Chardham Yamunotri - the final trek

Chardham Yamunotri

A cascading stream in Yamuntori

     Having rested during the night at Hanumanchatti, we started early next morning for Jankichatti, which is the last motorhead before one starts trek for Yamunotri. Although the distance between Hanumanchatti to Jankichatti is hardly 8-10 Kms., but the road is atrocious and only the local jeeps are comfortable negotiating them. This journey otherwise is enchanting as one passes through picturesque valleys with lofty mountains in the distance. The first interesting place that one passes through after Hanumanchatti is the Banaras village -

Banaras village accross the Yamuna river gorge 

Having got past the Banaras village the valley opened up and the first view of the Bandarponch range which the source of the river Yamuna appeared in all its glory bathed in the fresh morning sun -

 

Close-up view of Bandarpoonch range

After quarter of an hours torturous climb in the scantily furnished local jeep, with most of the bones & joints aching, due to constant tossing around, we finally reached Janakichatti and commenced with our onward journey to Yamunotri. One can either hire a pony (although the trek upwards is reasonable but during return it is very torturous and at one point one has to trudge 2 Kms. distance by foot as journey during this stretch cannot be performed on pony) and the hire charges are - (i) official Rs.430/- for a round trip but they charge higher and requires some haggling and in addition one has to pay a toll fee @ Rs.50/- per pony. The other mode of journey for elderly is the doli or palki which is hauled by four porters and this costs around Rs.1200/- per round trip and again requires haggling for price as they tend to overcharge, toll tax is also payable @ Rs. 100/- per doli/palki. In addition to this there is another mode which is called the kandi/tokri wherein a porter carries very old and children (below 40 Kgs. weight) and they charge as same as pony with similar toll charges -

Starting journey from Jankichatti

On Kandi/pitthu on way to Yamunotri

Route of Yamunotri 

The torturous climb to Yamunotri

First view of Yamunotri temple

Having reached Yamunotri after almost two & half yours journey we headed straight for the temple which is another 750 meters by foot from the place where the ponies/dandis/kandis etc. drop you. The video for the first view can be watched at - 

The main prasada that is offered in the temple is rice cooked in the holy hot springs, especially Surya Kund whose water is at an astounding 190 degree Celsius -

The Yamunotri Temple

Rice being cooked in hot water springs/Surya kundin Yamunotri Temple

Source of river Yamuna

Having performed puja we loitered around for some time to imbibe the fresh air and magnificent views all around and having had a small tiffin we started on our way back. The video of Yamuna at Yamunotri can be viewed at - 

Bandarpoonch range source of river Yamuna as viewed from Yamunotri -

Small glaciers near Yamunotri -

Having trudged down to Jankichatti we came across Kharsali village where the priests of Yamunotri and their families reside during the severe winter months.

View of Kharsali village -

Finally having returned to Hanumanchatti and after a hot cup of coffee with pakoras we departed for Barkot for night stay and to embark upon our next stage of journey to Gangotri. We reached Barkot at around 5.30 P.M having started from Hanumanchatti at 4.00 P.M having traversed as distance of 32 Kms.

Brahmani river at Barkot -

Barkot night view - twinkling stars or what?

Chardham Yatra - Yamunotri - Journey ahead of final destination

Chardham Yatra - Yamunotri

Panoramic view of Yamuntori temple

Day 1 of journey -

     The first stage of my Chardham yatra took me to Yamunotri and it took three days to complete this part of the Yatra. We started early in the morning from Delhi on 3rd June, 2007 in personal Vehicle and traversed the distance upto Rishikesh which is approximately 257 Kms. from Delhi. Enroute we stopped for b'fast at Cheetal Grand at Khatauli which has become a landmark in itself but the ambiance & food is worth appreciating and speaks out for itself.

