Around Agra - Fatehpur Sikri

Fatehpur sikri – an Emperor’s obeisance

 

Sikri is an very old settlement situated in the upper Vindhyachal ranges which is now almost eroded through the vagaries of nature over the eons. It was once situated on the banks of a large natural lake, which has now mostly dried up. It is a pre-historic site where some stone-age tools have been found alongwith Ochre painted Pottery which date back to 2^ndCentury B.C and its prolonged occupation by mankind is reflected in the Painted Grey Ware belonging to the 1200-800 B.C which have also been discovered from this region. Sikri finds mention in the Mahabharata as ‘Saik’. The present name is derived from combination of the city built by Akbar named as ‘Fathepur’ and added to this is the pre-historic village of Sikri, thus naming the place as ‘Fatehpur Sikri’.

Present day Fatehpur sikri is situated at a distance of 37 kms. from Agra is a city built predominantly in Red. This town was built by the Mughal Emperor, Akbar. He had planned this city as his capital but shortage of water compelled him to abandon the city. The fort is situated at 27° 05' N latitude and 77° 39' E longitude and has a mean altitude of 708 meters above sea level. Fatehpur Sikri has been declared as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

This place was first visited by the Mughal Emperor Babur during the battle of Khanwah when he fought with Rana Sangha during A.D. 1527 and mentioned it as ‘Sikri’ in his memoirs i.e Babur Nama. He is credited with laying the foundation of a garden and a Jal-Mahal surrounded by the lake-water, and a baoli (step-well) to commemorate his victory in the battle of Khanwah. However, thereafter the place came under Sher Shah Suri who had usurped the Mughal legacy for a brief period of time till Emperor regained his lost empire from him.

The present day Fatehpur Sikri was built by Emperor Akbar and legacy goes that he had no child. After receiving the blessings of Sufi Saint Salim Chisti, he was blessed with a male child who became the heir to his throne, he was named Salim (after the name of Sufi Saint Salim) who later become Emperor Jahangir. The tomb "Salim Chisti Ka Mazar" was built in honour of the Sufi saint in 1571 by him. Earlier it was built with red sand stone, but later converted into beautiful marble mauseleum. Akbar (1556-1605), for a period of 13 years, from 1572 to 1585, in his quest to honour the Sufi Saint Sheikh Salim Chishti, who resided here (in a cavern on the ridge), raised lofty buildings for his use, and houses for the public. Thus grew, a great city with charming palaces and institutions. Akbar gave it the name of Fathabad and which in later days came to be known as “Fathpur Sikri”.

At Fathepur Sikri one can find all Mughal institutions such as the ‘Ibadat-Khanah’, ‘Din-i-Ilahi’, ‘Tarikh-i-Ilahi’ , Jharokha-Darshan, the doctrine of Sulh-i-Kul and policy of liberal patronage to indigenous arts and literatures, were founded. It was also here that workshops of various handicrafts were established. Sikri was the first planned city of the Mughals. The sloping levels of the city were connected into terraces which were utilised for various complexes such as Jami masjid, Buland-Darwazah and tomb of Sheikh Salim Chishti; Khass Mahal, Shahi-Bazar, Mina-Bazar, the Panch-Mahal, Khwabgah, Diwan-i-Khass, Anup-Talao, Chaupar and Diwan-i-Am. The efficient system of drainage and water-supply adopted here suggest an extremely intelligent town-planning by the Mughal emperor. All these palaces were built of red sandstone in the beam-and-post order, and composed of pillars, ornamental arches, brackets-and-chhajjas, jharokhas, chhatris, chhaparkhats, chaukhandis and so on. The architecture of Fatehpur Sikri has inputs from all over the country especially artisans from Gujrat & Bengal were employed to do some exquisite work and influence of Hindu & Jain sculpture is also visible in many of the landmarks here. The layout of the city reflects that a conscious attempt had been made to produce rich spatial effects by the organizing the forms of buildings and using the open spaces around them.

