Uttarakhand medley – Almora & Pithoragarh

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Uttarakhand medley – Almora & Pithoragarh

(All the blog links provided also contain short duration videos for the destination as well)

The panorama of Himalayan ranges as seen from Ranikhet

       In continuation of my earlier blogs that was published for promoting tourism in Nainital region, the present blog starts with the other part of Uttarakhand’s linguistically identified region i.e. Kumaon.  Kumaon region can further been identified as four distinct regions i.e. Nainital, Almora, Pithoragarh and Champawat.  The blog of the series highlights Almora and Pithoragarh alongwith places around it.  Here is the video that covers this region –

Almora

A view from Almora

The famed Jageshwar temple complex

A distant view of Katarmal Sun temple on hill side

Almora is the headquarters of the biggest district of the State and is a well-known destination of Uttarakhand, it is situated about 63 Kms. from Nainital.  Almora is situated on a ridge at the southern end of the Kumaon hills at an average elevation of 1861 meters.  The famous Almora bazar is saddled across this ridge that is appears like a saddle with two ends at Eastern and Western sides known as the Talifat and Salifat respectively.  Historically speaking, the Almora town is one of the oldest in the region that traces back its existence to 1568, as being established by Raja Kalyan Singh of Chand Dynasty and has been in existence in the present form since then, but its existence can be traced to pre-Mahabharata period also.  The town also symbolizes the cultural heritage of the Kumaon and accordingly has hosted various luminaries like Swami Vivekananda, Rabindranath Tagore etc. and was home to many other illustrious persons like Sumitra Nandan Pant (Poet), Gobind Ballabh Pant etc.  The town has many places of historical importance and other distinct identity of Almora is the Katarmal Sun temple.  There is also a very well-known Shiva temple complex in vicinity of Almora and here are the links to my blogs about them –

i)                   https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/almora-visiting-jageshwar-katarmal.html

ii)                 https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2013/12/revisiting-almora-ranikhet-photo-blog.html

iii)              http://shantanuroybiswas.blogspot.com/2016/09/divinity-of-jageshwar-dham.html

Apart from the above, there are other destinations that can be visited from Almora and some of them are as follows –

Binsar

View of Himalayan ranges from Binsar

Binsar was the summer capital of the Chand rulers and situated about 33 Kms from Almora at an elevation of 2412 meters.  In order to conserve the natural flora and fauna of this region, an area of about 45 sq. kms. was converted into a Wildlife reserve in 1988.  Here is the blog link for the destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/kumaon-binsar-v-iew-of-cloud-covered.html

Sitlakhet

View from Sitlakhet

Sitlakhet is a lesser known nondescript little destination of Almora district that is about 35 Kms. from Almora and 20 odd kms. from Ranikhet.  It is perched at an altitude of about 1900 meters and is a delight for nature lovers and trekkers.  Here is the link to my blog about this destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2017/03/sitlakhet-destination-of-snow-solitude.html

Ranikhet

Early morning view of Himalayan ranges from Ranikhet

Ranikhet or the Queens meadow is a charming little destination that offers outstanding views of the Himalayan ranges.  It is a well known Cantonment established by the British in 1869 as headquarters of the famed Kumaon regiment and at present also acts as the headquarters for the equally famous Naga regiment.  It has a salubrious climate all through the year and a nature lover’s delight.  Perched at an altitude of 1869 meters, it is an immensely popular summer destination.  Here are the links to my blogs about this destination –

i)                   https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2012/04/ranikhet-queens-meadow-photo-essay.html

ii)                 https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2013/03/ranikhet-meadow-of-queen-revisited.html

iii)              https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2019/02/monsoons-in-kumaon-pictorial-display-of.html

Dunagiri & Dwarhat

The famed Dunagiri temple

The Dwarhat region is a conglomeration of 116 villages and is situated at a distance of about 73 kms. from Almora and about 33 kms. from Ranikhet.  It houses an old 11^th Century old temple complex and is more well known for the famed ancient temple of Dunagiri situated about 14 Kms. from Dwarhat and is perched at an altitude of about 2400 meters.  Here is the link to my blog about the destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2013/02/visiting-dunagiri-dwarhat.html

Pithoragarh

Pithoragarh is the easternmost district of the Kumaon region and borders Nepal and China (Tibet).  This region is replete with various glaciers that are ideal trekking destinations for the adventure loving tourists.  Apart from this, there are several hill stations that offer spectacular views of the Himalayan ranges, being present within the district precincts.  There are several valleys and bugyals that offer moderate treks and resplendent views of Himalayas as well as rich flora & fauna for the nature lovers.  The most well known destination in this district is Munsiyari and on our way from Almora, the first destination that is worth mentioning is Chaukori.

