Towards Badrinath

Chardham Badrinath - the holiest of the shrines (Part I)

The four dhams that comprise the 'Chardham yatra' are - Yamunotri, Gangotri, Kedarnath & Badrinath. I have already covered the visit to the first three dhams which were covered by me during June, 2007 itself. As regards Badrinath, I had visited the place way back in 2001 in my Maruti 800 car, which I found to be equal to the task entrusted to it. The ideal window for visiting any of the four dhams is the first fortnight of June or last week of May. Accordingly, I had visited Badrinath during the second & third week of June in 2001.

The best part of the journey to Badrinath is the fact that the road leads right upto to the temple door with hardly ten minutes walk from the designated parking area across Alaknanda and therefore, the old and weak also can perform this leg of journey without any difficulty. The distance from Delhi to Badrinath is about 575 Kms. and should be taken up in three stages but many tend to do it at single strech or at best in two parts. But the most comfortable, if you have ample time in your handsand if you break up the journey into three parts. We started from Delhi at around 5.00 A.M. and after usual break at Cheetal Grand, Khatauli for morning b'fast reached Rishikesh at around 12.00 noon. We had made booking in the paid dharamshala of 'Baba Kali Kamli Wale', who have an elaborate network of dharamsalas all through the route to all the dhams. The facility of a double bed room with attached bath was provided @ Rs.150/- per day during 2001, which now stands revised to Rs.600/- to Rs.900/- per day as on date. The distance covered between Delhi to Rishikesh is approximately 260 Kms. Apart from this the 'Gharwal Mandal Vikas Nigam' also have a elaborate network of tourist bunglows/rest houses/hotels etc. Rishikesh has many small places around to be explored and one can go though my travelogue posted, specifically covering Rishikesh & around -

View of Rishikesh acrossRam Jhoola -

After staying overnight at Rishikesh, we started early next morning towards Rudraprayag our next stop over which is at a distance of 139 Kms. from Rishikesh. Having passed Rishikesh, the scenic beauty of the Ganges valley upwards of Rishikesh was mesmerizing and this being my first visit to Uttaranchal, I was awestruck by the natures marvel -

Ganga upstream Rishikesh -

Another view of Ganga upstream Rishikesh -

Bridge connecting village on otherside - upstream Rishikesh

Having travelled around 70 Kms. upstream of Rishikesh we reached Deoprayag, which is birth place of river Ganga, as it is known and is the confluence of rivers Bhagirathi (emnating from Kedarnath) & Alaknanda (emnating from Badrinath). As per Hindu mythology, in case one performs the water abolution for one's ancestors at Deo prayag, he quenches their eternal thirst and is not required to perform the ceremony for his ancestors during is life time. Although the climb down to Deo prayag is very steep but we made it to the base of the confluence for offering puja there -

Birds eye view of the Deoprayag -

Deoprayag - the confluence - observe muddy Alaknanda on your left & clear Bhagirathi on your right -

However, during my current visit I was totally disappointed, as the flow of mighty Bhagirathi has become a trickle now, due to the construction of dam at tehri. It was god's will that I experienced the river in its hey days, in all its' might & fury. After performing the puja we trudged back to our car and the climb was hard and ardous. Since almost four hours had lapsed between the time we left Rishikesh till we finished our Puja at Deoprayag. Fatigued & famished we headed for the nearest eating joint for having light refreshments. The next stage of the journey took us to Srinagar which is another 35 Kms. from Deoprayag and enroute we stopped at many places to pay our homage to the wonder of nature.

How green is my valley - beyond Deoprayag

The river valley at Srinagar, Gharwal

As stated above, since we were frolicking around and enjoying the imbibing the natures' spirit, stopping where ever and when ever we came across a natures' jewel, by the time we reached Srinagar it was past lunch time and we had our hearts fill at one of the many small resturants/dhabas that the lined across the road side. The place has become very congested now, as compared tomy visit in 2001. Having had our lunch we launched ourselves for the last leg for the day i.e. Rudraprayag, which is another 34 Kms. ahead of Srinagar. Rudraprayag is the confluence of rivers Mandakini (from Kedarnath) and river Alaknanda (from Badrinath).

Rudraprayag panorama - road leads to Kedarnath from opposite side -

A closer view of Rudraprayag confluence -

Close-up view of the confluence at Rudraprayag - observe clear blue water of Mandakini (flowing from Kedarnath) on upper side and muddy water of Alaknanda (flowing from Badrinath) below -

Thedinconjured up by the roaring waterat the base of the prayag is stupendous and it is difficult to communicate even after shouting aloud due theenormouscrashing soundcreated by the roaring waters. The dharmashala where we put up was just above the prayag and we imbibed the nature's gift to the hilt. After a good nights rest we again started for the final stretch of the journey to Badrinath early next morning. The road upwards of of Rudraprayag gains height quickly but the views of the river valley upstream becomes more enchanting the mesmerizing -

View of river valley Alaknanda upstream Rudraprayag - This stretch is really mesmerizing & picturesque -

Having passed Rudraprayag, our next stop over was Karnaprayag having passed though Gholtir(10 Kms. from Rudraprayag) & Gaucher (20 Kms. from Rudraprayag).Karnprayag is another confluence of Pindar Ganga (flowing from Pindari glacier) and Alaknanda at a distance of 31 Kms. from Rudraprayag. As there was some bridge construction work under progress, I could not get a very good shot of the prayag, but I got on roof top of a house nearby and shot a picture and am posting the same, as I do not have a better photograph and I beleive in the philosophy that 'something is better than nothing'.

