Okhla Bird Sanctuary

Okhla Bird Sanctuary

 

A group of Flamingos huddle together 

Buoyed by my visit to the Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary during the last week of February (as detailed in my previous blog), my legs were itching to visit the other main winter birding site near Delhi i.e. Okhla Bird Sanctuary.  As I was still tied up with my office work, I got the opportunity to visit this pristine destination in the second week of March and I was quite apprehensive about seeing any of the migratory birds, as the weather had turned a wee bit warmer.  However, armed with my camera I decided to visit the destination with my driver and a friend. 

 

Grooming session in progress

The Okhla Bird Sanctuary is situated in Gautam Budh Nagar in the middle of the Okhla Vihar and Barrage upon the river Yamuna in New Delhi. In order to conserve the numerous resident and migratory birds that are found here and also keeping in view the tourist inflow, this area was declared as Okhla Bird Sanctuary in 1990. Towards the south of this sanctuary we find Kalandi Kunj which is another picnic spot.  We made our way from Dwarka towards NOIDA by the DND flyover and before entering NOIDA, we took the turn heading towards Mayur Vihar Phase-III.  As soon as you get down from the flyover, where the road meets the main road coming from NOIDA towards Mayur Vihar/Akshardham temple, one has to take a left turn heading upwards and again turn further left till you reach the main gate of the Sanctuary, which is about 1.5 Kms. from the main road.  We took the wrong turn towards the right and ended up at a road end, where I found a pair of monkeys grooming each other and then asked the guard about the directions and headed towards the Sanctuary.

 

A Black Kite 

A Purple sunbird 

Red Vented Bulbul

Black Kite in flight

The sanctuary came about into existence with the construction of the Okhla Barrage way back in the late 1950s and 1960s and is right on the Yamuna River between Delhi and Uttar Pradesh at the south-eastern end of Delhi on one side and the western boundary of NOIDA. With Yamuna River being on the route of Migratory Birds and providing large space with suitable habitat on its both banks and suitable food in plenty, the birds had been using this area as a staging post for their migration both ways during the winter.  Over Three hundred species of birds (out of about 450 species recorded for Delhi and around Delhi) can be spotted here. The spot is good for birding throughout the year, though best season is during September-March for Winter Migratory Birds.  Amongst these, around more than 50% are migratory birds coming from Tibet, Europe and Siberia that come here for their winter migration. With the onset of the winter season in November, the arrival of migratory birds starts and with the onset of the summers around March, those visitors start flying back to their own land.   The migratory birds visiting the sanctuary during the winters are - the Northern Shoveller (Anas Clypeata) and Gadwall (Anas strepera). The Northern Pintail (Anas acuta) and Ruddy Shelduck (Tadors ferruginea), the rare migratory birds like the Garganey (Anas querquedula), Common Shelduck (Tadora tadorna), Comb Duck (Sarkiodiornis melantos) are also seen occasionally. Other common species include the Common Teal (Anas crecca), Tufted Duck (Aythya fuligula), Common Pochard (Aythya ferina), Greylag Goose (Anser anser) and the Bar-headed Goose (Anser indicus). The resident Spot billed Duck (Anas poecilorhyncha) is abundant. There are several other bird species like Mynas, Drongos, Babblers, Francolins, Peafowl, Bee eaters etc. are also seen commonly along the bund.

 

Spot billed duck

Common Moorhen

Cormorant

Cormorant sunbathing

A Lapwing nest

Northern Pintails

Northern Pintails

Brown headed Gull

The entry to this place opens at 7 am and one can drive their own car right till the last point on the mud trail near the watch towers. Apart from some morning walkers, only serious bird-watchers frequent this place.

Entry & camera charges:
For Car/Jeep - Rs.100/-
For still camera - Rs.30/-
I am enclosing a sample of the scanned copy of the booklet issued at the entry gate, listing the details of the birds and fee etc.

The outer cover

Inside cover

The second page

Inside back cover

 © S Roy Biswas (all rights reserved)

Kumaon – Journey from Delhi to Mukteshwar

Kumaon – Journey from Delhi to Mukteshwar

The famous Nanital Lake

I had prepared my itinerary well in advance as the journey of over 1500 Kms. culminated over a period of 14 days. I had booked rooms at the ‘Tourist Rest Houses’ run by the Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam and was truly satisfied with the choice I had made, as this Semi-government organization has its rest houses located in most desolate and nondescript places and provides you with the best of services available in such places.

Entering Uttar Pradesh

We started the journey in my own car with the assistance of an hired hand, who undertook the journey more for adventure & passion rather than monetary or other benefits. I prefer personally driven cars as the drivers then tend to listen to your directions, rather than impose themselves as in case of most drivers from the hill region and also from hiring agencies in New Delhi. I had a bad experience way back in 2007 when I undertook the journey for the Chardham circuit in a hired vehicle. We started on the 5^th of June, 2010 early in the morning at 5.00 A.M with the intent to avoid heavy & slow moving traffic on the Ghaziabad-Moradabad sector.

