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Sunday, August 16, 2026

Visiting Ranikhet – but via a new road

Visiting Ranikhet – but via a new road

A view of the road cutting towards Bhowali village done in 2012

A panoramic view of the new road cutting on the bye pass to Kainchi Dham from Bhowali Sanatorium as on June, 2026

            Every year I visit my home in Ranikhet region of Uttarakhand during the summers.  Accordingly, this year too I planned my visit in June, 2026 but due some official pre-engagement, I had to shift my visit to second week of June, 2026 and to be precise, I planned my visit on 13th June, 2026.  There is a very famous shrine of Baba Neem Karoli Baba en-route Ranikhet from Haldwani/Kathgodam and even during normal weekends it is packed with pilgrims and vehicles.  This shrine has a special significance for 15th of June every year, as it is the foundation day of the shrine.  There is so high influx of pilgrims and tourists that the Government has to impose restrictions for visit during the said days.  I had presumed that the restrictions would kick in only a day earlier than the scheduled mela/fair as per the usual practice and had accordingly planned and purchased ticket for early morning Shatabdi train for 13th June, 2026 that would reach Kathgodam by mid-day of the same date and thereafter, travel for about 90 Kms. or so by taxi to my home.

Panoramic view of Bhowali village in 2012
Panoramic view of Bhowali village in June, 2026

            I reached New Delhi Railway station early in the morning well in time and boarded the train.  I had a fixed driver who usually ferried me from Kathgodam to my home in Ranikhet region and I had already informed him beforehand and he had also acknowledged the same.  By the time I reached Haldwani, I rang him up to inform him about my imminent arrival in Kathgodam, but his phone god disengaged every time I tried to dial his number.  Since, I had another number, I rang up with it and his phone rang but he did not respond and thereafter, switched off his mobile.  It can be appreciated that a person may get pre-occupied with some other work, but courtesy requires that he informed me about it beforehand.  So I had to talk to another person from my village, who operates his own taxis and he provided me with an alternate number of another driver and he willingly agreed to pick me up from Haldwani itself.  Having tied up with the new driver, I alighted from the train at Haldwani station itself and got onto his taxi for our onward journey to Ranikhet.  The driver informed me that he stays in Ranikhet and hence it was his regular route.  However, on the way he informed me that this year the road restrictions on Kainchi Dham route had kicked in two days in advance rather than usual one day in advance.  Although the usual choke point of Nainital entry point was normal and we got past it without much ado, however, just as we reached Bhowali sanatorium region, there as a traffic jam, as the traffic was being diverted and we took the chance of going through the newly constructed bye-pass to Kainchi dham rather than the circuitous route through Mukteshwar-Almora-Ranikhet route that had been decided by the authorities. 

Panoramic view from Chorsa village in 2012 when it was not connected by road
View of Chorsa village in June, 2026 as the road passes through it

             The usual distance from Bhowali to Kainchi Dham through the regular route is about 8-9 Kms., however, the length of newly constructed bye-pass from Bhowali sanatorium is about 18 Kms.  The first twelve kilometers of this new route was properly paved, but beyond that the road is unpaved and uneven, a little rain can severely constrict movement across this road.  I had last traversed through this road way back in 2012, when we were offered a piece of land in a place called Chorsa village on this route, but as the road had not been constructed properly by then, the bunch of friends had decided to traverse this kuchha road of about 8-10 Kms. by foot and we had sent out taxi to Garam Pani to wait for our descent.  The condition of the road then was so atrocious that we had called off the plan to buy land in Chorsa village as we did not want to get struck with no means of transport to the village and it is only recently that the road has been developed.  I have some old photographs and hence have posted them as then and now photos.  Beyond the initial paved 12 Kilometers stretch, the road was so bad that the remaining six odd kilometers took almost one and a half hours to traverse.  I have placed a link to a short video for the viewers to evaluate the conditions themselves.  The remainder of the journey was without any further hiccups and we reached my home well in time.

