Towards Kedarnath - Chardham Yatra

Towards Kedarnath

The night spent at Uttarkashi was horrendous. Even though the hotel room at Ujeli just before Uttarkashi was well furnished but the heat was unbearable and the room fan could do little to help the cause. It was 8th of June, 2007 and when we returned back to Delhi later we came to know that probably thatwas the hottest in Delhi too during the present summers'. The effect was felt in far away Uttarkashi too, despite the fact the the hotel room was overlooking the Bhagirathi river. Despite all this, we being exhausted managed some sleep during the night. Early in the morning we started for Kedarnath and choose the Lambgaon route which is shorter. Having started early in the morning and the tract being scantily used, the route was not only picturesque but we also encountered jungle pheasant foraging for food & water just next to the road. Further, as we continued our descent through the hills having passed Lambgaon, before reaching Ghansali we crossed the newly constructed bridge across Tehri dam reservoir -

Bridge across Tehri Dam -

The road we took is scantily used as the bridge design only permits light vehicles to pass through. After reaching Ghansali, which is a very congested bazar and important transit point of the area and having overcome a short traffic jam due to visit by local MLA, we again proceeded onwards for journey to Gaurikund. After negotiating some really tortorously bending roads we proceeded upto Tilwara, whereafter the road became somewhat even and straighted out. Having stopped at Tilwara for some light refreshments, we again commenced with our journey forGaurikund enroute to Kedarnath. The next stop-over for us was at a very short distance from Tilwara, at a place called Agasth Muni. From this point the helicopter services are available for Kedarnath and round trip costs around Rs.8,000/- per head -

Helicopter at Agasth Muni

Having gone past Agasth muni, the road after a stretch of around 15 Kms. again started its upward climb although the curves were not that steep in this stretch. After passing through Kund, just ahead of Son Prayag we got stuck up in a massive traffice jam. We were informed that this was normal as the downwards bound traffic from Gaurikund is passed in batches and only after space becomes available at Gaurikund for parking of vehicles that the vehicles are allowed to proceed towards Gaurikund in batches. The road also bifurcates for Trijuginaryan from Son Prayag which is at the confluence of Mandakini (also called Kedar Ganga by some) and Vasukhi Ganga

View of Son Prayag - Mandakini flowing over the rocky outcrop forthingand Vasukhi Ganga flowing steadily below -

Although the distance between Son Prayag to Gaurikund is hardly 3 Kms. yet the distance was covered in one & half hours due to the intense rush of traffic. Vehicles are not allowed to stop at Gaurikund but allowed only to disembark passengers and then move down alomost half a kilometer for parking. Gaurikund is a really congest bazar at an altitude of almost 2000 meters. However, the GMVN hotel/rest house which is perched high on a hill side appears very distant to a fatigued traveller but on hindsight it is well placed away from the hustle & bustle of the bazar below and provides for prisitine fresh mountain air. We decided to rest there for the night for onward journey to Kedarnath the next morning.

At GMVN hotel in Gaurikund -

To watch video of Guarikund kindly click on this link - 

Towards Gangotri - Chardham yatra

Towards Gangotri

Having rested in the GMVN tourist bunglow at Barkot for the night and being fully refereshed both by the hospitality extended and excellent food provided by Sh. K.S. Rawat incharge of the tourist bunglow and coupled with the pleasant environ & climateof Barkot, we started for Bhaironghati enroute to Gangotri at around 9.00 A.M. The distance to be covered was approximately 180 Kms. The view of Barkot during morning was breathtaking -

Barkot morning view from GMVN tourist bunglow -

View of Bandarpoonch range from Barkot -

Having left Barkot behind, we reached Dharasu bend the moved towards Uttarkashi which is almost 26 Kms. from Dharasu bend. Having decided not to come back to Chinyalisaur we booked rooms in Uttarkashi. Beyond Uttarkashi we went past the Maneri dam -

Maneri dam accross Bhagirathi beyond Uttarkashi

which is another 26 Kms beyond Uttarkashi and thereafter we headed into really rough patch of road and the access was further impeded due to construction work of the Loharinag Pala Hydroelectric Project which was in progress enroute -

Loharinag Pala Hydroelectirc Project enroute to Gangotri -

After a tortorous two hours journey we reached the hot water springs of Gagnani which is reverened by Hindus and although a pretty small spot but many vehicles stop here for light refreshments as well as visit to the famed hot water springs -

View of Gagnani temple above the Hot water springs -

Beyond Gagnani, the road at some stretches is really bad and slows down the vehicles immesely both because of its bad texture as well as width with narrow gorge below -

See the deep gorge below and the way bus is negotiating the curve -

Having passed this horrendous stretch of road, we suddenly came upon properly metalled road with a stupendous view of river valley below just ahead of Harsil. The place had a mesmerising effect on all of us -

Nearing Harsil -

Having phtographed the river from the bridge, we started onward journey towards Harsil which is another famed location. Having passed Dharali, the staging point for treking to Sat-tal we reached the enchanting valley of Harsil and were totally elated with the view-

View of the Harsil Valley -

Another view of Harsil -

Picture post-card like Harsil -

GMVN has tourist camp in this valley and there are other smallerhotels also at Harsil. Having spent some time at Harsil we started towards Bhaironghati our halting place for the night. Just before one reaches Bhaironghati there is bridge below which flows the 'Jat Ganga', the river gorge below is picture perfect but photography in this particular spot is strictly prohibited. We reached Bhaironghat at around 4.30 P.M and famished as we were, the outsourced canteen of GMVN tourist bunglow refused to serve any food and we had to seek out and eat only 'Magi Noodles' available at road side stalls. Another interesting feature of the GMVN tourist bunglow at Bhaironghati is that it is not electrified and the generator runs from 7.30 P.M. to 11.00 P.M. and thereafter, every room is provided with a kerosene lantern for the night which was a first time & somewhat thrilling adventure for my two small ones -

Bhairon Mandir at Bhaironghati -

Evening view of the sky from Bhaironghati -

The journey to Gangotri commenced the next day and shall be narrated in the next part of the series.

