destination in this district is Munsiyari and on our way from Almora, the first destination that is worth mentioning is Chaukori.

Chaukori –

View of the TRH, KMVN in Chaukori

Chaukori is a small village, but an amazing destination with the Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam offering good accommodation and views from its property situated here.  It is about 115 kms. from Almora via Bageshwar and one can throw in a night’s stay in Kausani (in Bageshwar district) while travelling to this destination.  The destination offers a splendour of colours during the sunrise and sunsets over the Himalayan ranges from this destination.  It has also some old tea gardens situated within its precincts.  Perched at an altitude of 2010 meters, this idyllic destinations offers a few nights of relief to tourists from the plains below during the hot summer months, with a few temple destinations around it.  Here is link to my blog about the destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/kumaon-chaukori-view-of-himalayan.html

Berinag –

The Naga temple in Berinag

Situated at a distance of about 15 kms. from Chaukori is the temple town of Berinag, perched at an altitude of 1869 meters and is home to the famous  and ancient Nag (Snake) temple, which is reverend by the locals.  Here is the link to the blog about this destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/kumaon-traveling-from-chaukori-to.html

Munsiyari –

View of Rajrambha peak as seen from Munsiyari

Sunset view of Panchachuli from Munsiyari

 Munsiyari in local dialect means ‘place with snow’ and as the name suggests it is one of the most resplendent hill stations of Kumaon region.  Perched at an altitude of 2298 meters, it offers spectacular views of the Panchachuli ranges alongwith being an launching pad for the Milam, Namik and Relam glacier treks in Nanda Devi Biosphere reserve.  It is a must visit destination for the avid nature lovers.  Here is the link to my blog about the destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/kumaon-munshiyari-view-of-rajrambha.html

Pithoragarh -

Pithoragarph township (photo sourced from Widipedia)

It is the district headquarters of the district that goes by the same name.  Perched in a valley at an altitude of 1541 meters with air connectivity, it is known as the Soar valley or at times as the little Kashmir.  It has historical antecedents and is home to some old temples and a quaint destination to be enjoyed throughout the year, although air connectivity remains suspended during the winters.  Here is a short blog about the destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/pithoragarh-little-kashmir.html

Note – Although all the blogs are relatively old, but the geographic locations as well as the information about the destinations remain unchanged and hence can be referred to for that purpose.

© S Roy Biswas

Kumaon - Visiting Munshiyari

Kumaon – Munshiyari

View of Rajrambha peaks from Munshiyari in the evening

Munsiyari, meaning ‘place of snow’, offers a breathtaking view of some of the HimalayanPeaksand is situated at an almost desolate location (612 Kms. from Delhi – one way), close to theTibet (China) & Nepal border, at an altitude of 2135 meters. Generally known as Johar valley, the area was inhabited in ancient days by the Shaukas who led a semi-nomadic existence actively engaging in trade with Tibet across the difficult Himalayan passes. It took them 20-25 days to reach Tibet from where they carried back mainly salt. In those days, this was the only source of salt in the entire Himalayan region. At present Munshiyari is visited by tourists, the main attraction being the magnificent views of the Himalyan peaks of Pancha Chuli & Nanda Devi visible at almost hand shaking distance (15 Kms. crow flight). The famed Pancha Chuli reveals a whole new aspect each time you look at it, sometimes revealing itself in glory and at times only peeping from behind the cloud covers as a coy bride. At night it takes over a different hue altogether in the moon light.

View of sunrise from Munshiyari

Nanda Devi temple in foreground with Panchachuli in the background

View of the statute of Mother Goddess Nanda Devi inside the temple

Another view of the Panchachuli ranges from the Nanda Devi temple

There is nothing much to do in this lazy township, except to watch the Himalayan wonder. The sunrise is an event that is to be witnessed to be believed, it appears as if the rays of the sun ever so gently kissing the peaks one by one, traveling down snowy inclines, it is as if a river of molten gold is rolling down the silver slopes, until the whole range shimmers in a golden haze. Later, in the day one can visit Nanda Devi temple, a small white structure, tucked into solitude in the lap of mighty Himalayas. A still under construction watch tower offers one a mesmerizing 360 degrees view of the whole valley housing Munshiyari and the mountains surrounding it, the experience is awesome except for that harrowing unearthly sway at the top, each time a strong gust of wind kisses by it or some other adventurer is trying to get atop it. Here nothing stands between you and the peaks.

View of the Nanda Devi Peaks

Close-up view of the Panchachuli peaks

Another view of the Nanda Devi peaks

Another facet of the Panchachuli Peaks closeup

Panoramic view of the Panchachuli Peaks

Panoramic view of the Panchachuli peaks - view from Nanda Devi temple

Other tourist attractions of Munshiyari include the high gentle sloping meadows of Khaliya Top, 8 km from Munsiyari — ideal for skiing and adventure sports, one requires to trek for about 5 to 5½ hours to reach Khaliya top. Betulidhar, a big garden of Rhododendron, is situated about 5 kms. from Munshiyari, which also takes a more seasoned trekker to complete the circuit. I neither had the time nor the resources to do the trek and have left this to be covered by the more adventurous lot or maybe I will do it once absolved of all my family obligations. Apart from these two spots, situated in vicinity of Munshiyari, the other famous tourist spot is thesmall ‘Tribal Heritage Museum’ situated in the lower market area in Nanasen village, built single handedly by one Dr. S.S. Pangthi (fondly called ‘Masterji’ by the locals) and was a school teacher by profession. He has put together interesting antiques, where one can have a look at the original documents, which enabled trade between the JoharValley and Tibet and the personal effects of the traders. However, we were late and due to an ongoing local football tournament the place was closed. Munshiyari is also a place where many a local medicinal plants alongwith local spices & condiments are available and traded by the local Bhotias, having procured them from Alpine meadows in the Himalayan ranges above. A colleague of mine, Mr. Ramesh Ram hails from a village called Gora gaon, situated between Nachani & Tejam and I had called him up from Chaukori for advice and he in turn had advised me to get some of the local condiments from Munshiyari, which is known in the region for it. On his advice I had procured two condiments called ‘Dhungar/Jakhiya’, which is a form of some dried green plant parts that is used to impart a distinctive flavour to the ‘Dal’ & Vegetable preparations. The other being ‘Chipi’, which is essentially some form of dried up stem of some local plant, that is used by the locals as anti-congestant by brewing it as tea and also used to ease stomach cramps, by keeping a small bit of the stem in the mouth and slowly sucking in its juices. The other condiments were not available in the market and I was informed by the local shopkeeper that the same are brought back for trading after the monsoons, when these gatherers descent from the higher reaches of the Himalayas, with the impeding winter approaching gradually.

Flowers galore at KMVN Tourist Rest House in Munshiyari

The academician couple we met in Munshiyari with my kids in Nanda Devi temple

View of the Khalia-top & Betuli Dhar from Nanda Devi temple view point

Apart from the above, Munsiyari is ideally located for high altitude trekking to Milam glacier, from which emnates the Gori river, meandering in the depths of the valley below and the Nanda Devi base camp. We came across a bunch of school going American kids, returning from a trekking expedition and were engaged in animated conversation at the KMVN rest house dining area sharing their experiences. The receptionist informed me that during the summer months and at times even extending upto October, these kids from some American schools come over in batches for trekking every year.

You may also experience some moving visuals of Munshiyari in video below –

© S Roy Biswas., all rights reserved.