Part view of Karnaprayag - confluence of Pindar Ganga & Alaknanda

After having some light refreshments at Karnaprayg, we pushed forward and reached Nand prayag at a distance of 22 kms. from Karnprayag and is the meeting point or confluence ofNandakini (flowing from Nanda devi) & Alaknanda.

Close up of Nandakini (flowing from Nanda Devi peak) & Alaknanda - at Nandprayag

Thereafter, passing through Chamoli, Birahi, Pipalkoti, Garur Ganga, Tangani & Helang we reached Joshimath at around 1.00 P.M. At this junction the traffic going uphill & those coming downhill from Badrinath is controlled, since the roads are very narrow and only one way traffic is permitted. This excercise is again repeated at Govindghat also, wherefrom some of thepilgrims & tourists head towards Hemkunt sahib & Valley of flowers respectively.

View of distant Vishnu prayag down below in valley from Joshimath - confluence of Dhauli ganga & Alaknanda -

View of Alaknanda from Govindghat -

Having had our lunch at Joshimath we embarked upon the final stretch of journey towards Badrinath at 2.00 P.M when the gates were thrown open to the uphill bound traffic. After traversing a distance of 20 Kms. odd we reached Govindghat and again waited there for the downhill traffic to pass. Thereafter, after negotiating a stiff climb with very adverse slope gradient, we passed through Pandukeshwar, Hanumanchatti and Deo Darshani and having traversed a distance of 28 Kms. from Govindghat finally reached the abode of lord Badrinath at around 4.30 P.M. in the evening (covering a distance of 159 Kms. from Rudraprayag). However, the sceinc beauty across this stretch was another of the natures' marvellous architecture -

Snow bound - glaciers close-up above high mountains beyond Gaurikund

(All my photographs have been shot by manual SLR camera using appropriate lenses as required - however,in certain photographs there are vertical lines which are a result of the scanning done by me.)

Next part of the travelogue shall constitute the visit to the famed shrine as well as surrounding spots - I stayed at Badrinath for three days.

Magnificent Kedarnath

The magnificient Kedarnath

We all had a very good nights sleep at Gaurikund and got up very early in the morning. Having taken bath we started for Kedarnath from Gaurikund and having heard exaggerated tales about the legendary trek, considering that we had to return the same day we engaged dolis/palkis for this leg of the journey. However, in my opinion the trek to Yamunotri is far more difficult as the gradient is not only very steep but is also very narrow as compared to that of Kedarnath. Although the road is lengthy (14 Kms.)and almost double the distance from Yamunotri trek (7 Kms.) but the climb is much gradual and roads much more wider and properly laid out. Having passed the congested bazzar of Gaurikund one reaches the open stretch wherefrom all the ponies and other means of transport converge & start. Although the official rates displayed at Gaurikund are hardly applicable but the same can be used to drive in a hard bargain. The dolis/palkis usually charge around Rs.2500/- for one round trip (with cost of refreshments & fooding to be borne by the hirer), similarly the ponies charge anything upwards of Rs.800/- for a round trip as also the Kandi/Pitthu walas. It is however advisable that the hirer hires only registered operators and these persons have been issued Government licences and the hirer should take these licence in their custody till the time the entire journey is performed. This step ensures that these operators do not disappear to bring in another load and also for identification of your porters. Having got past this crowded spot we started the gradual climb towards Kedarnath and one of the first of the eye catching spots was the Kedar falls -

View of Kedar falls -

Kedar falls close-up -

The porters who carry pilgrims are mostly Nepalis and migrate to Kedarnath in late March early April and stay in batches at Gaurikund. The rooms are provided by the local hotel walahs who do not charge anything forlodging, but these porters have to compulsorily pay fordaily fooding for night at pre-determined rates. Therefore, these porters seek out the daily day fooding expenses from the pilgrims apart from their fee. The porters having got past Gaurikund usually head towards Rambara which is midway at around 7 Kms. from Gaurikund where they take a break for having breakfast -

For young Nepalese porters this particular eating joint is a particular favourite at Rambara being manned by a Nepalese mother daughters combine -

View of Mandakini or Kedar Ganga from the GMVN rest house at Rambara -

After having rested for about half an hour or so at Rambara and having have had their morning breakfast the porters were again ready for launching for the onward journey towards Kedarnath. After Rambara the road gradient becomes a bit stiffer but the distant mountains also appear and there was a definite cold nip in the wind herefrom. Having passed Rambara the sun started making its appearance just behind the lofty mountain peaks and with some clouds drifting around, the natures paintbrush was at its best -

