Syalsaur – the non-existent village

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Syalsaur – the non-existent village
(A photo blog)

As the morning sun lights up the Kedarnath peaks - view from Syalsaur

After spending some quality time at Devprayag we headed toward the final destination of the day i.e. Syalsaur.  From Devprayag, the road runs along the right bank of the river Alaknanda for a distance of 29 km up to a small township Kirtinagar, which was founded by one of the former Maharajas of Tehri Garhwal named Kirti Shah. Here Alaknanda is crossed over on a bridge to its left bank and then after traversing a further distance of 6 km comes the town of Srinagar. The road from Devprayag to Srinagar is all level driving without much of climbs or downhill runs.  The road traverses through some small villages namely Bagwan, Maletha and Kirti Nagar.  After crossing Srinagar, which is also a significant and historically important seat of modern learning, associated with the Garhwal University established here by the British in late 1920’s, is still known to be a seat of learning, where NIIT and other modern teaching establishments flourish.  The township of Srinagar is also known for the holy temple dedicated to Goddess Dhari Devi.  The statue inside the temple is said to change its colour in the reflection during various phases of the day.  Despite protest by locals for not disturbing the temple, which was to be relocated from original position due to construction of dam downstream, the relocation was undertaken on 10^th June, 2013 and within three days the devastation in form of unprecedented floods shook the entire region on 13^th June, 2013 wherein thousands of human lives and livestock perished and caused irreparable loss to property.  The devastation that took place is still attributed by the local people to the wrath of Goddess Dhari Devi. 

As River Alaknanda meanders beyond Devprayag

Green terraced fields on the road side

Approaching Srinagar town

The River Alaknanda widens as we near Srinagar town

Traversing a further distance of 33 Kms. alongside the Alaknanda River, we reached Rudra prayag, which is another confluence on the holy Ganga River.  This confluence is that of Alaknanda River with Mandakini River flowing in from Kedarnath.  I will provide you all with a brief detail about this destination in one of my ensuing blogs, as due to paucity of time, we did not have a stop over here during our journey, so as to reach Syalsaur in time i.e. before the evening set in.  From Rudraprayag, the road again bifurcates, the road that runs along Alaknanda River heads towards Badrinath and the other one that crosses the Alaknanda River heads towards Kedarnath and this road runs along the mesmerizing Mandakini River.   Having gone past small, but well known townships of Tilwara and Agast Muni and after having traversed a distance of 28 Kms. from Rudraprayag we finally reached Syalsaur, which is actually a non-existent village, with only wilderness and a single house and a silk breeding center, parked in between the villages of Chandrapuri and Banswara of Rudraprayag district of the Uttarakhand State.  Having covered a distance of 165 odd kilometres during the entire day, that included a small stop over after Dev Prayag in a small home run café of sorts, where we had some really nice noodles & Coffee, we reached Syalsaur late in the afternoon and as the lunch hour was over, we ordered some pakodas etc. being famished and tired.  Being the only occupants of the TRH, the entire staff was ready to receive and provide for us and we enjoyed our grand stay.

The gate leading upto Dhari Devi temple near Srinagar

Distant view of Dhari Devi temple 

Headed towards Rudraprayag

Going past Tilwara

Going past Agast Muni

Reached Syalsaur finally

This nondescript little destination i.e. Syalsaur, which houses the Tourist Rest House run by the Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam Ltd. (GMVN) is perched at an altitude of about 870 meters above mean sea lever (MSL) and provides for accommodation in bamboo cottages that are speckled alongside the pristine Mandakini River, with its turquoise water spluttering on the rocks and the distant Kedarnath peaks looming over the valley.  It is a very beautiful location, calmness and serenity personified and for the tormented souls, to spend a few days in bliss, away from the hustle and bustle of city life. Pilgrims to Kedarnath can stay here, the holy place is about 55 km from Syalsaur.  Being a virgin destination, Syalsaur itself was home to about thirteen odd hotels, constructed in a row facing the serene Mandakini River.   All of them, including the GMVN run one, were destroyed during the ravaging floods of 2013 and I have garnered some photographs from the internet showing the location of the GMVN run TRH then and you can compare the same with my present video.  The only hotel that withstood the ravage and remained standing was built away from the river. 

