Uttarakhand medley – Nainital & around

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Uttarakhand medley – Nainital & around

  

The famed Naini lake of Nainital

In continuation of my earlier blogs that was published for promoting tourism in Garhwal region, the present blog starts with the other part of Uttarakhand’s linguistically identified region i.e. Kumaon.  Kumaon region can further been identified as four distinct regions i.e. Nainital, Almora, Pithoragarh and Champawat.  The first blog of the series will start with Nainital and places around it  Here is the video that covers this region –

  

Nainital

Nainital is the most well-known destination of Uttarakhand and is also the district Headquarters that goes by the same name.  Nainital is also known as the ‘Lake district of the State’, as this district has many small and big lakes scattered all around.  The entry to Kumaon region is through Haldwani or Kathgodam, which is the last rail head.  From Kathgodam the journey for Kumaon region commences and the most famous destination in this circuit is Nainital.  Nainital, named as the place where the ‘eyes’ (Naina) of ‘Sati’ fell here and is revered as one of the 64 ‘Shakti Peeths’, is the most famous destination in the Kumaon region.  The lake is about 1.3 kms. long and about 0.5 kms. in breadth, while the northern end of the lake is called the ‘Mallital’ and the southern tip as ‘Tallital’.  The lake is situated at an altitude of 1940 meters and is surrounded by many peaks, some of which tower over 8,000 feet i.e. China Peak.  It is a destination enjoyed by tourists, both during summers and winters equally.  Apart from Nainital, there are other equally enthralling destinations having lakes around Nainital and easily accessible from Nainital during a day tour and to name a few (ascending order of distance from Nainital) –

Sattal – This destination as the name depicts, is a conglomeration of seven lakes and is also perched at around an altitude of 1300 odd meters.  This destination is enjoyed by tourists for boating and is a much sought after destination for ‘Birders’, as it offers sighting of plethora of birds;

A view of the Sattal lake

Bhimtal - This quaint little township perched at an elevation of 1370 meters, houses the biggest lake of the region and accordingly named Bhimtal.  It is an enjoyable destination that offers facilities of boating and fishing;

View of Bhimtal lake

 Naukuchiatal – As the name suggests, the lake in this destination is ‘nine cornered’ one and perched at an elevation of 1220 meters.  It is the deepest lake in the region at is about 175 feet deep and tourists can enjoy boating, angling and bird watching in the destination.

 

The Naukuchia lake

Here is the link to my blog encompassing all these destinations –

1)      https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/nantial-lake-district-of-kumaon.html

Panghoot

View of Panghoot or Pangot

Also known as Pangot, this destination is a sublime one, away from hustle and bustle of Nainital and a drive of 13 Kms. from the township.  Perched at an elevation of 6,510 feet, this quaint little village destination is a must visit for avid bird watchers, as about 580 bird species have been identified visiting this area.  Here is the link to the blog for the destination - https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2012/09/walking-through-clouds-panghoot-around.html

Mukteshwar

Mukteshwar - the house where Jim Corbett used to stay during summers

This township is about 51 Kms. from Nainital and perched at an elevation of 2171 meters i.e. about 7500 feet, this destination is named after the 350 years old Shiva temple situated here.  This destination offers fantastic views of sunrise and sunset alongwith sporting activities like rappelling etc., to add to the charm of this destination.  It is a must visit destination for nature lovers and those who enjoy the splendour of the hills.  Here is the link to the blog about this destination -  https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/kumaon-mukteshwar-view-of-sitla-from.html

Kainchi Dham

The famed Kainchi dham temple

Kainchi is a beautiful ashram located in secluded mountain of the Kumoan Hills in Uttarakand. The temple was first inaugurated in June 1964. It is approximately 38 km from Nainital. Many hundreds of people visit the temples here every day, during the season.  It was some time in 1962 when Maharajji called for Shri Poornanand of Kainchi village while he himself waited sitting on parapet wall by the road side near Kainchi. When he came, they refreshed the memories of their first meeting which they had 20 years back in 1942. They discussed about the place around. Maharajji wanted to see the place where Sadhu Premi Baba and Sombari Maharaj had lived and performed Yagyas. The forest was cleared and Maharajji asked for the construction of a Chabootara (rectangular platform) covering the Yagyashala. Maharajji contacted the then "conservator of forests" and took possession of the requisite land on lease.  The Hanuman temple is built over the platform mentioned above. His devotees started coming from different places and a chain of bhandaras, kirtans, bhajans started. The Pran-Pratishtha of idols of Hanumanji and others was performed on 15th June in different years. Thus, 15th June is celebrated every year as Pratishtha Divas Each year, during the famous June 15th bhandara.  The place is of international repute boasting of followers like Steve Job & Mark Zuckerberg.