Prime Attractions of Fatehpur Sikri

Buland Darwaza - meaning 'high' or 'great' gate in Persian. The Buland Darwaza is 53.63m high and 35 meters wide. Buland Darwaza is the highest gateway in the world and an astounding example of the Mughal architecture. It is built of red sandstone and inlaying of white marble. There is an inscription one on the monument which is a message from Lord Jesus advising his followers not to consider this world as their permanent home. The Buland Darwaza towers above the courtyard of the mosque. The Buland Darwaza is semi octagonal in plan and is topped by pillars and chhatris. Buland Darwaza echoes early Mughal design with simple ornamentation, carved verses from the Koran and towering arches. There are thirteen smaller domed kiosks on the roof, stylized battlement and small turrets and inlay work of white and black marble. On the outside a long flight of steps sweeps down the hill giving the gateway additional height. A Persian inscription on eastern archway of the Buland Darwaza records Akbar's conquest over Deccan in 1601 A.D.This gate can be approached from the outside by a 13-metre flight of steps which adds to its grandeur. The gate erected in 1602 AD to commemorate Akbar’s victory over Deccan and is the highest and grandest gateway in India and ranks among the biggest in the world.
 

Dargah Of Sheikh Salim Chisti - This Dargah was built in 1570. Here, childless women come for blessings of the saint. Even Akbar was blessed with three sons, when he came here. The lattice work in the Dargah is among the finest to be found any where in India.

The Jami Masjid - One of the largest mosques in India, Jami Masjid was built in 1571 AD. Inside, there is a vast congregational coutyard. To the right, at the corner, is the Jammat Khana Hall and next to this is the tomb of the royal ladies. To the left of the Jami Masjid is the Stone Cutters’ mosque, the oldest place of worship at Fateh Pur Sikri. It is entered through the eastern entrance known as the Buland Darwaza.

Palace of Jodha Bai - is the largest and the most important building in the royal palace, named after Akbar’s Rajput wife, Jodha Bai. This spacious palace was assured of privacy and security by high walls and a 9 metre guarded gate to the east. The architecture is a blend of styles with Hindu columns and Muslim cupolas and has a winter & summer palace placed diametrically opposite to each other, separated by a vast courtyard with a central vault for Tulsi plant. Just outside the main gate is the personal kitchen of Jodhabai where the jali work and lattice above it has sculptures replete with designs of Hindu women ear rings.

Sunehra Makann - is the palace of Akbar’s Christian wife, Mariam-Uz-Zamani. This two-storeyed building is richly adorned by gold murals in Persian style. The beams have inscriptions of verses by Akbar’s brother, Faizi.

Panch Mahal - To the right of Sunehra Makan is the elegant, airy 5 storeyed pavilion, the Panch Mahal. Each floor over here is smaller than the one below and it rises to a single domed kiosk on top supported by four columns providing a magnificent view of the city and its environs.

Diwan-I-Am - or the Hall Of Public Audience. This hall was also used for celebrations and public prayers. Beautiful jali screen on either sides separated the ladies attending the court.

Diwan-khana-I-khaas - or Hall Of Private Audience, in its centre stands a profusely carved column supporting a colossal-bracketed capital. Four narrow causeways radiate from the centre and run to each corner of the chamber. It is believed that Akbar’s throne occupied the circular space over the capital and the corners were assigned to the four ministers.

Turkish Sultana’s House - This palace is attributed to the third wife of Emperor Akbar and to make her feel comfortable, the geometrical pattern on the walls and ceiling are reminiscent of Central Asian carvings in wood.

The Treasury - or Ankh Michauli, once believed to have been used for playing the game, comprising three rooms each protected by a narrow corridor which were manned by guards.

Daulat khana-I-khas & Anoop Talao - Located in the corner to the left is the emperor’s private chamber. It has two main rooms on the ground floor. One housed Akbar’s library while the larger room was his resting area. On the first floor is the Khwabgah or the bed-chamber. It was connected with the Turkish Sultana’s house, the Panch Mahal, Mariam’s House and the Jodha Bai’s palace by corridors. In front is the water tank also called Anoop Talao where famed Tansen used to sing for the emperor.