The Kedarnath peaks - early morning view from Syalsaur

Photo sourced from internet to show the pre-2013 position of TRH at Syalsaur

Photo (2) sourced from internet to show the pre-2013 position of TRH at Syalsaur

Here is the link to the video for the destination

Towards Badrinath

Chardham Badrinath - the holiest of the shrines (Part I)

The four dhams that comprise the 'Chardham yatra' are - Yamunotri, Gangotri, Kedarnath & Badrinath. I have already covered the visit to the first three dhams which were covered by me during June, 2007 itself. As regards Badrinath, I had visited the place way back in 2001 in my Maruti 800 car, which I found to be equal to the task entrusted to it. The ideal window for visiting any of the four dhams is the first fortnight of June or last week of May. Accordingly, I had visited Badrinath during the second & third week of June in 2001.

The best part of the journey to Badrinath is the fact that the road leads right upto to the temple door with hardly ten minutes walk from the designated parking area across Alaknanda and therefore, the old and weak also can perform this leg of journey without any difficulty. The distance from Delhi to Badrinath is about 575 Kms. and should be taken up in three stages but many tend to do it at single strech or at best in two parts. But the most comfortable, if you have ample time in your handsand if you break up the journey into three parts. We started from Delhi at around 5.00 A.M. and after usual break at Cheetal Grand, Khatauli for morning b'fast reached Rishikesh at around 12.00 noon. We had made booking in the paid dharamshala of 'Baba Kali Kamli Wale', who have an elaborate network of dharamsalas all through the route to all the dhams. The facility of a double bed room with attached bath was provided @ Rs.150/- per day during 2001, which now stands revised to Rs.600/- to Rs.900/- per day as on date. The distance covered between Delhi to Rishikesh is approximately 260 Kms. Apart from this the 'Gharwal Mandal Vikas Nigam' also have a elaborate network of tourist bunglows/rest houses/hotels etc. Rishikesh has many small places around to be explored and one can go though my travelogue posted, specifically covering Rishikesh & around -

View of Rishikesh acrossRam Jhoola -

After staying overnight at Rishikesh, we started early next morning towards Rudraprayag our next stop over which is at a distance of 139 Kms. from Rishikesh. Having passed Rishikesh, the scenic beauty of the Ganges valley upwards of Rishikesh was mesmerizing and this being my first visit to Uttaranchal, I was awestruck by the natures marvel -

Ganga upstream Rishikesh -

Another view of Ganga upstream Rishikesh -

Bridge connecting village on otherside - upstream Rishikesh

Having travelled around 70 Kms. upstream of Rishikesh we reached Deoprayag, which is birth place of river Ganga, as it is known and is the confluence of rivers Bhagirathi (emnating from Kedarnath) & Alaknanda (emnating from Badrinath). As per Hindu mythology, in case one performs the water abolution for one's ancestors at Deo prayag, he quenches their eternal thirst and is not required to perform the ceremony for his ancestors during is life time. Although the climb down to Deo prayag is very steep but we made it to the base of the confluence for offering puja there -

Birds eye view of the Deoprayag -

Deoprayag - the confluence - observe muddy Alaknanda on your left & clear Bhagirathi on your right -

However, during my current visit I was totally disappointed, as the flow of mighty Bhagirathi has become a trickle now, due to the construction of dam at tehri. It was god's will that I experienced the river in its hey days, in all its' might & fury. After performing the puja we trudged back to our car and the climb was hard and ardous. Since almost four hours had lapsed between the time we left Rishikesh till we finished our Puja at Deoprayag. Fatigued & famished we headed for the nearest eating joint for having light refreshments. The next stage of the journey took us to Srinagar which is another 35 Kms. from Deoprayag and enroute we stopped at many places to pay our homage to the wonder of nature.

