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Rudraprayag – the confluence of holy rivers

The famed Rudranath temple in Rudraprayag

As we started our return journey back from Syalsaur, I had made it a point to revisit Rudraprayag (having visiting the famed destination way back in June, 2001 – here is the link to my previous blog - https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2011/12/towards-badrinath.html).  Having traversed a few kilometres we had reached Agastmuni, although very few travellers stop by this holy township that is named after the Sage who goes by the same name and there is a temple dedicated to him in this township.  However, we too did not stop here as we had to reach Haridwar before commencement of the evening Ganga Aarti there. 

Going past Agasthmuni

Rudrapryag from other side - shot during my visit in 2001

Close up of Rudraprayag from the town side - shot during my visit in 2001

Rudraprayag from the opposite side of the town - shot in 2018

            Rudrapryag is at a distance of about 19 Kms. from Agastmuni township and the road runs along the tranquil Mandakini River that emanates from the Kedarnath region.   Rudra Prayag is a small township that is located in the state of Uttarakhand and in the district that goes by the same name. The town is situated at the confluence of the River Alaknanda and River Mandakini, perched at an altitude of 610 meters. Some locals describe the place, as where the two rivers resembling like two sisters embrace each other and there is a quaint mystery about the place.  The entire district is steeped in immense natural beauty and one can visit many a famed holy destinations other that trekking destinations encompassing lakes, glaciers, rivers and streams here. There are a few temples that are located in the town as well and these are a must visit while travelling to Rudra Prayag.  The main temple that sits at the confluence is known as Rudranath temple that is dedicated to Lord Shiva and the town also gets its name from the same.  The township is all the more important for the Chardham Yatra as it is the destination wherefrom the road splits towards Kedarnath, after crossing the bridge across Alaknanda River and the other road, after crossing the township, heads straight towards Badrinath along the Alaknanda River.

As the Mandakini flows in from Kedarnath side at Rudraprayag

Rudraprayag the confluence of Mandakini & Alaknanada Rivers

The close-up shot of Rudraprayag confluence - Alaknanda & Mandakini meeting

A panoramic view of Rudraprayag

As the River Ganga meanders amongst the hills

We gradually head back towards the plains of Haridwar

            Mythology of the region states that the Narad Muni (a holy sage) has meditated and prayed for years together to please Lord Shiva so as to gain expertise in music.  Through his dedicated worship, Lord Shiva was pleased to bless him and appeared before Narad Muni in his ‘Rudra Avtaram’ (a fierce form of Lord Shiva) at this confluence and the temple was built and dedicated to Lord Shiva since.  The confluence of Alaknanda with Mandakini is one of the holiest of confluences amongst the ‘Panch Prayag’ (Holy confluences of holy River Ganga) and the others being Dev Prayag (wherefrom Ganga River emerges as one and is considered as the holiest) followed by Nandprayag (confluence on Alaknanda and Nandakini Rivers the latter emanating from the Nanda Devi glacier),  Karanprayag (this confluence is of Alaknanda and Pidar Ganga Rivers and the latter emanating from Pindari glacier) and Vishnuprayag (the confluence of Alaknanda with Dhauli Ganga River and the latter emanates from the Niti pass region).  Having spent some time trying to get some shots of the confluence albeit across the light, we headed back towards the plains for our next halt for the night i.e. Haridwar.

Here is a short video of the destination -

© S. Roy Biswas

Syalsaur – the non-existent village

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Syalsaur – the non-existent village
(A photo blog)

As the morning sun lights up the Kedarnath peaks - view from Syalsaur

After spending some quality time at Devprayag we headed toward the final destination of the day i.e. Syalsaur.  From Devprayag, the road runs along the right bank of the river Alaknanda for a distance of 29 km up to a small township Kirtinagar, which was founded by one of the former Maharajas of Tehri Garhwal named Kirti Shah. Here Alaknanda is crossed over on a bridge to its left bank and then after traversing a further distance of 6 km comes the town of Srinagar. The road from Devprayag to Srinagar is all level driving without much of climbs or downhill runs.  The road traverses through some small villages namely Bagwan, Maletha and Kirti Nagar.  After crossing Srinagar, which is also a significant and historically important seat of modern learning, associated with the Garhwal University established here by the British in late 1920’s, is still known to be a seat of learning, where NIIT and other modern teaching establishments flourish.  The township of Srinagar is also known for the holy temple dedicated to Goddess Dhari Devi.  The statue inside the temple is said to change its colour in the reflection during various phases of the day.  Despite protest by locals for not disturbing the temple, which was to be relocated from original position due to construction of dam downstream, the relocation was undertaken on 10^th June, 2013 and within three days the devastation in form of unprecedented floods shook the entire region on 13^th June, 2013 wherein thousands of human lives and livestock perished and caused irreparable loss to property.  The devastation that took place is still attributed by the local people to the wrath of Goddess Dhari Devi. 