Golden Pheasant in an enclosure at Cheetal Grand, Khatauli

       We reached Rishikesh late in the afternoon as we were caught in a very unpleasant traffic jam due to some procession, coupled with heavy yatra traffic and railway crossings. The journey from Haridwar to Rishikesh which is usually completed in half an hour took us two & half hours to complete. Exhausted and famished we checked into the Gharwal Mandal Vikas Nigam (GMVN for short) managed hotel, booking for which had been done by me almost three months in advance. Room rents in GMVN managed hotels/rest house/tourist bunglows range from Rs.150/- per day for dormitory upto Rs.800/- depending upon the type of accommodation booked, the details are available at - https://gmvnonline.com/. Having rested and refreshed ourselves, we moved to the Laxman Jhula to enjoy the evening aarti at the banks of river Ganga.

Ganga Aarti at Triveni Ghat, Rishikesh

Having watched the Aarti and made some local purchases we moved back to the Hotel to have our dinner early as the next day involved one of the longest driving streches (One can read my travelouge in respect of Rishikesh & Haridwar posted in this very site). I have uploaded pictures & videos related to the visit have been posted by me at the sitecommunity.webshots.com/user/srb810. To watch the video one can also click on the link - 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=48Av2e2wt2s.

Day 2 of the Journey -

Early next morning i.e. on 4th June, 2007 we started at 5.30 A.M. from Rishikesh for our next destination Hanumanchatti which is at a distance of 209 Kms. from Rishikesh. There are very rough stretches of roads enroute as one nears Hanumanchatti and therefore the average speed finally comes to around 25 Kms. per hour only. Persons with Vertigo & hill sickness are best advised to take up this stretch at two steps, with first step culminating at either Chinyalisaur or Dharasu. The road makes a steep climb from Rishikesh and as you move away and get at a higher elevation, Rishikesh appears distant and mythical.

Rishikesh view from road above

Rishikesh view from road above

      Gradually as we move upwards meadering through the hills, the first township that one passes is Narendranagar, which is a quaint old place that has become very over crowded over the years. Having passed Narendranagar, we had started feeling pangs of hunger and breakfast was due. We stopped at a small motel at Kantal just short of Chamba.

Kantal near Chamba - View of back side of the restaurant

Having had our breakfast we proceeded ahead and after having passed many small hamlets and a heritage hotel on the way, we reached Chamba.

Chamba township as seen from a distance

The township is now bristling with building activity all around and has become a very very congested area. Having crossed Chamba as we made our progress downhill we found a lot of children selling fresh ripe apricots and the orchards bearing peaches as well as walnuts were visible all around.

Apricots, fresh ripe apricots all around

Having gorged ourselves with delightful apricots & plums we continued our journey and the next pictorially visible sight was that of the Tehri dam reservoir.

View of Tehri dam reservoir - having blocked mighty Bhagirathi

Going past delightful green fields with breathtaking step-cultivation we reached Chinyalisaur just before Dharasu bend. Chinyalisaur is right below in the Valley and altitude is about only 700 meters odd. It is a very small township or best a big hamlet but boasts of a filling station which is a rare commodity in the hills.

River flowing by at Chilyanisaur

Having got past Chinyalisaur we reached Dharasu bend which is the cross road for travelling towards Barkot or Uttarkashi. In case one wants to travel towards Yamunotri he will have to take the road leaving for Barkot or else road towards Uttarkashi to proceed towards Gangotri. This is a very small hamlet with a few shops doing bristling business placed strategically on the road side. Having refreshed ourselves with cold drinks and ladies with paan, we proceeded towards the Barkot road to reach our destination.

Passing by Barkot

Just after crossing Barkot the road becomes rough and unstable in many areas with miles long streches of unprepared roads with roads signs warning of impending land/stone slides. The journey had become tortorous by now as the kids & ladies had got hill sick both because of the long journey and with this kind of road at the fag end of the day and every passing minute was becoming unbearable. Finally we reached Syanachatti almost in the vicinity of our destination.

View of river Yamuna at Syanachati

At Syanachatti some entries were made by the Police officials and thereafter we started for the final run for the day and reached Hanumanchatti at around 5.00 P.M a tortorous 11 hours run. We were famished and having checked into the GMVN run rest house we immediately launched into the food orderd.

Yamuna at Hanumanchatti as viewed from GMVN rest house at Hanumanchatti

After taking early dinner and retired for the day under cover of the quilt for a quiet nights sleep as next day was to be another adventure in waiting.