The Toll Plazas

Having got past the border at Ghaziabad, I was pleasantly surprised at the quality of road & lanes laid down by the NHAI on the NH-24 and made the journey very comforting, albeit dotted with numerous ‘toll plazas’ whose toll rates ranged from Rs.5/- (one side) to Rs.40/- maximum. However, as the development work is underway and over head passes being constructed at many small & medium sized villages & townships enroute, the journey was speckled with small hiccups while passing by these places. Having reached Gajraula at around 8.00 A.M having driven approximately 160 Kms. from Dwarka, New Delhi we stopped over for a brief breakfast at a road side Dhaba called the ‘Giani Dhaba’, the food served was fresh and refreshing.

 

Approaching the Kumaon hills

Stopping by the Kaladhungi forest

Leaving Gajraula, we headed towards Moradabad and after negotiating the run through some well carpeted roads, we turned towards Bazpur and having passed through Tanda, we headed into the Kaladhungi forests. Here we stopped by for some time, absorbing the nature & appreciating the forest that lay sprawled all around. Then we passed by Choti Haldwani region and gradually the climb started towards the hills of Nanital, which were gradually nearing. We had to enter Nanital as we had to refill our petrol tank and to my dismay found the place overflowing with people & vehicles. As the petrol was unavailable at the Petrol pump situated at the entry point we had to make way to the Petrol pump situated below near the Lake side next to the Bus stand. Having upped the tank we proceeded towards Bhowali and due to lack of proper signage, first headed towards Bhimtal and then had to get back to the road which went towards Mukteshwar.

Village women carrying firewood

After having gone past some nondescript villages like Kainchi & Gagar, we reached another village which was fairly big. By this time it was late in the afternoon and hunger pangs had started getting to us. Because of motion sickness suffered by some of the vehicles incumbents, it was decided that some snacks & cold drinks would be appropriate for the time being. We parked our Car by the road side and found that some local music was blaring loudly and as we located its source, we found that a marriage party was underway in a village across the valley and the ambient atmosphere of the place was carrying the sound across the valley with clarity along with the breeze. Having gorged enough Pakoras, which were lip smacking, made in true ‘Pahari style’ containing some green leaves & potatoes, topped with some cold drinks we were ready for the final stretch. We passed by a few more nondescript villages namely Khabrar, Kashiyalekh and finally having got past Bhatelia, we headed towards Mukteshwar, our first destination in Kumoan where we were to stay put for next two nights.

The views of Himalayas from Mukteshwar

Enjoy a short video of the journey –

© S Roy Biswas., all rights reserved.

Monuments of Agra - Epitome of Mughal Architecture - Agra Fort

Agra Fort

A view of fort gates from inside

Agra Fort is located on the right bank of the river Yamuna in the city of Agra in Uttar Pradesh. It has also been declared as UNESCO World Heritage site. It is one of the most historically important strong-hold of the Mughals, containing a intircately decorated buildings encompassing the imposing Mughal style of art and architecture. It was constructed by the third Mughal emperor Akbar on the remains of an ancient site known as Badalgarh. Sikandar Lodi (1487-1517) was the first Sultan of Delhi to shift his capital from Delhi to Agra. After Sikandar Lodi who died in 1517, his son Ibrahim Lodi held the fort for 9 years until he was defeated and killed in the battle of Panipat in 1526. Humayun not only captured the fort but also seized a vast treasure, which included the world famous ‘Koh-i-noor’ diamond as well. Humayun was coronated here in 1530. After Humayun’s defeat at Bilgram in 1540 by the hands of Sher Shah of the Suri dynasty occupied Agra fort and garrisoned it.

Another view of the Moti masjid

Akbar arrived in Agra in 1558. He ordered the renovation of the fort with red sandstone and it was completed over a period of 8 years (1565-1573). The fort has been built on a semi-circular plinth plan, which is surrounded by a 21.4 m high fortification wall on all sides. Double ramparts have been provided here with broad massive circular bastions at regular intervals. There are four gates on its four sides, one of the gates was called “khizri-gate” (the water gate) which once opened to the Yamuna river front, where ghats (quays) were provided, but as on date the rive has gradually shrunk away from the fort. The fort spreads over an area of about 94 acres of land. Abul Fazl, a court historian of Akbar, had recorded in his memoirs that 5000 buildings had been built in Bengali and Gujarati style. Most of these buildings have now disappeared. Shah Jahan himself demolished some of these in order to make room for his white marble palaces. Later, the British destroyed most of the buildings for raising barracks. Hardly 30 Mughal buildings have survived on the southeastern side. Of these, the Delhi-Gate, Akbari-Gate and ‘Bengali-Mahal’, are representative of buildings raised during the reign of Akbar.

