Syalsaur – the non-existent village

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Syalsaur – the non-existent village
(A photo blog)

As the morning sun lights up the Kedarnath peaks - view from Syalsaur

After spending some quality time at Devprayag we headed toward the final destination of the day i.e. Syalsaur.  From Devprayag, the road runs along the right bank of the river Alaknanda for a distance of 29 km up to a small township Kirtinagar, which was founded by one of the former Maharajas of Tehri Garhwal named Kirti Shah. Here Alaknanda is crossed over on a bridge to its left bank and then after traversing a further distance of 6 km comes the town of Srinagar. The road from Devprayag to Srinagar is all level driving without much of climbs or downhill runs.  The road traverses through some small villages namely Bagwan, Maletha and Kirti Nagar.  After crossing Srinagar, which is also a significant and historically important seat of modern learning, associated with the Garhwal University established here by the British in late 1920’s, is still known to be a seat of learning, where NIIT and other modern teaching establishments flourish.  The township of Srinagar is also known for the holy temple dedicated to Goddess Dhari Devi.  The statue inside the temple is said to change its colour in the reflection during various phases of the day.  Despite protest by locals for not disturbing the temple, which was to be relocated from original position due to construction of dam downstream, the relocation was undertaken on 10^th June, 2013 and within three days the devastation in form of unprecedented floods shook the entire region on 13^th June, 2013 wherein thousands of human lives and livestock perished and caused irreparable loss to property.  The devastation that took place is still attributed by the local people to the wrath of Goddess Dhari Devi. 

As River Alaknanda meanders beyond Devprayag

Green terraced fields on the road side

Approaching Srinagar town

The River Alaknanda widens as we near Srinagar town

Traversing a further distance of 33 Kms. alongside the Alaknanda River, we reached Rudra prayag, which is another confluence on the holy Ganga River.  This confluence is that of Alaknanda River with Mandakini River flowing in from Kedarnath.  I will provide you all with a brief detail about this destination in one of my ensuing blogs, as due to paucity of time, we did not have a stop over here during our journey, so as to reach Syalsaur in time i.e. before the evening set in.  From Rudraprayag, the road again bifurcates, the road that runs along Alaknanda River heads towards Badrinath and the other one that crosses the Alaknanda River heads towards Kedarnath and this road runs along the mesmerizing Mandakini River.   Having gone past small, but well known townships of Tilwara and Agast Muni and after having traversed a distance of 28 Kms. from Rudraprayag we finally reached Syalsaur, which is actually a non-existent village, with only wilderness and a single house and a silk breeding center, parked in between the villages of Chandrapuri and Banswara of Rudraprayag district of the Uttarakhand State.  Having covered a distance of 165 odd kilometres during the entire day, that included a small stop over after Dev Prayag in a small home run café of sorts, where we had some really nice noodles & Coffee, we reached Syalsaur late in the afternoon and as the lunch hour was over, we ordered some pakodas etc. being famished and tired.  Being the only occupants of the TRH, the entire staff was ready to receive and provide for us and we enjoyed our grand stay.

The gate leading upto Dhari Devi temple near Srinagar

Distant view of Dhari Devi temple 

Headed towards Rudraprayag

Going past Tilwara

Going past Agast Muni

Reached Syalsaur finally

This nondescript little destination i.e. Syalsaur, which houses the Tourist Rest House run by the Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam Ltd. (GMVN) is perched at an altitude of about 870 meters above mean sea lever (MSL) and provides for accommodation in bamboo cottages that are speckled alongside the pristine Mandakini River, with its turquoise water spluttering on the rocks and the distant Kedarnath peaks looming over the valley.  It is a very beautiful location, calmness and serenity personified and for the tormented souls, to spend a few days in bliss, away from the hustle and bustle of city life. Pilgrims to Kedarnath can stay here, the holy place is about 55 km from Syalsaur.  Being a virgin destination, Syalsaur itself was home to about thirteen odd hotels, constructed in a row facing the serene Mandakini River.   All of them, including the GMVN run one, were destroyed during the ravaging floods of 2013 and I have garnered some photographs from the internet showing the location of the GMVN run TRH then and you can compare the same with my present video.  The only hotel that withstood the ravage and remained standing was built away from the river. 