© S Roy Biswas

Monsoons in Kumaon – a pictorial display of the mood

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Monsoons in Kumaon – a pictorial display of the mood

As the monsoon clouds drift across the valleys and the mountains

              I have had the privilege of growing up in the hills, having been born and brought up there and also having had my education up to the middle level, in one of the pristine hill stations of Himachal Pradesh.  The hills are a place where one can experience all the four full seasons, along with the two transitional seasons of Spring & Autumn, of the natural cycle of seasons.  Having now spent a better half of my life in the plains of Delhi, I can clearly distinguish the difference between the nature’s glories that spreads its splendour in the hills, as compared to some drab seasons of Delhi.  In the hills, one can distinguish the seasons distinctly.  Starting with Spring, which heralds in after the harsh winters, there is a nip in the air, but also a distinct feel good factor, as the day temperatures get steady and pleasant, accompanied by the same, with most of the stone fruit bearing trees being in full bloom, with flowers of different shades and hues covering the entire trees and creating an aura of pleasure and happiness all around.  After the gaiety Spring, comes in the summers that ushers in a feeling of gay abandon.  Gone are the heavy woollen clothing and as the days gete hotter and longer, but bearable and nights are short and sweet. After summers move in the monsoon season or the rainy season and as the clouds move in, one can experience the intensity of the rains, which is such that torrents flow through the roads, as if some seasonal rivulet has sprung forth.  This abundance of water paints forth all the hills in all green and it is one of the spectacular visual experiences that one can have amongst the four seasons, other than the winters that is also truly spectacular.  Although not a favourite season for the tourists and thus, only those who stay in the hills enjoy its beauty.  The present narration is a pictorial depiction of the spectacular scenery that unfolds in the hills during monsoons –

As the rain clouds loom over Ranikhet

The clouds stretch from the plains to the hills - view of Kosi River along Corbett

Tufts of clouds lay scattered across the Ranikhet valley

Clouds drifting in the Nainital valley

Cloud cover all across - view from Bhatrochkhan

A panoramic view of the cloud filled valleys on Naintial

View of the river valley near Garampani in Naintial district

Cloud cover has just lifted - Nainital hills from Bhimtal road

A tuft of cloud suspended mid air - Nainital hills from Bhimtal road

Just after a fresh bout of rain, as the clouds part - view of Ranikhet hills from Timila village

As the clouds envelope - view of Nainital hills from road to Khairna

As the veil of clouds part, some village homes become visible again - shot from Timila village

After fresh shower of rain everything around is dripping with pure water

After a fresh bout of rains, even the grass collect some water

As the monsoon clouds loom large - shot on way to Almora

Just after a bout of rain, the cloud cover clears over Almora

How green is my valley - monsoon green - view from Bhowali village

As the rain clouds drift in - view from Timila village of Teh.Ranikhet

Panoramic view of the rain clouds drifting - view from Timila village of Teh.Ranikhet

As the rain clouds envelopes the valleys - view from Timila village of Teh.Ranikhet

As the clouds hug the hill sides - - view from Timila village of Teh.Ranikhet

Rain clouds nestled in the hills & valleys - - view from Timila village of Teh.Ranikhet

Another view of the rain clouds enveloping the valleys - - view from Timila village of Teh.Ranikhet

Rain drops like diamonds scattered on leaves after rain

As the clouds descend upon the Bhimtal lake

             I will follow up this blog with similar pictorial depictions of the other seasons in the hills, in my ensuing blogs, to bring out the distinctiveness of the six seasons that one experiences in the hills.

