Nondescript destinations of Kumaon – Tarikhet

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Nondescript destinations of Kumaon – Tarikhet

A panoramic view of main road & market of Tarikhet

          Tarikhet is a big hamlet, which is the Block headquarters that goes by the same name and comprises of 134 village Panchayats.  The STD code of the destination is – 05966 and PIN code is – 263663.  It is at a lower elevation of about 1500 odd meters above mean sea level and apart from the Block Development Office, it houses banks, ATMs, a Primary Health Centre, Govt. Inter College et al.  With Indian independence struggle movement in its credit, Tarikhet is a charming, verdant and beautiful cute village nearby Ranikhet on the way to I have been away from writing blogs for a long time and as I am struck down because of the pandemic, while searching for smaller destinations in the region of the internet, I could find only some scanty and scattered information.  Accordingly, I decided to gather information and put them on the internet in form of blogs for the readers and hence starting this series as ‘Nondescript destinations of Kumaon’.  In this series, I am starting with Tarikhet being the nearest township from my village.

A panoramic view of Tarikhet from Gandhi Kutir

 Tarikhet is a charming, verdant and beautiful cute hamlet nearby Ranikhet on the way to Ramnagar. It is a rather big hamlet, which is the Block headquarters that goes by the same name and comprises of 134 village Panchayats.   It is perched at a lower elevation of about 1500 odd meters above mean sea level, but has salubrious climate the year round.  Being the block headquarters, apart from housing the Block Development Office, it also has two banks and their ATMs, a Primary Health Centre, many private run as well as Government run schools, Govt. Inter College et al.  The STD code of the destination is – 05966 and PIN code is – 263663.

Outside view of the Gandhi Kutir

Close up of the pillar commemorating visit by Gandhi ji

A plaque indicating the Gandhi kutir

Tarikhet is well known for its association with the Indian independence struggle movement in its credit.  The recognition of Tarikhet and its association with freedom struggle is attributable to the famous ‘Gandhi Kutiya', a small hut where Mahatma Gandhi stayed for three days in June, 1929. Tarikhet was the nerve center for all the activities related to the freedom struggle. This is a must place to be visited to get the feeling of the history of India and its independence.  This prime attraction is now in a rather neglected state here, which is the small hut known as Gandhi Kuti, where Mahatma Gandhi, the great symbol of peace and tranquility and Father of our Nation, stayed once during the freedom movement. This place is thus, a symbol of India’s freedom struggle against the British Raj.  However, as you approach this venerated place, the government apathy is palpable & noticeable straight away.  The condition of the approach road is atrocious, with no maintenance whatsoever.  Even more so is the actual Kutir, which is ceremonially spruced and decked up during the Gandhi Jayanti etc., as informed by the local residents, or else in case when some local leaders troop in and make tall claims, only to disappear later.  The staircase is in bad shape, the place where Gandhiji stayed was converted into a school but the same is now in a state of total disrepair and the locals have even removed the doors & windows from the building, that sans any kind of security or periphery wall whatsoever.  The statute of Ghandhiji that was placed inside the Kutir and was on verge of being vandalized, has been kept in safe custody by the Principal of the local school of Prem Vidyalaya, Tarikhet. 

The statue of Gandhi ji kept in Prem Vidyalaya in Tarkhet

 The place bristles with activities all round the year, with people moving to and fro in the market or visiting Government offices for their works.  The market is spread across both sides of the State Highway that connects Ranikhet with Ramnagar and is the main market for local villagers for sourcing their requirements, be it clothes or other day to day sundry requirements.  It houses some quaint little sweetmeat shops and a few restaurants that cater mainly to local cuisine.  There is a small hotel or rather a home stay that goes by the name of ‘Pine grove Hotel’ and is situated in the outer vicinity of the township.  The place also offers an opportunity to visit a temple housing the famed Golu Devta, the reverend deity of the region and also is home to a small temple dedicated to Lord Hanuman inside the temple complex. 

             Thus, this destination known as Tarikhet, although may not be a destination of great tourist attraction, but is definitely a quaint and tranquil little destination, where the nature lover traveler can spend a few days in solitude.