Chardham Yatra - Yamunotri - Journey ahead of final destination

Chardham Yatra - Yamunotri

Panoramic view of Yamuntori temple

Day 1 of journey -

     The first stage of my Chardham yatra took me to Yamunotri and it took three days to complete this part of the Yatra. We started early in the morning from Delhi on 3rd June, 2007 in personal Vehicle and traversed the distance upto Rishikesh which is approximately 257 Kms. from Delhi. Enroute we stopped for b'fast at Cheetal Grand at Khatauli which has become a landmark in itself but the ambiance & food is worth appreciating and speaks out for itself.

Golden Pheasant in an enclosure at Cheetal Grand, Khatauli

       We reached Rishikesh late in the afternoon as we were caught in a very unpleasant traffic jam due to some procession, coupled with heavy yatra traffic and railway crossings. The journey from Haridwar to Rishikesh which is usually completed in half an hour took us two & half hours to complete. Exhausted and famished we checked into the Gharwal Mandal Vikas Nigam (GMVN for short) managed hotel, booking for which had been done by me almost three months in advance. Room rents in GMVN managed hotels/rest house/tourist bunglows range from Rs.150/- per day for dormitory upto Rs.800/- depending upon the type of accommodation booked, the details are available at - https://gmvnonline.com/. Having rested and refreshed ourselves, we moved to the Laxman Jhula to enjoy the evening aarti at the banks of river Ganga.

Ganga Aarti at Triveni Ghat, Rishikesh

Having watched the Aarti and made some local purchases we moved back to the Hotel to have our dinner early as the next day involved one of the longest driving streches (One can read my travelouge in respect of Rishikesh & Haridwar posted in this very site). I have uploaded pictures & videos related to the visit have been posted by me at the sitecommunity.webshots.com/user/srb810. To watch the video one can also click on the link - 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=48Av2e2wt2s.

Day 2 of the Journey -

Early next morning i.e. on 4th June, 2007 we started at 5.30 A.M. from Rishikesh for our next destination Hanumanchatti which is at a distance of 209 Kms. from Rishikesh. There are very rough stretches of roads enroute as one nears Hanumanchatti and therefore the average speed finally comes to around 25 Kms. per hour only. Persons with Vertigo & hill sickness are best advised to take up this stretch at two steps, with first step culminating at either Chinyalisaur or Dharasu. The road makes a steep climb from Rishikesh and as you move away and get at a higher elevation, Rishikesh appears distant and mythical.

Rishikesh view from road above

Rishikesh view from road above

      Gradually as we move upwards meadering through the hills, the first township that one passes is Narendranagar, which is a quaint old place that has become very over crowded over the years. Having passed Narendranagar, we had started feeling pangs of hunger and breakfast was due. We stopped at a small motel at Kantal just short of Chamba.

Kantal near Chamba - View of back side of the restaurant

Having had our breakfast we proceeded ahead and after having passed many small hamlets and a heritage hotel on the way, we reached Chamba.

Chamba township as seen from a distance

The township is now bristling with building activity all around and has become a very very congested area. Having crossed Chamba as we made our progress downhill we found a lot of children selling fresh ripe apricots and the orchards bearing peaches as well as walnuts were visible all around.

Apricots, fresh ripe apricots all around

Having gorged ourselves with delightful apricots & plums we continued our journey and the next pictorially visible sight was that of the Tehri dam reservoir.

View of Tehri dam reservoir - having blocked mighty Bhagirathi

Going past delightful green fields with breathtaking step-cultivation we reached Chinyalisaur just before Dharasu bend. Chinyalisaur is right below in the Valley and altitude is about only 700 meters odd. It is a very small township or best a big hamlet but boasts of a filling station which is a rare commodity in the hills.

River flowing by at Chilyanisaur

Having got past Chinyalisaur we reached Dharasu bend which is the cross road for travelling towards Barkot or Uttarkashi. In case one wants to travel towards Yamunotri he will have to take the road leaving for Barkot or else road towards Uttarkashi to proceed towards Gangotri. This is a very small hamlet with a few shops doing bristling business placed strategically on the road side. Having refreshed ourselves with cold drinks and ladies with paan, we proceeded towards the Barkot road to reach our destination.

Passing by Barkot

Just after crossing Barkot the road becomes rough and unstable in many areas with miles long streches of unprepared roads with roads signs warning of impending land/stone slides. The journey had become tortorous by now as the kids & ladies had got hill sick both because of the long journey and with this kind of road at the fag end of the day and every passing minute was becoming unbearable. Finally we reached Syanachatti almost in the vicinity of our destination.

View of river Yamuna at Syanachati

At Syanachatti some entries were made by the Police officials and thereafter we started for the final run for the day and reached Hanumanchatti at around 5.00 P.M a tortorous 11 hours run. We were famished and having checked into the GMVN run rest house we immediately launched into the food orderd.

Yamuna at Hanumanchatti as viewed from GMVN rest house at Hanumanchatti

After taking early dinner and retired for the day under cover of the quilt for a quiet nights sleep as next day was to be another adventure in waiting.