Walking through the clouds – Panghoot & around

Walking through the clouds – Panghoot & around

Garh Mukteshwar - now it looks like River Ganges

              As usual the travel bug had started troubling me and coupled with my agenda of ‘Having a piece of Heaven in Heaven’ (refer to my earlier blog by same title), we embarked on our journey to Uttarakhand, during the extended weekend in August, 2012.  We were five persons and one amongst us arranged for an Innova for embarking upon the travel and another friend arranged for the stay at ‘Ashoka’s Naini Chalet’ in Pangot.  Although I had heard much about the place, being a active briding site, but this was my first opportunity to visit this destination.  Panghoot is a village in the Kosiyakutoli tehsil of Nanital District in Uttarakhand, India and the distance from Delhi to Pangot is about 305 Kms.  Accordingly, we started early in the morning and got picked up from the pre-arranged point’s en-route.  By the time we left Delhi it was almost 8.00 A.M, but luckily as it was a Saturday, we did not face much of a traffic enroute.  However, the first topic was as to whether have B’fast at the famous Skylark Restaurant at Garh Mukteshewar or to partake the home prepared one.  After much deliberation, it was decided that we would take a break for the B’fast and as there were no good eating joints beyond Moradabad, we would partake the home prepared meal for lunch.  Thus, we took our first break at Garh Mukteshwar.

Just entering the Kaladhungi forest area

Headed for the hills - monsoon magic

Friends posing for a photo

A small rivulet on the way

            After having had some sumptuous Aloo Pranthas et al, we embarked upon our journey further.  I was pleasantly surprised to find the water of River Ganges overflowing its banks at Garh Mukteshwar, as it is a mere trickle during the summer season, when I usually pass by this spot.  So I got down from the vehicle and took some shots.  We traveled at a leisurely pace and as we drove further towards the Nainital hills, the cloud cover started getting denser.  We took a turn from the main Highway towards Tanda and were flabbergasted on seeing the condition of the road, to say the least, there was no road at all, but a series of pot-holes of varying sizes & shapes.   This entrapment continued for about 16 odd Kms. and all our entire body parts were put though a rollercoaster ride.  It had started drizzling and as we entered the Kaladhungi stretch, it started raining ‘cats & dogs’.

View of Nainital lake from Kilbury

One from the car - monsoon magic

Birds galore - at Kilbury

           We negotiated the roads slowly, till we reached the Bara Pathar crossing, wherefrom just after entering the Nainital, we turned left towards the Mall road leading to Kilbury hills, this road leads to Pangot.  After traversing some distance, we found locals armed with telescopes enticing tourists to take a look at the panoramic view of Nainital lake & surrounding areas below.  We too got down and took some photographs and also had a look through the telescope, so as to understand the topography of the place @Rs.20/- for five points shown by the vendors.  It was still overcast and by the time, we headed for Pangot, it was getting dark.  We were driving cautiously, as the road was winding and covered with Rhododendron & Oak forests of either side, it was all the more darker.  Suddenly, we reached a clearing with a few shops on the road and the road sign read “Panghoot”, as we slowed the vehicle and man came towards us enquiring as to whether we were booked for ‘Ashoka’s Naini Chalet’ and led the way, which was hardly 25 meters from the main road.  Thus, we reached Panghot/ Panghoot (as per the Post Office description of name – both in English & Hindi) and checked into our rooms.  The destination and ambience of the Resort was magnificent and we ordered some Pakoras & Tea/Coffee for refreshments.  At night we had a game of snooker & my friends enjoyed some drinks and I gave company partaking a gallon of Cold drinks, I being a teetotaler and also arranged for a guide to take me for some bird watching early next the morning.