Astrologer's seat - A palace which was intricately sculpted and next to the Diwan e Khas was the seat for the royal Astrologer who used to fortell the position of the stars and advise the emperor accordingly for carrying out his day to day duties.

Monuments of Agra - Epitome of Mughal Architecture - Agra Fort

Agra Fort

A view of fort gates from inside

Agra Fort is located on the right bank of the river Yamuna in the city of Agra in Uttar Pradesh. It has also been declared as UNESCO World Heritage site. It is one of the most historically important strong-hold of the Mughals, containing a intircately decorated buildings encompassing the imposing Mughal style of art and architecture. It was constructed by the third Mughal emperor Akbar on the remains of an ancient site known as Badalgarh. Sikandar Lodi (1487-1517) was the first Sultan of Delhi to shift his capital from Delhi to Agra. After Sikandar Lodi who died in 1517, his son Ibrahim Lodi held the fort for 9 years until he was defeated and killed in the battle of Panipat in 1526. Humayun not only captured the fort but also seized a vast treasure, which included the world famous ‘Koh-i-noor’ diamond as well. Humayun was coronated here in 1530. After Humayun’s defeat at Bilgram in 1540 by the hands of Sher Shah of the Suri dynasty occupied Agra fort and garrisoned it.

Another view of the Moti masjid

Akbar arrived in Agra in 1558. He ordered the renovation of the fort with red sandstone and it was completed over a period of 8 years (1565-1573). The fort has been built on a semi-circular plinth plan, which is surrounded by a 21.4 m high fortification wall on all sides. Double ramparts have been provided here with broad massive circular bastions at regular intervals. There are four gates on its four sides, one of the gates was called “khizri-gate” (the water gate) which once opened to the Yamuna river front, where ghats (quays) were provided, but as on date the rive has gradually shrunk away from the fort. The fort spreads over an area of about 94 acres of land. Abul Fazl, a court historian of Akbar, had recorded in his memoirs that 5000 buildings had been built in Bengali and Gujarati style. Most of these buildings have now disappeared. Shah Jahan himself demolished some of these in order to make room for his white marble palaces. Later, the British destroyed most of the buildings for raising barracks. Hardly 30 Mughal buildings have survived on the southeastern side. Of these, the Delhi-Gate, Akbari-Gate and ‘Bengali-Mahal’, are representative of buildings raised during the reign of Akbar.

A view of fortification

After the reign Akbar, his successor Jahangir mostly resided at Lahore and in Kashmir, though he visited Agra regularly and lived in the fort. The next in line of accession to the Mughal throne, Shah Jahan was a great builder and he raised white marble palaces here. He also built three white marble mosques in it: Moti-Masjid, Nagina-Masjid and Mina-Masjid. Built during the reign of Shah Jahan, the Diwan-i-Aam (Hall of Public Audience) was used for durbars, formal receptions in which the emperor would conduct state business while ceremoniously enthroned. Though Shah Jahan had formally transferred his capital to Delhi, in 1638, he continued to live here. But after his death, Agra lost its grandeur. Aurangzeb remained busy in the regional conflicts and wars. Yet, time and again, he lived here and held the durbar. Shivaji came to Agra in 1666 and met Aurangzeb in the Diwan-i-Khas. As fate would have it, Aurangzeb imprisoned Shah Jahan, his own father, in the fort for 8 years until he died in 1666 and was buried in the Taj Mahal. The barcades around the two gates and on the riverside were built by Aurangzeb to strengthen its defenses. Aurangzeb died in 1707 and 18th century history of Agra Fort is a saga of sieges and plunder during which it was held by the Jats, the Marathas and finally the British captured it from the latter in 1803.

Intricate water works in the fort

A fusion of Gujrati & Bengali architecture

Ornate pillars

Agra Fort is entered today at the south end, through a low outer wall and gate built by Aurangzeb. Visitors then pass in succession through two of Akbar's gates, the Amar Singh and the Akbari, before finally gaining admittance to the fort proper. The original entrance to the fort was through the grander Delhi Gate in the west wall. The details of gates & buildings of Agra fort are detailed as follows –

Amar Singh Gate - The gate was originally tiled. Although the colorful tile has been lost, the inlay patterns remain in the stone into which they were set. For defensive reasons, this gate is placed perpendicular to the walls.