First glimpse of Sun peeping from behind the lofty mountains -

Natures' paintbrush at play over Kedarnath sky -

Enjoying the play of light & clouds, I did not notice that we had climbed almost to the vicinity of Kedarnath -

Distant snow covered Kedarnath peaks -

The mighty Kedarnath peaks close-up -

Awestruck by the scenic beauty all around and totally engrossed in imbibing the ambviance I did not realise that we had reached the footsteps of Kedarnath and temple of Garur appeared at Garur Chatti -

Garur temple at Garur Chatti -

Just beyond Garur Chatti after a sudden spurt ot steep slope ahead we reached a pleatau shaped valley and the Kedarnath temple complex/village surfaced -

First view of the Kedarnath temple valley -

I had reached the point where all the porters disembark their loads at 9.30 A.M sharp but was delayed due to late arrival of others. Having disembarked at the designated spot we walked for a kilometer before reaching the temple gate and by this time clouds also had started shrouding the lofty snow clad mountains above. There was a very big que for the darshan and I stood in the que almost a kilometer & half away from temple gate. Having joined the que at 10.30 A.M. sharp, we were able to have our darshan at around 1.45 P.M. But the panda who had arranged for our darshan fecilitated a good darshan & puja for almost 5-7 minutes, which is an astounding feat in itself looking at the rush of pilgrims inside the sanctum sanctorum. I do not feel the necessity to describe the temple in details and will let the photographs do the talking instead -

Magnificient Kedarnath temple in all its glory -

Peak of Kedarnath temple -

Nandi guarding the doors of Kedarnath temple -

Kedarnath temple door -

Amrit kund behind Kedarnath temple -

Eshaneshwar temple inside the Kedarnath temple complex -

Having completed the puja and darshan, completely anointed with the religious fervour prevalent all around, we proceeded to have our lunch at Bharat Sevashram Sangh canteen. By the time we had finished with our lunch, the weather had become very gloomy and rain too had started petering in droplets. However, I could not stop myself from going astray and appreciating the old 12th century south Indian style architecture still existing in nooks & corner of Kedarnath -

One of the many ancient building architecture surving at Kedarnath -

Mythologically speaking Kedarnath is the seat of Lord Shiva. It is one of the twelve "Jyotirlingas" of Lord Shiva. Lying at an altitude of 3584 m at the head of river Mandakini, the shrine of Kedarnath is amongst the holiest pilgrimage for the Hindus. It is no wonder that Adi Guru Shankaracharya - a great scholar & saint, chose to enshrine Lord Shiva in this land, where the unholy becomes holy and the holy becomes holier. It is the place where Lord Shivaanionted Pandavas from the sin of killing their own cousins Kauravas in the battle of Kurukshetra. The origin of the revered temple can be found in the great epic Mahabharata. Further, accoriding to legend this place came into being after the five Pandavas on advise of sages set forth to seek blessings of lord Shiva to seekhis blessings to be absolved of the sin of having killed or murdered their fellow brothers. However, lord Shiva was in no mood to oblige the Pandavas and therefore, went into hiding to live incognio in Guptkashi.Here he took form of a buffalo and started wandering around and was eventually spotted by Bhima. Seening Bhima in pursuit, lord Shiva tried to evade him by burrowing through the earth, however, Bhima caught hold of his tail and thus, at Kedarnath thehumpportion of the bull remained overground and is worshipped in this form in Kedarnath. This thus became one of the Panch Kedars.The remaining of the four panchkedars are - Navel at Madmaheshwar, Arms at Tungnath, Face at Rudranath and his matted hair at Kalpeshwar.
Beyond the temple of Kedarnath is a path leading through Vasuki tal etc. and is said to lead to heaven called the Mahapath. Another belief that is prevalent in this place is regarding the temple of Bhairon who is supposed to guard the temple of lord Shiva at Kedarnath during the time the temple remains closed during winters from all evil forces. A local folklore narrated by people around is that some greedy villager had stolen some gold ornaments from the temple and the entire village got afflicted by Cholera, which is very uncommon at this high altitudes. Having realized the folly the villager returned the stolen articles and saved the villagers from the wrath of Bhaironathji. There are numerous other small temples scattered around the temple complex.

Brahm kund at Kedarnath -

The weather was deteiorating by the hour and ominous rain clouds started looming large over Kedarnath -
Rain clouds looming over Kedarnath valley -

Due the deteriorating weather conditions, the helicopter services were also being announced for early departure -

Helicopter flying out of Kedarnath valley -


However, there are many fake sadhus who have made Kedarnath their home and fleece the pilgrims on some pretext or the other.
Sadhu - fake or original?

We concluded this leg of the journey by returning to Gaurikund late in the evening. Thereafter, on the next day we started for our journey backvia Rudraprayag, Deo prayag, Srinagar, Rishikesh to Haridwar. We stayed at Haridwar for the night and proceeded for Delhi earlynext morning.

Check out the video of Kedarnath  -

(I had visited Badrinath temple way back in 2001 and would narrate the journey in next part to conclude the Chardham yatra travelogue.)