Panghoot village entry & market square

Panghoot - monsoon magic

Ashoka's Naini Chalet - view from Jungle lodge

Ashoka's Naini Chalet

Ashoka's Naini Chalet - view by night

            We had a good night’s sleep and I was awakened early hearing chirping of birds and some ruckus being created by the Rhesus monkeys, who were busy eating moths & insects in the verandah, that had been attracted to the lights during the night.  I found that it was still raining and had to postpone my sojourn into the forests for the time being.   Panghoot is a nondescript but serene & visually enticing village, tucked away into the confines of the Kumaon hills, with forests of Rhododendrons & Oaks enveloping the hills in a ‘Chador’ of green coupled with echoing the tweets of many a colourful birds and with little trails that disappear into interior of forests, that's Panghoot for all the nature lovers. A birdwatcher's paradise, Pangot is 15 kms from Nainital and the drive is through the bird habitats of Cheena Peak range forests via Snow View Point and Kilbury. Some of the commonly encountered birds here are the Lammergeier, Himalayan griffon, Blue-winged minla, spotted & Slaty-backed forktail, Rufous-bellied woodpecker, Rufous-bellied Niltava, Khalij pheasant, variety of thrushes etc. Almost 150 bird species have been recorded at Panghoot and its surrounding areas.   Life in this quaint little village is tranquility redefined; the activity of villagers either remains restricted to the confines to their homes or at the small market square, with a laid back life style.  As soon as the rain took a breather, we embarked on the trek into the forests for shooting (I mean photographing) the birds.  It was steep climb through the forests and the first bird sighted was a Blue Whistling Thrush, but due to dense fog the reduced visibility the Camera could not capture a good image, the next bird I spotted was the Niltava but again the light played truant and due to slow shutter speed, the photographs were not good.  However, having trudged some few hundred meters, we heard a loud tweeting sound, I started emulating the same by whistling similarly and as the bird descended, I found that it was a Striated Laughing Thrush.  I could hear many birds chirping but due to dense fog and tree foliage, could not spot them and as I had to return back for the onward journey, I retraced my way back to the Resort.

Another birder's group in discussion in another Resort

Rofous sibia - right at the Resort itself

Monsoon magic

Panghoot - bird pecking on fern spores

Another warbler - Panghoot

            On the way back, I encountered my friends who were eagerly waiting for me for the scheduled visit to Chorsa village and they chided me for delaying them and I quickly had Breakfast and we were off.  We crossed Nainital, which was not all that crowded because of the intense rain that had precipitated in the region during the previous night and reached Bhowali.  However, the person who was scheduled to meet us there had not arrived and informed us that he was near Sattal for running an errand, we took our vehicle and headed there to bring him back so that he could guide us.  The road to Chorsa village is being newly constructed and runs from below the Bhowlai Sanatorium gate.  The road is unpaved and due to rain there were quite a few potholes, however, enroute we met the JCB operator, who informed us that road upto Bhowali village was reachable, but beyond that the road was almost non-existent.  We therefore, drove till Bhowali village and thereafter, started the 13 Kms. trek to Garam Pani, having asked the driver to reach the Highway at Garam Pani and wait for us there.  There were several landslides on the way, with hardly any space to squeeze across huge boulders that had slid down the mountain side at many a places and accompanied with water & sludge, through which we had to slog.  However, finally we came to a point where the road was totally blocked and we had to slide down the mountain side and cross along the old bridle path that lay below.  The valley was totally untouched and pristine, it was nature’s best display of wildflowers and birds et al.  But due to the intensity of the trek and treacherous paths, I could not photograph them (only a handful) but it was a trek to remember.  The rain Gods who had been playing spoil sport till now, had relented a bit and it continued to be clear till we reached Chorsa village, but as soon as we started with our descent, it started drizzling again.  The villagers are always welcoming and warm hearted and they insisted that we wait for some time at their house for the rain clouds to pass through, and we were pleasantly surprised at having been offered tea, to totally unknown persons and it was a very pleasing experience.  I was feeling a bit soggy in my right leg and took the opportunity to check out my shoes, thinking that they might have developed some hole or something of the kind and rain water had soaked in, but to my disgust I found that my socks were drenched in fresh blood.  We found out the culprit too, it was the Leech that had hitched on my legs, either en-route during the trek or while I was in Pangoot forest.  The descent thereafter, was uneventful and after long 5 hours journey, we reached Garam Pani and by this time we were totally famished as well as dead tired.

Panoramic view of Bhimtal lake

Bhowali village

Wild flora 

View from Chorsa village

Lemon rumped warbler 

 

Grey headed yellow warbler

Long tailed Minivet

Nainital by night

Getting the corns roasted

             As I have narrated hereinabove that it had started raining as soon as we started our descent from Chorsa Village and by now it had become unrelenting.  We stopped by at Kainchi Dham and had some Pakoras and Tea, but I especially had the famous ‘Lime/Nimboo Water/Pani’.  Thereafter, we slowly made our way back to the Resort at Panghoot, crossing by Nainital and had a beautiful view of the lake by night.  Early next morning we started our journey back to Delhi and had a break for some fire roasted corns, which is a specialty of the hill regions and shot some photographs also of more birds that were chirping about.  The remaining part of the journey was very pleasant till Delhi, with the rains following us all through the way – we were, in a way, the harbingers of the rain clouds from Uttarakhand to Delhi.

WATCH THE VIDEO OF THE DESTINATION -