Here is a link to a short video of the destination

 

Monsoons in Kumaon – a pictorial display of the mood

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Monsoons in Kumaon – a pictorial display of the mood

As the monsoon clouds drift across the valleys and the mountains

              I have had the privilege of growing up in the hills, having been born and brought up there and also having had my education up to the middle level, in one of the pristine hill stations of Himachal Pradesh.  The hills are a place where one can experience all the four full seasons, along with the two transitional seasons of Spring & Autumn, of the natural cycle of seasons.  Having now spent a better half of my life in the plains of Delhi, I can clearly distinguish the difference between the nature’s glories that spreads its splendour in the hills, as compared to some drab seasons of Delhi.  In the hills, one can distinguish the seasons distinctly.  Starting with Spring, which heralds in after the harsh winters, there is a nip in the air, but also a distinct feel good factor, as the day temperatures get steady and pleasant, accompanied by the same, with most of the stone fruit bearing trees being in full bloom, with flowers of different shades and hues covering the entire trees and creating an aura of pleasure and happiness all around.  After the gaiety Spring, comes in the summers that ushers in a feeling of gay abandon.  Gone are the heavy woollen clothing and as the days gete hotter and longer, but bearable and nights are short and sweet. After summers move in the monsoon season or the rainy season and as the clouds move in, one can experience the intensity of the rains, which is such that torrents flow through the roads, as if some seasonal rivulet has sprung forth.  This abundance of water paints forth all the hills in all green and it is one of the spectacular visual experiences that one can have amongst the four seasons, other than the winters that is also truly spectacular.  Although not a favourite season for the tourists and thus, only those who stay in the hills enjoy its beauty.  The present narration is a pictorial depiction of the spectacular scenery that unfolds in the hills during monsoons –

As the rain clouds loom over Ranikhet

The clouds stretch from the plains to the hills - view of Kosi River along Corbett

Tufts of clouds lay scattered across the Ranikhet valley

Clouds drifting in the Nainital valley

Cloud cover all across - view from Bhatrochkhan

A panoramic view of the cloud filled valleys on Naintial

View of the river valley near Garampani in Naintial district

Cloud cover has just lifted - Nainital hills from Bhimtal road

A tuft of cloud suspended mid air - Nainital hills from Bhimtal road

Just after a fresh bout of rain, as the clouds part - view of Ranikhet hills from Timila village

As the clouds envelope - view of Nainital hills from road to Khairna

As the veil of clouds part, some village homes become visible again - shot from Timila village

After fresh shower of rain everything around is dripping with pure water

After a fresh bout of rains, even the grass collect some water

As the monsoon clouds loom large - shot on way to Almora

Just after a bout of rain, the cloud cover clears over Almora

How green is my valley - monsoon green - view from Bhowali village

As the rain clouds drift in - view from Timila village of Teh.Ranikhet

Panoramic view of the rain clouds drifting - view from Timila village of Teh.Ranikhet

As the rain clouds envelopes the valleys - view from Timila village of Teh.Ranikhet

As the clouds hug the hill sides - - view from Timila village of Teh.Ranikhet

Rain clouds nestled in the hills & valleys - - view from Timila village of Teh.Ranikhet

Another view of the rain clouds enveloping the valleys - - view from Timila village of Teh.Ranikhet

Rain drops like diamonds scattered on leaves after rain

As the clouds descend upon the Bhimtal lake

             I will follow up this blog with similar pictorial depictions of the other seasons in the hills, in my ensuing blogs, to bring out the distinctiveness of the six seasons that one experiences in the hills.

Himalayan ranges from Badan Khet of Timila village (A photo blog)

Himalayan ranges from Badan Khet of Timila village

(A photo blog)

Sunrise as viewed from Badan Khet, Village Timila

         After having visited my pad in the month of January, when I had visited Padampuri & Sitlakhet also and as narrated in my earlier blogs, I had some work and had to visit my pad in Bdan Khet of Timila Village in March, 2017.  The day we reached the place, I found that it was all cloudy and covered with no view of the Himalayas.  But I also did not get time to explore much as I was busy with other chores.  However, during the ensuing days, I not only got some good views, but was able to stitch a panorama of the Himalayan ranges visible from the village.