How green is my valley - beyond Deoprayag

The river valley at Srinagar, Gharwal

As stated above, since we were frolicking around and enjoying the imbibing the natures' spirit, stopping where ever and when ever we came across a natures' jewel, by the time we reached Srinagar it was past lunch time and we had our hearts fill at one of the many small resturants/dhabas that the lined across the road side. The place has become very congested now, as compared tomy visit in 2001. Having had our lunch we launched ourselves for the last leg for the day i.e. Rudraprayag, which is another 34 Kms. ahead of Srinagar. Rudraprayag is the confluence of rivers Mandakini (from Kedarnath) and river Alaknanda (from Badrinath).

Rudraprayag panorama - road leads to Kedarnath from opposite side -

A closer view of Rudraprayag confluence -

Close-up view of the confluence at Rudraprayag - observe clear blue water of Mandakini (flowing from Kedarnath) on upper side and muddy water of Alaknanda (flowing from Badrinath) below -

Thedinconjured up by the roaring waterat the base of the prayag is stupendous and it is difficult to communicate even after shouting aloud due theenormouscrashing soundcreated by the roaring waters. The dharmashala where we put up was just above the prayag and we imbibed the nature's gift to the hilt. After a good nights rest we again started for the final stretch of the journey to Badrinath early next morning. The road upwards of of Rudraprayag gains height quickly but the views of the river valley upstream becomes more enchanting the mesmerizing -

View of river valley Alaknanda upstream Rudraprayag - This stretch is really mesmerizing & picturesque -

Having passed Rudraprayag, our next stop over was Karnaprayag having passed though Gholtir(10 Kms. from Rudraprayag) & Gaucher (20 Kms. from Rudraprayag).Karnprayag is another confluence of Pindar Ganga (flowing from Pindari glacier) and Alaknanda at a distance of 31 Kms. from Rudraprayag. As there was some bridge construction work under progress, I could not get a very good shot of the prayag, but I got on roof top of a house nearby and shot a picture and am posting the same, as I do not have a better photograph and I beleive in the philosophy that 'something is better than nothing'.

Part view of Karnaprayag - confluence of Pindar Ganga & Alaknanda

After having some light refreshments at Karnaprayg, we pushed forward and reached Nand prayag at a distance of 22 kms. from Karnprayag and is the meeting point or confluence ofNandakini (flowing from Nanda devi) & Alaknanda.

Close up of Nandakini (flowing from Nanda Devi peak) & Alaknanda - at Nandprayag

Thereafter, passing through Chamoli, Birahi, Pipalkoti, Garur Ganga, Tangani & Helang we reached Joshimath at around 1.00 P.M. At this junction the traffic going uphill & those coming downhill from Badrinath is controlled, since the roads are very narrow and only one way traffic is permitted. This excercise is again repeated at Govindghat also, wherefrom some of thepilgrims & tourists head towards Hemkunt sahib & Valley of flowers respectively.

View of distant Vishnu prayag down below in valley from Joshimath - confluence of Dhauli ganga & Alaknanda -

View of Alaknanda from Govindghat -

Having had our lunch at Joshimath we embarked upon the final stretch of journey towards Badrinath at 2.00 P.M when the gates were thrown open to the uphill bound traffic. After traversing a distance of 20 Kms. odd we reached Govindghat and again waited there for the downhill traffic to pass. Thereafter, after negotiating a stiff climb with very adverse slope gradient, we passed through Pandukeshwar, Hanumanchatti and Deo Darshani and having traversed a distance of 28 Kms. from Govindghat finally reached the abode of lord Badrinath at around 4.30 P.M. in the evening (covering a distance of 159 Kms. from Rudraprayag). However, the sceinc beauty across this stretch was another of the natures' marvellous architecture -

Snow bound - glaciers close-up above high mountains beyond Gaurikund

(All my photographs have been shot by manual SLR camera using appropriate lenses as required - however,in certain photographs there are vertical lines which are a result of the scanning done by me.)

Next part of the travelogue shall constitute the visit to the famed shrine as well as surrounding spots - I stayed at Badrinath for three days.