Finally reached my home - view of my garden

Panoramic view of valley with Ranikhet in view across the valley from my home
View of Soni village - shot from a view point about 700 meters from my residence

Here is a short video of the road from Bhowali sanatorium -


*Note - all the recent photographs have been shot using my mobile phone camera and hence the quality may lag a little.
© S. Roy Biswas

 

 


Saturday, December 27, 2025

Ranikhet – during monsoon in August, 2025 (A photo blog)

Ranikhet – during monsoon in August, 2025
(A photo blog)

            There are a plethora of blogs on my link describing the various facets of the quaint little hill station of Ranikhet, as I keep visiting the destination to oversee the maintenance work related to my pad in a village called Timila that is situated in Tarikhet Block of Ranikhet Tehsil.  Therefore, I am not describing any details regarding the journey from Delhi to Timila village, but briefly to state, we took the early morning Shatabdi upto Kathgodam and after reaching their around Noon, we proceeded further in hired Taxi.  Being peak monsoon season, we had a blast eating local fire grilled maize and I found to my dismay that many of the sellers were pushing maize from plains as one from the hills, the latter is costlier and have a distinct sweet & soft texture.  However, this time around, having visited after quite a long time, I had not anticipated that the Kainchi Dham would be packed, however the entire stretch was and as we were already late for lunch, but we kept our tryst with the ‘Highway Inn’ run by KMVN at Khairna for our lunch.

             My wife had not travelled to any of the hill stations during monsoon, so it was first time for her and the scenic beauty of the hills totally mesmerized her and describing it in words would be futile, so I chose to post a photo blog this time around.  Here goes the photographs with brief descriptions –

Miaze being grilled on local wood


Wild Begonia flowers blooming around the hillside during monsoon


After days of dark cloud cover - the Himalayan ranges gave us a rare glimpse


Panoramic view of Baba Haira Khan temple in Chilyanaula, Ranikhet during monsoon season


Panoramic view of Ranikhet township during monsoon from road leading to Majhkhali


The cloud covered with a green top golf ground of Ranikhet


View of the valley below from Naini Village enroute of Majhkhali from Ranikhet


Umbrella Liverwort growing during monsoon season in Ranikhet region


Chetnuts growing on tree in Chaubatia Garden in Ranikhet


Panoramic view from Chaubatia Garden in Ranikhet


As the clouds envelope the Pine trees of forest in Ranikhet region


Panoramic view of Timila village in Ranikhet Tehsil 


As the cloud cover moves in - view from Timila village during monsoon


As the tufts of clouds drift along the valley - view from Timila village in Ranikhet Tehsil


A wide angle view from my Timila village home in Ranikhet Tehsil during monsoons


Just after a bout of rains - view from village Timila in Ranikhet Tehsil of Uttarakhand


Just after brief bout of rain - rainwater on Colocasia (Arbi in Hindi) leaves - shot in Timila village in Ranikhet Tehsil of Uttarakhand


Rose of Sharon (locally called Kaner or Gular in Hindi) - after rains - shot in village Timila in Ranikhet Tehsil of Uttarakhand


Here is a link to a video of my visit 


© S Roy Biswas


Wednesday, December 25, 2024

Visiting Ranikhet – my trips during 2024

Visiting Ranikhet – my trips during 2024

View of the village Timila from my home balcony

            The year 2024 is almost drawing to a close and we are in the last month of the year.  But due to several issues, I could not compose my blogs and decided that at least for the sake of records, I should conclude the year with some of my blogs in respect of places visited during the year.  After visiting Puducherry for some admission related work of my daughter, we decided for a short visit to Ranikhet during July, 2024.
Panoramic view of Binsar Mahadev temple
A view of 'Dolia Pahadi' restuarant in Ranikhet

             As my car was due to complete its 15 years life time tenure in September, 2024 we decided to make a last trip in my car to Ranikhet.  Usually, I refrain from visiting the hills during the rainy season, but this time around as the rains were scanty and there was no other time available for the visit, we decided to take a chance.  It was hot and humid as we proceeded for the journey from Delhi and remained so till we reached the hills.  We had two short breaks for B’fast, around Gajraula and for lunch at Bhimtal (having driven via Haldwani) and on the way to Bhimtal, tried some fire grilled Maize (Bhutta in Hindi), but due to lack of rains, the taste was not as good as we were used to having during our past visits.  Having started at 6.30 A.M sharp from Delhi, we reached my pad in village Timila in Ranikhet Tehsil in the evening at around 4.00 P.M. 