A view of fortification

After the reign Akbar, his successor Jahangir mostly resided at Lahore and in Kashmir, though he visited Agra regularly and lived in the fort. The next in line of accession to the Mughal throne, Shah Jahan was a great builder and he raised white marble palaces here. He also built three white marble mosques in it: Moti-Masjid, Nagina-Masjid and Mina-Masjid. Built during the reign of Shah Jahan, the Diwan-i-Aam (Hall of Public Audience) was used for durbars, formal receptions in which the emperor would conduct state business while ceremoniously enthroned. Though Shah Jahan had formally transferred his capital to Delhi, in 1638, he continued to live here. But after his death, Agra lost its grandeur. Aurangzeb remained busy in the regional conflicts and wars. Yet, time and again, he lived here and held the durbar. Shivaji came to Agra in 1666 and met Aurangzeb in the Diwan-i-Khas. As fate would have it, Aurangzeb imprisoned Shah Jahan, his own father, in the fort for 8 years until he died in 1666 and was buried in the Taj Mahal. The barcades around the two gates and on the riverside were built by Aurangzeb to strengthen its defenses. Aurangzeb died in 1707 and 18th century history of Agra Fort is a saga of sieges and plunder during which it was held by the Jats, the Marathas and finally the British captured it from the latter in 1803.

Intricate water works in the fort

A fusion of Gujrati & Bengali architecture

Ornate pillars

Agra Fort is entered today at the south end, through a low outer wall and gate built by Aurangzeb. Visitors then pass in succession through two of Akbar's gates, the Amar Singh and the Akbari, before finally gaining admittance to the fort proper. The original entrance to the fort was through the grander Delhi Gate in the west wall. The details of gates & buildings of Agra fort are detailed as follows –

Amar Singh Gate - The gate was originally tiled. Although the colorful tile has been lost, the inlay patterns remain in the stone into which they were set. For defensive reasons, this gate is placed perpendicular to the walls.

Main Amar Singh Gate

Akbari Gate - is the third and final gate which guards the south entrance to the fort. The gate pierces the fort's massive inner wall between these two protective towers, which still retain some traces of their original tiling.

Akbari Darwaza or Gate

Jahangiri Mahal - This palace takes its name from Jahangir, but was built by Akbar sometime between 1560 and 1580. Lacking ground-story windows, it might have been used by the royal ladies. The large bowl in front was carved in 1611 from a single block of porphyry; it is variously said to have been used as a cistern, or as Jahangir's bathtub.
Muthamman Burj - On the east side of the fort, this octagonal pavilion looks out across the Jumna River and countryside, and downstream to the Taj Mahal. It is said to be the tower where Shah Jahan was imprisoned.

Muthammun Burj where Shah Jahan was imprisoned

Another view of the Muthammun Burj

Jahanara's palace

Khaas Mahal

Intricate work - Khaas Mahal

Roof top paintings - Khaas Mahal

Intricate work in arches of Khaas Mahal

Khaas Mahal view

Khaas Mahal domes

Khaas mahal jharokas

View of Diwan-i-khas

View of Diwan-i-khas pillar

View of Diwan-i-khas - intricate work on pillars

View of Diwan-i-khas - Pillar base

View of onyx stone throne base in front of Diwan-i-khas

View of marble stone throne base in front of Diwan-i-khas

Courtyard - This is one of two courtyards flanking the Khass Mahal. Its curving Bengali style roof imitates the shape of Bengali marriage palanquin and symbolic of the unmarried status of Jahanara, sister of Shah Jahan. The palace overlooks the Jumna river to the east.
Khass Mahal - or Private Pavilion dates back to 1636. This was probably a multifunction room that could have been used for various kinds of gatherings, or even for sleeping. It has ornate and intricate work on its marble pillars and bases.
Diwan-i-Khass - or Hall of Private Audience was built in 1635 and was used to receive heads of state, ambassadors, and other diplomatic visitors to the Mugal court. The open area below the terrace level constitutes a garden, the Anguri Bagh (Grape Garden). Underneath the terrace is a barrack of rooms and chambers including hot-weather retreats and possibly a dungeon whose entry is now blocked.
Diwan-i-Aam - The Hall of Public Audiences, made of red sandstone, was constructed by Shahjahan. It is here the emperor met officials and commoners and listened to the petitioners. The women of the palace could watch the court without being seen by others from the pavilion through jali (lattice) screens. The open sided, cusped arched hall (64x23m) built of plaster on red stone, is very impressive. The throne alcove of richly decorated white marble completed after 7 years work in 1634 was used to house the famous Peacock Throne, later shifted to Delhi by Aurangazeb and was finally carried away to Iran.

Distant view of the Diwan-i-aam

Diwan-i-aam - seat of the famed Peacock throne

Diwan-i-aam - intricate pillar work (none of the pillars block view from throne)

Diwan-i-aam - Intricate workmanship on arch

Nagina Masjid - or the gem mosque is a private mosque raised by Shah Jahan with typical cusped arches for ladies of the court. There is Mina bazar for the royal ladies to buy things from the marble balcony beneath the Nagina Masjid.

Moti Masjid - near the Nagina Masjid is a perfectly proportioned pearl mosque built in white marble. This grand mosque has three domes in white marble raising their heads over the red sandstone wall.

The famed Moti Masjid

Mina Masjid – was a small mosque built inside the fort next to the Diwan-i-Khas and is said to have been used by Shah Jahan during the time he was imprisoned in the fort.

Jehangir's bath tub

Comparative sive - in front of Jehangir's bath-tub

The Jahangir or Rang Mahal

Intricate gold based paint work inside Jehangir's Mahal

Panaromic view of painted panel in Jehangir's palace