Towards Gangotri - Chardham yatra

Towards Gangotri

Having rested in the GMVN tourist bunglow at Barkot for the night and being fully refereshed both by the hospitality extended and excellent food provided by Sh. K.S. Rawat incharge of the tourist bunglow and coupled with the pleasant environ & climateof Barkot, we started for Bhaironghati enroute to Gangotri at around 9.00 A.M. The distance to be covered was approximately 180 Kms. The view of Barkot during morning was breathtaking -

Barkot morning view from GMVN tourist bunglow -

View of Bandarpoonch range from Barkot -

Having left Barkot behind, we reached Dharasu bend the moved towards Uttarkashi which is almost 26 Kms. from Dharasu bend. Having decided not to come back to Chinyalisaur we booked rooms in Uttarkashi. Beyond Uttarkashi we went past the Maneri dam -

Maneri dam accross Bhagirathi beyond Uttarkashi

which is another 26 Kms beyond Uttarkashi and thereafter we headed into really rough patch of road and the access was further impeded due to construction work of the Loharinag Pala Hydroelectric Project which was in progress enroute -

Loharinag Pala Hydroelectirc Project enroute to Gangotri -

After a tortorous two hours journey we reached the hot water springs of Gagnani which is reverened by Hindus and although a pretty small spot but many vehicles stop here for light refreshments as well as visit to the famed hot water springs -

View of Gagnani temple above the Hot water springs -

Beyond Gagnani, the road at some stretches is really bad and slows down the vehicles immesely both because of its bad texture as well as width with narrow gorge below -

See the deep gorge below and the way bus is negotiating the curve -

Having passed this horrendous stretch of road, we suddenly came upon properly metalled road with a stupendous view of river valley below just ahead of Harsil. The place had a mesmerising effect on all of us -

Nearing Harsil -

Having phtographed the river from the bridge, we started onward journey towards Harsil which is another famed location. Having passed Dharali, the staging point for treking to Sat-tal we reached the enchanting valley of Harsil and were totally elated with the view-

View of the Harsil Valley -

Another view of Harsil -

Picture post-card like Harsil -

GMVN has tourist camp in this valley and there are other smallerhotels also at Harsil. Having spent some time at Harsil we started towards Bhaironghati our halting place for the night. Just before one reaches Bhaironghati there is bridge below which flows the 'Jat Ganga', the river gorge below is picture perfect but photography in this particular spot is strictly prohibited. We reached Bhaironghat at around 4.30 P.M and famished as we were, the outsourced canteen of GMVN tourist bunglow refused to serve any food and we had to seek out and eat only 'Magi Noodles' available at road side stalls. Another interesting feature of the GMVN tourist bunglow at Bhaironghati is that it is not electrified and the generator runs from 7.30 P.M. to 11.00 P.M. and thereafter, every room is provided with a kerosene lantern for the night which was a first time & somewhat thrilling adventure for my two small ones -

Bhairon Mandir at Bhaironghati -

Evening view of the sky from Bhaironghati -

The journey to Gangotri commenced the next day and shall be narrated in the next part of the series.

Chardham Yamunotri - the final trek

Chardham Yamunotri

A cascading stream in Yamuntori

     Having rested during the night at Hanumanchatti, we started early next morning for Jankichatti, which is the last motorhead before one starts trek for Yamunotri. Although the distance between Hanumanchatti to Jankichatti is hardly 8-10 Kms., but the road is atrocious and only the local jeeps are comfortable negotiating them. This journey otherwise is enchanting as one passes through picturesque valleys with lofty mountains in the distance. The first interesting place that one passes through after Hanumanchatti is the Banaras village -

Banaras village accross the Yamuna river gorge 

Having got past the Banaras village the valley opened up and the first view of the Bandarponch range which the source of the river Yamuna appeared in all its glory bathed in the fresh morning sun -

 

Close-up view of Bandarpoonch range

After quarter of an hours torturous climb in the scantily furnished local jeep, with most of the bones & joints aching, due to constant tossing around, we finally reached Janakichatti and commenced with our onward journey to Yamunotri. One can either hire a pony (although the trek upwards is reasonable but during return it is very torturous and at one point one has to trudge 2 Kms. distance by foot as journey during this stretch cannot be performed on pony) and the hire charges are - (i) official Rs.430/- for a round trip but they charge higher and requires some haggling and in addition one has to pay a toll fee @ Rs.50/- per pony. The other mode of journey for elderly is the doli or palki which is hauled by four porters and this costs around Rs.1200/- per round trip and again requires haggling for price as they tend to overcharge, toll tax is also payable @ Rs. 100/- per doli/palki. In addition to this there is another mode which is called the kandi/tokri wherein a porter carries very old and children (below 40 Kgs. weight) and they charge as same as pony with similar toll charges -

Starting journey from Jankichatti

On Kandi/pitthu on way to Yamunotri

Route of Yamunotri 

The torturous climb to Yamunotri

First view of Yamunotri temple

Having reached Yamunotri after almost two & half yours journey we headed straight for the temple which is another 750 meters by foot from the place where the ponies/dandis/kandis etc. drop you. The video for the first view can be watched at - 

The main prasada that is offered in the temple is rice cooked in the holy hot springs, especially Surya Kund whose water is at an astounding 190 degree Celsius -

The Yamunotri Temple

Rice being cooked in hot water springs/Surya kundin Yamunotri Temple

Source of river Yamuna

Having performed puja we loitered around for some time to imbibe the fresh air and magnificent views all around and having had a small tiffin we started on our way back. The video of Yamuna at Yamunotri can be viewed at - 

Bandarpoonch range source of river Yamuna as viewed from Yamunotri -

Small glaciers near Yamunotri -

Having trudged down to Jankichatti we came across Kharsali village where the priests of Yamunotri and their families reside during the severe winter months.

View of Kharsali village -

Finally having returned to Hanumanchatti and after a hot cup of coffee with pakoras we departed for Barkot for night stay and to embark upon our next stage of journey to Gangotri. We reached Barkot at around 5.30 P.M having started from Hanumanchatti at 4.00 P.M having traversed as distance of 32 Kms.

Brahmani river at Barkot -

Barkot night view - twinkling stars or what?