Main Amar Singh Gate

Akbari Gate - is the third and final gate which guards the south entrance to the fort. The gate pierces the fort's massive inner wall between these two protective towers, which still retain some traces of their original tiling.

Akbari Darwaza or Gate

Jahangiri Mahal - This palace takes its name from Jahangir, but was built by Akbar sometime between 1560 and 1580. Lacking ground-story windows, it might have been used by the royal ladies. The large bowl in front was carved in 1611 from a single block of porphyry; it is variously said to have been used as a cistern, or as Jahangir's bathtub.
Muthamman Burj - On the east side of the fort, this octagonal pavilion looks out across the Jumna River and countryside, and downstream to the Taj Mahal. It is said to be the tower where Shah Jahan was imprisoned.

Muthammun Burj where Shah Jahan was imprisoned

Another view of the Muthammun Burj

Jahanara's palace

Khaas Mahal

Intricate work - Khaas Mahal

Roof top paintings - Khaas Mahal

Intricate work in arches of Khaas Mahal

Khaas Mahal view

Khaas Mahal domes

Khaas mahal jharokas

View of Diwan-i-khas

View of Diwan-i-khas pillar

View of Diwan-i-khas - intricate work on pillars

View of Diwan-i-khas - Pillar base

View of onyx stone throne base in front of Diwan-i-khas

View of marble stone throne base in front of Diwan-i-khas

Courtyard - This is one of two courtyards flanking the Khass Mahal. Its curving Bengali style roof imitates the shape of Bengali marriage palanquin and symbolic of the unmarried status of Jahanara, sister of Shah Jahan. The palace overlooks the Jumna river to the east.
Khass Mahal - or Private Pavilion dates back to 1636. This was probably a multifunction room that could have been used for various kinds of gatherings, or even for sleeping. It has ornate and intricate work on its marble pillars and bases.
Diwan-i-Khass - or Hall of Private Audience was built in 1635 and was used to receive heads of state, ambassadors, and other diplomatic visitors to the Mugal court. The open area below the terrace level constitutes a garden, the Anguri Bagh (Grape Garden). Underneath the terrace is a barrack of rooms and chambers including hot-weather retreats and possibly a dungeon whose entry is now blocked.
Diwan-i-Aam - The Hall of Public Audiences, made of red sandstone, was constructed by Shahjahan. It is here the emperor met officials and commoners and listened to the petitioners. The women of the palace could watch the court without being seen by others from the pavilion through jali (lattice) screens. The open sided, cusped arched hall (64x23m) built of plaster on red stone, is very impressive. The throne alcove of richly decorated white marble completed after 7 years work in 1634 was used to house the famous Peacock Throne, later shifted to Delhi by Aurangazeb and was finally carried away to Iran.

Distant view of the Diwan-i-aam

Diwan-i-aam - seat of the famed Peacock throne

Diwan-i-aam - intricate pillar work (none of the pillars block view from throne)

Diwan-i-aam - Intricate workmanship on arch

Nagina Masjid - or the gem mosque is a private mosque raised by Shah Jahan with typical cusped arches for ladies of the court. There is Mina bazar for the royal ladies to buy things from the marble balcony beneath the Nagina Masjid.

Moti Masjid - near the Nagina Masjid is a perfectly proportioned pearl mosque built in white marble. This grand mosque has three domes in white marble raising their heads over the red sandstone wall.

The famed Moti Masjid

Mina Masjid – was a small mosque built inside the fort next to the Diwan-i-Khas and is said to have been used by Shah Jahan during the time he was imprisoned in the fort.

Jehangir's bath tub

Comparative sive - in front of Jehangir's bath-tub

The Jahangir or Rang Mahal

Intricate gold based paint work inside Jehangir's Mahal

Panaromic view of painted panel in Jehangir's palace