Hydrangea (Guldasta in Hindi) in bloom

             We settled in for a few days in the peace and tranquility of the hills, although it was not very hot, but lack of rains had made an impact all around and the hills were not as green as they are during monsoons in the hills.  During this stay, we visited the famed ‘Binsar Mahadev Temple’ that is about 2.5 Kms. from my village home.  We also visited Ranikhet main market also during the said visit and headed for lunch in a restaurant that boasts about its cuisine etc. named ‘Dolia Pahadi’.  It had started drizzling by the time we could locate the restaurant entrance, which is about 100 odd meters away from the road head and finding a parking space is also a challenge.  But apart from the ambience, the food was not at all to our satisfaction, especially the chapattis were smelling, as if made from stale atta (flour) and despite asking them the replace, the second serving was also the same.  So despite having high hopes of having a sumptuous lunch, we had to retrace our steps back, simply dissatisfied with the outing.  The only silver lining was that we could get half a plate of famed mutton chap from Prakash dhaba in Ranikhet market for my daughter on our way back.  As it had started raining, we simply retraced our way back to our pad in the village.

A Khalij pheasant (male) in jungle adjoining my house in village Timila

             After having settled for a few days in our pad, simply enjoying the tranquil enviorn, we started back for Delhi.  However, this time around we decided to travel from Ramnagar side, as it is shorter distance as compared to coming back via Haldwani.  But I rued my decision , as after crossing Kashipur the road heads across a short bridge built over a small rivulet and therefrom the entire road was splattered with huge potholes and a journey of about 40 odd kilometers took 3 hours to complete and the experience was atrocious.  We reached Delhi late in the evening and thus, completed my first visit to Ranikhet for the year.

Road along Shipra River - from Kainchi Dham towards Khairna
On the way towards 'Binsar Mahadev temple'
Himalayan ranges at sunset - as seen from my pad in village Timila
A panoramic view of the Himalayan ranges as seen from village Timila 

            The second visit to my pad in village Timila in Ranikhet Tehsil was undertaken by me with a family friend of mine in November, 2024.  Since my vehicle had been scrapped on completion of the tenure, we had no other option but to travel by train.  We boarded the Kathgodam Shatabdi from New Delhi Railway station at 6.20 A.M in the morning, after having had an altercation with the Taxi Driver, who dropped us on the road on Paharganj side, without completing the journey citing jam and we had to trudge about 500 odd meters to reach the station.  However, the train journey was smooth and we got down at Kathgodam at around 12.00 Noon and therefrom commenced on our journey towards Ranikhet via Jeolikote side by local Taxi driven by my long standing trusted driver Mr.Amit (Monu being his nickname).  On the way we had a sumptuous lunch of Mutton and rice at a road side eatery (dhabha), but were struck in a mild jams starting from entrance to Nainital till the time we crossed Kainchi dham.  Although my friend was inclined to visit Kainchi Dham, I insisted that he undertakes the visit during his return journey, which was scheduled earlier than my departure.  We reached my pad in village Timila in Ranikhet Tehsil at around 3.45 P.M and it was quite cold in the evening, as the winters had started setting in, I had asked my caretaker to prepare a fire wood stove (Angithi in Hindi) to ward for the extreme dampness and cold faced during first day due to the fact that the house remains closed for months together.  During my friend’s very short visit, we went to Binsar Mahadev temple one day and rested for the remaining days.  I continued for some more time and spent my time cooking and washing utensils etc. and enjoying the environs of the village to soothe my strained nerves, away from the hustle and bustle of the city life.  I returned back following the same route, but after collecting and purchasing some local vegetables, ginger and kidney beans from village home.  Thus, ended my second visit to Ranikhet region for the year. 

Here is a short video of the destination


© S. Roy Biswas