As River Alaknanda meanders beyond Devprayag

Green terraced fields on the road side

Approaching Srinagar town

The River Alaknanda widens as we near Srinagar town

Traversing a further distance of 33 Kms. alongside the Alaknanda River, we reached Rudra prayag, which is another confluence on the holy Ganga River.  This confluence is that of Alaknanda River with Mandakini River flowing in from Kedarnath.  I will provide you all with a brief detail about this destination in one of my ensuing blogs, as due to paucity of time, we did not have a stop over here during our journey, so as to reach Syalsaur in time i.e. before the evening set in.  From Rudraprayag, the road again bifurcates, the road that runs along Alaknanda River heads towards Badrinath and the other one that crosses the Alaknanda River heads towards Kedarnath and this road runs along the mesmerizing Mandakini River.   Having gone past small, but well known townships of Tilwara and Agast Muni and after having traversed a distance of 28 Kms. from Rudraprayag we finally reached Syalsaur, which is actually a non-existent village, with only wilderness and a single house and a silk breeding center, parked in between the villages of Chandrapuri and Banswara of Rudraprayag district of the Uttarakhand State.  Having covered a distance of 165 odd kilometres during the entire day, that included a small stop over after Dev Prayag in a small home run café of sorts, where we had some really nice noodles & Coffee, we reached Syalsaur late in the afternoon and as the lunch hour was over, we ordered some pakodas etc. being famished and tired.  Being the only occupants of the TRH, the entire staff was ready to receive and provide for us and we enjoyed our grand stay.

The gate leading upto Dhari Devi temple near Srinagar

Distant view of Dhari Devi temple 

Headed towards Rudraprayag

Going past Tilwara

Going past Agast Muni

Reached Syalsaur finally

This nondescript little destination i.e. Syalsaur, which houses the Tourist Rest House run by the Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam Ltd. (GMVN) is perched at an altitude of about 870 meters above mean sea lever (MSL) and provides for accommodation in bamboo cottages that are speckled alongside the pristine Mandakini River, with its turquoise water spluttering on the rocks and the distant Kedarnath peaks looming over the valley.  It is a very beautiful location, calmness and serenity personified and for the tormented souls, to spend a few days in bliss, away from the hustle and bustle of city life. Pilgrims to Kedarnath can stay here, the holy place is about 55 km from Syalsaur.  Being a virgin destination, Syalsaur itself was home to about thirteen odd hotels, constructed in a row facing the serene Mandakini River.   All of them, including the GMVN run one, were destroyed during the ravaging floods of 2013 and I have garnered some photographs from the internet showing the location of the GMVN run TRH then and you can compare the same with my present video.  The only hotel that withstood the ravage and remained standing was built away from the river. 

The Kedarnath peaks - early morning view from Syalsaur

Photo sourced from internet to show the pre-2013 position of TRH at Syalsaur

Photo (2) sourced from internet to show the pre-2013 position of TRH at Syalsaur

Here is the link to the video for the destination

Divinity of Devprayag

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Divinity of Devprayag

Dev prayag - close up of Alaknanda & Bhagirati confluence - where from holy River Ganga flows

             Having enjoyed the serene Ganga aarti on the banks of the holy River in Rishikesh the night before, we were all geared up for our day’s journey heading for our next destination i.e. Syalsaur, which was to remain our base camp of sort for exploring some destinations nearby.

Beyond Rishikesh - view of Ganga River valley - shot in 2001 (using Yaschica FX2000 SLR)

Beyond Rishikesh - view of Ganga River valley - shot in 2018 (using Nikon D5300 DSLR)

            We commenced with our journey at around 8.00 A.M in the morning after partaking our Breakfast.  The weather was clear and the winter sun was bright, its warmth was cushioning in the cold morning air.  The journey towards the destination runs along the holy River Ganga and its scenic beauty can mesmerize and rejuvenate any tormented soul.  Although the road requires some repairs, but apparently the tree cutting spree all along the road i.e. National Highway 58 indicates that it will be done alongwith the proposed widening, for construction of all-weather road in the region, for connecting the Chardham destinations.  I was traversing this road almost after ten long years and there has been a tremendous increase in building activity all along the road, but it still retains it old charm of being a picturesque valley.