Chaukori –

View of the TRH, KMVN in Chaukori

Chaukori is a small village, but an amazing destination with the Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam offering good accommodation and views from its property situated here.  It is about 115 kms. from Almora via Bageshwar and one can throw in a night’s stay in Kausani (in Bageshwar district) while travelling to this destination.  The destination offers a splendour of colours during the sunrise and sunsets over the Himalayan ranges from this destination.  It has also some old tea gardens situated within its precincts.  Perched at an altitude of 2010 meters, this idyllic destinations offers a few nights of relief to tourists from the plains below during the hot summer months, with a few temple destinations around it.  Here is link to my blog about the destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/kumaon-chaukori-view-of-himalayan.html

Berinag –

The Naga temple in Berinag

Situated at a distance of about 15 kms. from Chaukori is the temple town of Berinag, perched at an altitude of 1869 meters and is home to the famous  and ancient Nag (Snake) temple, which is reverend by the locals.  Here is the link to the blog about this destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/kumaon-traveling-from-chaukori-to.html

Munsiyari –

View of Rajrambha peak as seen from Munsiyari

Sunset view of Panchachuli from Munsiyari

 Munsiyari in local dialect means ‘place with snow’ and as the name suggests it is one of the most resplendent hill stations of Kumaon region.  Perched at an altitude of 2298 meters, it offers spectacular views of the Panchachuli ranges alongwith being an launching pad for the Milam, Namik and Relam glacier treks in Nanda Devi Biosphere reserve.  It is a must visit destination for the avid nature lovers.  Here is the link to my blog about the destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/kumaon-munshiyari-view-of-rajrambha.html

Pithoragarh -

Pithoragarph township (photo sourced from Widipedia)

It is the district headquarters of the district that goes by the same name.  Perched in a valley at an altitude of 1541 meters with air connectivity, it is known as the Soar valley or at times as the little Kashmir.  It has historical antecedents and is home to some old temples and a quaint destination to be enjoyed throughout the year, although air connectivity remains suspended during the winters.  Here is a short blog about the destination –

https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/pithoragarh-little-kashmir.html

Note – Although all the blogs are relatively old, but the geographic locations as well as the information about the destinations remain unchanged and hence can be referred to for that purpose.

© S Roy Biswas

Kumaon – traveling from Chaukori to Munshiyari

Kumaon – traveling from Chaukori to Munshiyari

 

View of Ram or Kali Ganga river from Thal

I am posting this travelogue as a journey between two destinations, as it entails an enticing journey through some of the most picturesque river valleys of the region.

Panoramic view of Snake temple at Berinag

We started early next morning, as I was advised by another traveler, with whom I had a chance meeting at Binsar, a Parsi gentleman named Rusi Registrar, who was visiting the region alongwith a group of his friends & their spouses. We met again at Chaukori and as he had traversed the road till Munishiyari on an earlier occasion also, he informed us that the road was narrow and difficult to negotiate, thus would consume more time than it takes under normal circumstances. Heeding to his advice, we decided to start early and having had an early B’fast, we proceeded towards Munshiyari.

Close-up of the temple in Berinag

The first stop was Berinag, which is an area replete with a number of temples dedicated to the ‘Nag Devta’ (Snake God) like Dhaulinag, Kalinag, Feninag, Bashukinag, Pinglenag & Harinag. The most famous snake temple which is in Berinag (called as ‘Veninag’ locally) itself, is dedicated to one of the several manifestations of Lord Vishnu. The Legends have it that the place came to known as Berinag in commemoration of Nagveni Dyanasty King Benimadhava,who ruled the region. It is also believed that when the ‘Pant’ Gotra people migrated to the region from Maharashtra, in order to settle here, they saw numerous snakes of various hues & shapes, lying coiled all around the place in very large numbers and as a mark of reverence to them, they built a snake temple here in the fourteenth century A.D. It is a also a popular belief here that Lord Krishna after having conquered the mighty snake king ‘Kaliyanag’, who ruled the Yamuna river, commemorated as the ‘Kaliya daman’ in the scriptures, advised him to leave the river Yamuna and settle somewhere amidst the snowy peaks, Kalinag followed by many of his disciples, came over to stay around here and have stayed here eversince. To visit Berinag one has to travel about 6 kms. from main Chaukori-Thal road on to a side road, from a place called Udiyari Bend.