            I have described the geographical location of this little village in my earlier blogs in detail, but for the benefit of the new viewers I am describing it again.  It is situated on a ridge on the State highway running from Ramnagar (Corbett National Park) to Ranikhet and in between Bhatrauch Khan and Tarikhet, just about 3 Kms. before reaching Tarikhet, while coming from Ramnagar side and is about 14 Kms. from Ranikhet Market.  Placed on a spur of a mountain ridge, the entire valley is open as far as eyes can see and was once the fruit basket of the region, with Apples growing in the region.  But with the climate turning warmer and migration of the people from villages, now hardly any apples grow here, but it is resplendent with Plums, Apricots etc. during the fruiting season.  The scenic beauty of the destination is sublime and as I was unable to find much data about the pictographic description of the peaks that are visible from here, I did some research and am presenting my take on the mountain peaks in the photographs that I am posting in this blog –

The Chaukhamba peaks panorama

The Gangotri peaks panorama

The Hathi & Ghoda peaks panorama

Some unidentified peaks panorama

The Kedar peaks panorama

The Trishul & Nanda Devi peaks

In case any of my readers/viewers have a different opinion about the peaks they are free to post in the comments to correct me.

Revisiting - Almora & Ranikhet (a photo-blog)

Revisiting -  Almora & Ranikhet  (a photo-blog)

Sunrise over the Himalayan ranges - view from Ranikhet

   My blog about Almora is already available and the link is as follows - http://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.in/2011/12/almora-visiting-jageshwar-katarmal.html but as happens, you cannot visit every small temple or tourist spot at one go.  Therefore, as we were traversing back from Jalna, we found out that in order to reach Ranikhet, we had to return back to Almora and thereafter head towards Ranikhet.  We proceeded towards Saharphatak, this road further leads to Lohaghat from Jalna, till we came across another small village about 4-5 Kms. from Jalna called Lamgara.  Here from a small road bifurcates through some small villages and connect with the Almora-Pithoragarh road.  Instead of back tracking through the same route that we had used while travelling from Almora for Jalna, we chose this route instead to avoid monotony.

Huge cobwebs - absorbing the moisture from the clouds/fog enveloping the valley

Impatiens spp. - Balsam flowers

Terraced fields - on way from Jalna to Almora

        Lamgara is also perched at an altitude which is almost similar to Jalna and also offers some good panoramic view of the Himalayan ranges & the vales below.  The road that runs towards Almora from here can be best described as a little better than a dirt track, but it runs through some pristine forest area and regions untouched by the modern world gizmos.  The life these village still trudges at a slow speed that can be kept pace with and the lack of hustle & bustle leads to a sense of serenity in these region.  There were a lot of birds to see and photographer, but our friend’s father, who is almost an octogenarian, was getting impatient due to constant halts and hence we had to rush through.  He was more intent to reach Jageshwar temple complex, as it was the auspicious Hindu month of ‘Sawan’ and performing puja (performing Hindu rituals) at the various ‘Shivlingas’ (Shiva’s phalanx is worshipped in Hindu temples) is considered very auspicious by Hindus.  Most Hindus believe that Jageshwar is the place of Nagesh, 8th among the Dwadasa Jyotirlingas i.e. Ten plus two Jyotirlings  (the twelve resplendent Lingas of Lord Shiva established by Lord Vishnu), which is stated to exist in the forest of Daruka/Deodar (Cedrus deodara) or daruka van/forest.  Jageshwar holds a special position as being the first in the list of such Jyotirlingas

Brown fronted woodpecker

Asian Koel 

Yellow breasted Greenfinch or Himalayan Greenfinch

         We reached Jageshwar temple complex at around 11.00 A.M and found that the complex was almost empty.  While purchasing the ritualistic articles required for performance of the puja inside the temple complex, I struck up a conversation with the shopkeeper and he informed that during this year, because of the calamity that had struck Kedarnath region, the tourist influx had been badly affected in entire of Uttarakhand and the business was very poor, almost a slump of 80% from normal.  We too could sense this, as despite being a very auspicious month for performing Puja, the crowd of Hindu devotes were quite conspicuous by their absence.  But this offered us a window of opportunity and we could perform the Puja in an elaborate manner inside the temple complex, which otherwise would have been a luxury in case of heavy rush of pilgrims.  There is no definite dating of the construction of Jageshwar group of temples but according to the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), they belong to the post-Gupta and pre-medieval eras and are estimated to be about 450 yrs old. These temples range in the period from the 8th century (early Katyuri Dynasty) to the 18th century (Chand Dynasty). The temples were renovated during the reign of Katyuri King Shalivahandev. There is an inscription of Malla Kings on the main temple premises indicating their devotion to Jageshwar. The Katyuri Kings also donated villages to the temple priests for its maintenance. The Chand Kings of Kumaon were also patrons of the Jageshwar temple.  Numerous Jageshwar temples were constructed or restored during the Gurjara Pratihara era.  It is believed that while establishing the various maaths in Uttarakhand, like the Kedarnath and Badrinath dhams, Adi Shankaracharya too had visited Jageshwar and renovated and re-established many temples before leaving for Kedarnath. The Samsan ghat of Jageshwar is also the cremation ground of the erstwhile Chand Kings. The temples architecture belongs to the Nagara style, characterized by a tall curved spire surmounted by an amalaka (capstone) and a kalasha crown. Most of the temples enshrine a stone Lingam, surrounded by stone sculptures of various deities. The pilgrimage to Jageshwar is considered as sacred as the famous Chardham yatra.