The Kedarnath peaks - early morning view from Syalsaur

Photo sourced from internet to show the pre-2013 position of TRH at Syalsaur

Photo (2) sourced from internet to show the pre-2013 position of TRH at Syalsaur

Here is the link to the video for the destination

Magnificent Kedarnath

The magnificient Kedarnath

We all had a very good nights sleep at Gaurikund and got up very early in the morning. Having taken bath we started for Kedarnath from Gaurikund and having heard exaggerated tales about the legendary trek, considering that we had to return the same day we engaged dolis/palkis for this leg of the journey. However, in my opinion the trek to Yamunotri is far more difficult as the gradient is not only very steep but is also very narrow as compared to that of Kedarnath. Although the road is lengthy (14 Kms.)and almost double the distance from Yamunotri trek (7 Kms.) but the climb is much gradual and roads much more wider and properly laid out. Having passed the congested bazzar of Gaurikund one reaches the open stretch wherefrom all the ponies and other means of transport converge & start. Although the official rates displayed at Gaurikund are hardly applicable but the same can be used to drive in a hard bargain. The dolis/palkis usually charge around Rs.2500/- for one round trip (with cost of refreshments & fooding to be borne by the hirer), similarly the ponies charge anything upwards of Rs.800/- for a round trip as also the Kandi/Pitthu walas. It is however advisable that the hirer hires only registered operators and these persons have been issued Government licences and the hirer should take these licence in their custody till the time the entire journey is performed. This step ensures that these operators do not disappear to bring in another load and also for identification of your porters. Having got past this crowded spot we started the gradual climb towards Kedarnath and one of the first of the eye catching spots was the Kedar falls -

View of Kedar falls -

Kedar falls close-up -

The porters who carry pilgrims are mostly Nepalis and migrate to Kedarnath in late March early April and stay in batches at Gaurikund. The rooms are provided by the local hotel walahs who do not charge anything forlodging, but these porters have to compulsorily pay fordaily fooding for night at pre-determined rates. Therefore, these porters seek out the daily day fooding expenses from the pilgrims apart from their fee. The porters having got past Gaurikund usually head towards Rambara which is midway at around 7 Kms. from Gaurikund where they take a break for having breakfast -

For young Nepalese porters this particular eating joint is a particular favourite at Rambara being manned by a Nepalese mother daughters combine -

View of Mandakini or Kedar Ganga from the GMVN rest house at Rambara -

After having rested for about half an hour or so at Rambara and having have had their morning breakfast the porters were again ready for launching for the onward journey towards Kedarnath. After Rambara the road gradient becomes a bit stiffer but the distant mountains also appear and there was a definite cold nip in the wind herefrom. Having passed Rambara the sun started making its appearance just behind the lofty mountain peaks and with some clouds drifting around, the natures paintbrush was at its best -

First glimpse of Sun peeping from behind the lofty mountains -

Natures' paintbrush at play over Kedarnath sky -

Enjoying the play of light & clouds, I did not notice that we had climbed almost to the vicinity of Kedarnath -

Distant snow covered Kedarnath peaks -

The mighty Kedarnath peaks close-up -

Awestruck by the scenic beauty all around and totally engrossed in imbibing the ambviance I did not realise that we had reached the footsteps of Kedarnath and temple of Garur appeared at Garur Chatti -

Garur temple at Garur Chatti -

Just beyond Garur Chatti after a sudden spurt ot steep slope ahead we reached a pleatau shaped valley and the Kedarnath temple complex/village surfaced -