View of a small tributary of Kali Ganga before entering Thal

Going past Thal

After having paid our obeisance to the Snake Gods, we started our journey towards Munshiyari. Having negotiated past Udayari Bend again on return, we headed towards Thal. After traversing through some nondescript villages perched on hill sides, the gradual descent ended after having gone past the Bahrid Bend and on entering Thal all of 21 Kilometers from Udayari Bend. Thal is situated on the banks of river Ram or Kali Ganga and this quaint little township is also the access point to Bageshwar, Pithoragarh & Munshiyari. Having crossed the bridge over the Ram Ganga River, we stopped for some cold drinks and suddenly came upon an ancient Shiva temple situated on the banks of the river. This ancient temple is a protected monument and easily dates back to the ancient/medieval period and locally referred to as the ‘Depalay’. I could not find any other details regarding this temple either from the net or from books. The other attraction near Thal is the Ek Hatiya Temple, which is a monolithic shrine housed in Amiya village, situated at a distance of about 2 Kms. away from the motor road and it was not possible for me to trudge the distance, time being the constraint.

The ancient Shiva temple called 'Depalay' in Thal

An overview of the ancient temple complex in Thal

A sculpted figure on the temple facade

The road hereafter runs along the Ram/Kali Ganga River is resplendent with its natural beauty & local ethos. About 2 Kms. ahead of Thal lies Gauchar from where the road bifurcates towards Munshiyari through Nachni and the other one leading towards Didihat. While at Gauchar we saw a marriage party make way in two jeeps with quaint looking people dressed in white, with colourful cloth belts tied around their waists and a typical head gear. I tried to take a shot of this ensemble with my Camera, but the jeep driver was too quick and disappeared around the bend quickly. However, after some detailed search on net, I could lay my hands on a photograph depicting these quaint fellows and in case you are really interested may click on this link - http://www.indiamike.com/photopost/data/2/Indian_Bag-piper_at_Thal_Uttarakhand.JPG (they are locally engaged as an ensemble of musicians, dancers & singers during the marriages and locally the ensemble is called as ‘Chulias’). The next village that we passed by was Nachni and all of this 12 kms. that we traversed while traveling between Gauchar & Nachni, the road ran along the right side bank of river Ram Ganga and the sight was truly mesmerizing. Nachni is an important destination on this route, especially for the local people as well as tourists, as it offers a plethora of small eating joints for the famished.

The beautiful river valley of Kali or Ram Ganga beyond Thal

Another view of the Kali or Ram Ganga beyond Nachani

Bird's eye view of the Kali or Ram Ganga

After traveling for another 7 kms., we reached Tejam, another fairly established village enroute. The gradient of the road gets steeper as you move upwards towards the famed Birthi falls. Having gone past two small villages, namely Kwity (famous for local fruits including luscious Litchis) and Arkhet, having traversed another 12 Kms. from Tejam, we reached Birthi. The place is famous for a 125 meter high water fall, which originates from the Namik Glacier above. The KMVN has also put up a Tourist Rest House right at the base of the water fall at Birthi. We had initially planned to have our lunch here, but as the area was getting covered by a dense black clouds, I pushed through and thought of going past Kalamuni. Although I too was famished, but the narrow road running over a steep gorge through which the Jakula river passed through and coupled with this, I had knowledge that the area was prone to cloud bursts. The only too recent tragedy, that occurred around Girgaon killing 44 people of the village Jhekla (and three others), which also housed a well run dhabha called ‘Hiraman Hotel’, alongwith 300 meters of the main Nachni-Munshiyari highway was washed out to oblivion in a cloud-burst, during the ensuing night of the 7^th-8^th August, 2009 was fresh in my mind, having read about it (to read a first hand account of the tragedy in Hindi may click on the link - http://www.nainitalsamachar.in/la-panelia-jhekla-village-near-munsyari-and-cloud-burst/) & also viewed it over television, but I could not divulge the same, as it could have demoralized the spirits of everyone, especially the driver. Thus, after a brief tiff with my wife, over the issue of having lunch on time, I turned back towards Birthi from Girgaon, deciding not to apprise them of my fears. We had a simple but superbly prepared lunch at Birthi KMVN and thereafter started back towards Munshiyari. By now the ominous rain clouds were assuming alarming proportions.

The famed Birthi falls

Ominous rain clouds gathering over Girgaon

Having crossed Girgaon again and traveling 12 kms. from Birthi, we raced ahead and went pastRatapani, another 8 kms. from Girgaon and only after traversing Kalamuni, another 15 kms. from Ratapani, that I took a sigh of relief, albeit the fact that it had started drizzling heavily. After traveling for another three odd kilometers, we reached Ginni Bend and from whence the descent towards Munshiyari began, which lay another three kilometers downhill. By the time we reached Munshiyari, it was almost 4.30 P.M. and we had finally traversed the most arduous 107 kms., from Chaukori, driving for over for almost seven hours and I thanked my deity Lord Hanuman, for the safe run through some really difficult terrain.

Check out the washed out valley side in the background - after effects of 'cloud burst' - and the serpentine like road entwined along the mountain facade - view from Kalamuni top

To have a first hand experience of the journey kindly watch the video below –

© S Roy Biswas., all rights reserved.