Temple spire of Jageshwar temple - near Almora

Panoramic view of Jageshwar temple - near Almora

Inside the Jageshwar temple precincts

Idol of Kal Bhairav in Jageshwar temple complex

The ceremonial fire or 'Yagna kund' in Jageshwar temple

       The folklore in the regions around Jageshwar tells us a gripping story about building the Main temple Near Kot Linga Temple Complex. Lord Shiva selected this place to be his abode. During the Tapasya by Lord Shiva, demons obstructed his penance. Then God "Sam" came into being as Trinetra (the third eye of Lord Shiva), who sent his ‘Ganas’/Demons to kill these demons. It is believed that Lord Sam will come to Kot Linga temple premises to save humanity and Jageshwar in Kalyuga. Adi Shankacharya tried to build the maim temple at Kotlinga but to no avail as Lord Sam wanted Kotlinga to be specifically reserved for the Meditation of his beloved Lord Shiva. Old Ruins of a temple structure can be found near Kotlinga. Local People still believe that Lord Sam will come and built the real Jageshwar temple near Kotlinga and thus, save the mankind from adversities of Kalyuga.  It is also believed that anyone who prays here is saved from ‘akaal mrityu’/untimely or sudden violent death.  The temple city comprises a cluster of 124 large and small stone temples, dating 9th to 13th century AD, with many preserved by the  (ASI), which include Dandeshwar Temple, Chandi-ka-Temple, Jageshwar Temple, Kuber Temple, Mritunjaya Temple, Nanda Devi or Nau Durga, Nava-grah temple, a Pyramidal shrine, and Surya Temple.  The most famous of them is the Mahamrityunjay temple is the largest and oldest temple in the Jageshwar temple complex. This temple of Shiva is eastern facing and the Linga is worshipped as the saviour from death. The unique linga has an eye shaped opening. Pilgrims believe that reciting the Mahamritunjaya Mantra is a fruitful, auspicious and powerful method of self-realisation, removal of evil effects, and freedom from all kinds of fears, illness and negativity. The Mahamritunjaya Mantra is attested in the Sukla Yajurveda Samhita III/60.  Thus, having performed the Puja at the main temple, we proceeded further to visit another the famous temples that was missed by me during my previous visit i.e. Golu Devta temple in Chitai, Almora.