Rafting in Ganga River 

Close up of  Ganga River 

             Devprayag is situated at a distance of 70 odd kilometres from Rishikesh and as I had instructed the driver to keep a steady pace, so that we could imbue the scenic fragrance of the hills, we expected to reach the destination in about two hours’ time.  Devprayag is a small town snuggled amidst three mountains, whose peaks are considered sacred, named Giddhanchal Parvat, Dashrathanchal Parvat, and Narsinghancal Parvat. Giddhanchal Parvat is on top of Raghunnath Ji temple. Narsinghanchal Parvat is in front of Giddhanchal Parvat and Dashrathanchal Parvat is on top right side of "Sangam".  Devprayag is one of the five prayags that dot the holy River Ganga and the first one while headings from the plains towards the mountains. Perched at an altitude of about 472 meters, Devprayag is a small but religiously significant township in the Tehri District of Uttarakhand. Devprayag, as the name suggests and literal translation would be ‘God’s confluence’, is the site of the confluence of the two rivers - Bhagirathi and Alakananda and from thence it flows out of as the sacred river Ganga.  The Alaknanda flows from the left, and is an eye-catching shade of light blue or a powder blue from Badrinath side; whereas the Bhagirathi is of a light shade of green that flows in from Gangotri. However, the colours change with the change of weather and the colours seem to alternate. 

Meandering in the upper reaches - Ganga River 

Panoramic view of the Ganga River valley

           Devprayag is also otherwise a significant township, as all the pandas of Sri Badrinath temple hail from this town.  Most of the pandas are Bramhins and are scholars in Vedic scriptures.  Their knowledge of Sanskrit comes as a family inheritance from times immemorial. A local pandit called Sri Chakradhar Joshi had established an elaborate observatory known as Vidya Mandir. This institute is considered to be the seat for astronomical and astrological learning in this area. The observatory has a library with a collection of large number of ancient texts and books and hand written manuscripts dealing with subjects of ancient learnings.   This observatory is open to visitors during particular timings during the day, but is at end of a steep climb upwards and hence not for the faint hearted souls.  Devprayag is 47 Kms from Pauri, 74 Kms from Rishikesh, 80 Kms from New Tehri, 93 Kms from Haridwar, 112 Kms from Dehradun, 150 Kms from Kotdwara, 230 Kms from Ranikhet, 303 Kms from Nainital,322 Kms from Kathgodam

A village perched atop a hill side 

Devprayag finds mention in mythological texts also and according to the Ramayana, Lord Rama and King Dasharatha did penance at Devpraryag, to relieve themselves of their sins of Brahmahatya. It is also believed that the Pandavas also performed ablutions at Devprayag before visiting Badrinath to attain salvation, during their journey towards heaver through Swargarohini valley.  The religious significance of Devprayag is further enhanced, as according to the Vaishnavism, Devprayag is one among the 108 Divya Desams or the sacred abodes of Lord Vishnu. Devprayag holds the fifth place among the five sacred river confluences or the Panch Prayag, the other four being Vishnu Prayag, Nand Prayag, Karn Prayag and Rudra Prayag. The piousness of Devprayag is considered equivalent to the Triveni Sangam located at Allahabad.

Panoramic view of Devprayag - shot in 2001 (using Yaschica FX2000 SLR)

Panoramic view of Devprayag - shot in 2018 (using Nikon D5300 DSLR)

          Devprayag houses many temples within its precincts and the temple of Raghunathji is dedicated to lord Rama. The temple is claimed to be 10,000 years old. It is one of the oldest existing temples of India. Raghunathji temple is built of huge stones, meticulously placed one over the other, in a pyramid shape. The temple was destroyed during an earthquake in 1803, and was later rebuilt by Daulat Rao Scindia. The temple compound also hosts Annapurna Devi temple, Hanuman temple, Shankaracharya temple and Garud temple.  Another temple is of Chandrabadani, which is dedicated to the Goddess of power. As per legends, Sati, a consort of Shiva, who had committed suicide due to insults heaped on Lord Shiva by her father and Lord Shiva had picked up her body and started the tandava, the dance of destruction.  Finding no other way to stop Lord Shiva, the Gods decided to decimate the body of Sati into pieces, as the Gods cut off her body parts, her torso fell at this place. Her weapons got scattered in the locality. There are some old statues and lots of iron trishuls (tridents) outside the temple. A fine view of the Sirkanda, Kedarnath and Badrinath peaks can be enjoyed from here.  The other main temple is that of Dashrathshila, which is supposed to be the place where Dashrath, father of lord Rama, performed penance. A small water stream, Shanta, is named after the daughter of Dashratha. The seat of Dashrath is one a small hillock called Dashrathachal Peak.  Besides these temples, there are many other smaller temples, like the Baital Kund, Brahm Kund, Surya Kund, Vashisth Kund, the Indradyumna Tirth, Pushyamal Tirth, Varah Tirth, Pushpavatika, Baitalshila, Varahishila, the shrines of Bhairava, Bhushandi, Durga and Vishveshvara, and a temple dedicated to Bharata. A bath at Baithalshila is claimed to cure leprosy. 

Here is a short video of the destination -