First view of the Kedarnath temple valley -

I had reached the point where all the porters disembark their loads at 9.30 A.M sharp but was delayed due to late arrival of others. Having disembarked at the designated spot we walked for a kilometer before reaching the temple gate and by this time clouds also had started shrouding the lofty snow clad mountains above. There was a very big que for the darshan and I stood in the que almost a kilometer & half away from temple gate. Having joined the que at 10.30 A.M. sharp, we were able to have our darshan at around 1.45 P.M. But the panda who had arranged for our darshan fecilitated a good darshan & puja for almost 5-7 minutes, which is an astounding feat in itself looking at the rush of pilgrims inside the sanctum sanctorum. I do not feel the necessity to describe the temple in details and will let the photographs do the talking instead -

Magnificient Kedarnath temple in all its glory -

Peak of Kedarnath temple -

Nandi guarding the doors of Kedarnath temple -

Kedarnath temple door -

Amrit kund behind Kedarnath temple -

Eshaneshwar temple inside the Kedarnath temple complex -

Having completed the puja and darshan, completely anointed with the religious fervour prevalent all around, we proceeded to have our lunch at Bharat Sevashram Sangh canteen. By the time we had finished with our lunch, the weather had become very gloomy and rain too had started petering in droplets. However, I could not stop myself from going astray and appreciating the old 12th century south Indian style architecture still existing in nooks & corner of Kedarnath -

One of the many ancient building architecture surving at Kedarnath -

Mythologically speaking Kedarnath is the seat of Lord Shiva. It is one of the twelve "Jyotirlingas" of Lord Shiva. Lying at an altitude of 3584 m at the head of river Mandakini, the shrine of Kedarnath is amongst the holiest pilgrimage for the Hindus. It is no wonder that Adi Guru Shankaracharya - a great scholar & saint, chose to enshrine Lord Shiva in this land, where the unholy becomes holy and the holy becomes holier. It is the place where Lord Shivaanionted Pandavas from the sin of killing their own cousins Kauravas in the battle of Kurukshetra. The origin of the revered temple can be found in the great epic Mahabharata. Further, accoriding to legend this place came into being after the five Pandavas on advise of sages set forth to seek blessings of lord Shiva to seekhis blessings to be absolved of the sin of having killed or murdered their fellow brothers. However, lord Shiva was in no mood to oblige the Pandavas and therefore, went into hiding to live incognio in Guptkashi.Here he took form of a buffalo and started wandering around and was eventually spotted by Bhima. Seening Bhima in pursuit, lord Shiva tried to evade him by burrowing through the earth, however, Bhima caught hold of his tail and thus, at Kedarnath thehumpportion of the bull remained overground and is worshipped in this form in Kedarnath. This thus became one of the Panch Kedars.The remaining of the four panchkedars are - Navel at Madmaheshwar, Arms at Tungnath, Face at Rudranath and his matted hair at Kalpeshwar.
Beyond the temple of Kedarnath is a path leading through Vasuki tal etc. and is said to lead to heaven called the Mahapath. Another belief that is prevalent in this place is regarding the temple of Bhairon who is supposed to guard the temple of lord Shiva at Kedarnath during the time the temple remains closed during winters from all evil forces. A local folklore narrated by people around is that some greedy villager had stolen some gold ornaments from the temple and the entire village got afflicted by Cholera, which is very uncommon at this high altitudes. Having realized the folly the villager returned the stolen articles and saved the villagers from the wrath of Bhaironathji. There are numerous other small temples scattered around the temple complex.

Brahm kund at Kedarnath -

The weather was deteiorating by the hour and ominous rain clouds started looming large over Kedarnath -
Rain clouds looming over Kedarnath valley -

Due the deteriorating weather conditions, the helicopter services were also being announced for early departure -

Helicopter flying out of Kedarnath valley -


However, there are many fake sadhus who have made Kedarnath their home and fleece the pilgrims on some pretext or the other.
Sadhu - fake or original?

We concluded this leg of the journey by returning to Gaurikund late in the evening. Thereafter, on the next day we started for our journey backvia Rudraprayag, Deo prayag, Srinagar, Rishikesh to Haridwar. We stayed at Haridwar for the night and proceeded for Delhi earlynext morning.

Check out the video of Kedarnath  -

(I had visited Badrinath temple way back in 2001 and would narrate the journey in next part to conclude the Chardham yatra travelogue.)