Outside view of Golu Devta temple in Chitai, Almora

Temple gate of Golu Devta temple in Chitai, Almora

Bells placed by devotees inside Golu Devta temple in Chitai, Almora

Inside view of Golu Devta temple in Chitai, Almora

Golu Devata is thought to be as an incarnation of Gaur Bhairav (Lord Shiva), and is worshipped all over the region and regarded as the dispenser of justice by the devotees with extreme faith.  Historically, he is considered as the brave son and General of Katyuri King, Jhal Rai and his mother was Kalindra, and his grandfather was Hal Rai and great-grandfather was Hal Rai. Historically the origin of Golu Devata is accepted at Champawat in Uttarakhand. His mother Kalindra is believed to be the sister of two other local deities Harishchand Devjyun (the divine spirit of Raja Harish of the Chands) and Sem Devjyun and both these deities are regarded by the locals as uncles of Lord Golu.  Another legend suggests that he was a General in the army of the Chand King , Baz Bahadur (1638–78), and died displaying exemplary valour at war, the temple at Chitai was erected in his honour, 8 km from Almora city.  On the other hand another legend says that Golu Devta was killed by the king of Binsar  due to some false doubt, and he was beheaded by the king and his body fell at Gairad at Dana Golu and his head fell at Kaparkhan, near modern day Binsar, a few km from Almora. At Dana Golu, there is the original and most ancient temple of Golu Devta.  The most popular story, however, about Gwalla talks of a local king who, while hunting, sent his servants to look for water. The servants disturbed a woman who was praying. The woman, in a fit of anger, taunted the king that he could not separate two fighting bulls and proceeded to do so herself. The king was very impressed by this deed and he married the lady. When this queen got a son, the other queens, who were jealous of her, placed a stone in its place and the child in a cage and put the cage into the river. The child was brought up by a fisherman. When the boy grew up he took a wooden horse to the river and on being questioned by the queens, he replied that if women can give birth to stone, then wooden horses can drink water. When the king heard about this, he punished the guilty queens and crowned the boy, who went on to be known as Gwalla devata.  Golu Devta is seen in form of Lord Shiva, his brother Kalva Devta is in form on Bhairava and Garh Devi is form of Shakti. Golu Devta is also prayed as key deity (Ista/Kula Devta) in many villages of Chamoli. Normally  a three days puja or a 9 days puja  ritual is performed to worship Lord Golu Devta also known as Goreel Devta in Chamoli District. Golu Devta is offered Ghee, Milk, Curd, Halwa, Poori, Pakauri (in order – Clarified butter, sweetmeat made out of wheat coarse flour, fried bread made out of bread flour, fried snacks made with chick pea flour batter & vegetables) and head of the sacrificed goat. Usually, two male goats are sacrificed (Bali is performed), preferably of black colored ones. One is sacrificed inside the temple complex of Golu devta and the other outside temple in a remote location. The sacrificed goat is received as ‘prasada’ of Puja. Golu devta is known as God of justice and prayed with great pride and enthusiasm. Golu Devta is offered with White Cloths, white pagari and white shaal.  Having visited the temple and performed the Puja/ceremony, we were famished by then and immediately proceeded to have our lunch at the nearby dhaba/local eatery joint.

Monsoon magic - all green valleys

Panoramic view of Almora township - view from road to Ranikhet

Sunrise over the distant Himalayan ranges - view from Ranikhet

Sunrise view from Ranikhet

As the clouds gather in the valleys below - view from Ranikhet

          Having have had our lunch, we immediately proceeded towards Ranikhet as we wished to reach there at the earliest before nightfall.  Although it was about 2-3 hours journey, but because of bad road conditions at certain sections, we were delayed and the intense fog & clouds added to our misery and it had already started raining by the time we reached Ranikhet.  As we were quite tired, after partaking dinner early we retired early to bed.  The next morning we got up to a bright new day, the cloud cover had all but disappeared and a glorious view of the sunrise over the Himalayan ranges enlivened our spirits.  There was a nip in the air due to overnight rains and we walked out to the adjacent market and had piping hot ginger tea (local tea with pieces of ginger boiled with water).  Since it was a pilgrimage tour, after having bathed we all headed for Binsar Mahadev temple that is situated at a distance of about 19 Kms. from Ranikhet.  I am not narrating the details of the place as I have already posted a detailed blog about this place and whose link is as follows - http://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.in/2013/03/ranikhet-meadow-of-queen-revisited.html.

Begonia bloom in Bhowali

Another variety of Begonia bloom in Bhowali

White Begonia bloom in Bhowali

Close-up of Begonia bloom in Bhowali

An ornamental plant after rains in Sattal

Morning glory

         After paying our obeisance at the famed Binsar Mahadev temple, we ambled back to Saattal on my request, with the intent of photographing some birds in the area.  But as the luck would have it, as soon as we reached Saatal around noon, the weather took a turn for the worse and it started pouring cats & dogs literally.  We could no do anything but to wait it out and the weather remained down under the next day too and as I was using a prime mirror lens with an minimum aperture of f/6.3, the low light conditions took away any chances of my photographing any of the exotic birds, but I did try to shoot some and the results are there to see, although not upto the mark.  After this short but rejuvenating break, we headed back to Delhi and the rains kept us company all the way back upto Delhi.

Black Drongo on its perch - Sattal

Asian barred Owlet - Sattal

Orange Minivet - shot against the light - Sattal

Orange Minivet - on the canopy camouflaged - Sattal 

White chinned laughing thrush - Sattal

Grey headed Canary  flycatcher - Sattal