Around Agra - Fatehpur Sikri

Fatehpur sikri – an Emperor’s obeisance

 

Sikri is an very old settlement situated in the upper Vindhyachal ranges which is now almost eroded through the vagaries of nature over the eons. It was once situated on the banks of a large natural lake, which has now mostly dried up. It is a pre-historic site where some stone-age tools have been found alongwith Ochre painted Pottery which date back to 2^ndCentury B.C and its prolonged occupation by mankind is reflected in the Painted Grey Ware belonging to the 1200-800 B.C which have also been discovered from this region. Sikri finds mention in the Mahabharata as ‘Saik’. The present name is derived from combination of the city built by Akbar named as ‘Fathepur’ and added to this is the pre-historic village of Sikri, thus naming the place as ‘Fatehpur Sikri’.

Present day Fatehpur sikri is situated at a distance of 37 kms. from Agra is a city built predominantly in Red. This town was built by the Mughal Emperor, Akbar. He had planned this city as his capital but shortage of water compelled him to abandon the city. The fort is situated at 27° 05' N latitude and 77° 39' E longitude and has a mean altitude of 708 meters above sea level. Fatehpur Sikri has been declared as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

This place was first visited by the Mughal Emperor Babur during the battle of Khanwah when he fought with Rana Sangha during A.D. 1527 and mentioned it as ‘Sikri’ in his memoirs i.e Babur Nama. He is credited with laying the foundation of a garden and a Jal-Mahal surrounded by the lake-water, and a baoli (step-well) to commemorate his victory in the battle of Khanwah. However, thereafter the place came under Sher Shah Suri who had usurped the Mughal legacy for a brief period of time till Emperor regained his lost empire from him.

The present day Fatehpur Sikri was built by Emperor Akbar and legacy goes that he had no child. After receiving the blessings of Sufi Saint Salim Chisti, he was blessed with a male child who became the heir to his throne, he was named Salim (after the name of Sufi Saint Salim) who later become Emperor Jahangir. The tomb "Salim Chisti Ka Mazar" was built in honour of the Sufi saint in 1571 by him. Earlier it was built with red sand stone, but later converted into beautiful marble mauseleum. Akbar (1556-1605), for a period of 13 years, from 1572 to 1585, in his quest to honour the Sufi Saint Sheikh Salim Chishti, who resided here (in a cavern on the ridge), raised lofty buildings for his use, and houses for the public. Thus grew, a great city with charming palaces and institutions. Akbar gave it the name of Fathabad and which in later days came to be known as “Fathpur Sikri”.

At Fathepur Sikri one can find all Mughal institutions such as the ‘Ibadat-Khanah’, ‘Din-i-Ilahi’, ‘Tarikh-i-Ilahi’ , Jharokha-Darshan, the doctrine of Sulh-i-Kul and policy of liberal patronage to indigenous arts and literatures, were founded. It was also here that workshops of various handicrafts were established. Sikri was the first planned city of the Mughals. The sloping levels of the city were connected into terraces which were utilised for various complexes such as Jami masjid, Buland-Darwazah and tomb of Sheikh Salim Chishti; Khass Mahal, Shahi-Bazar, Mina-Bazar, the Panch-Mahal, Khwabgah, Diwan-i-Khass, Anup-Talao, Chaupar and Diwan-i-Am. The efficient system of drainage and water-supply adopted here suggest an extremely intelligent town-planning by the Mughal emperor. All these palaces were built of red sandstone in the beam-and-post order, and composed of pillars, ornamental arches, brackets-and-chhajjas, jharokhas, chhatris, chhaparkhats, chaukhandis and so on. The architecture of Fatehpur Sikri has inputs from all over the country especially artisans from Gujrat & Bengal were employed to do some exquisite work and influence of Hindu & Jain sculpture is also visible in many of the landmarks here. The layout of the city reflects that a conscious attempt had been made to produce rich spatial effects by the organizing the forms of buildings and using the open spaces around them.

Prime Attractions of Fatehpur Sikri

Buland Darwaza - meaning 'high' or 'great' gate in Persian. The Buland Darwaza is 53.63m high and 35 meters wide. Buland Darwaza is the highest gateway in the world and an astounding example of the Mughal architecture. It is built of red sandstone and inlaying of white marble. There is an inscription one on the monument which is a message from Lord Jesus advising his followers not to consider this world as their permanent home. The Buland Darwaza towers above the courtyard of the mosque. The Buland Darwaza is semi octagonal in plan and is topped by pillars and chhatris. Buland Darwaza echoes early Mughal design with simple ornamentation, carved verses from the Koran and towering arches. There are thirteen smaller domed kiosks on the roof, stylized battlement and small turrets and inlay work of white and black marble. On the outside a long flight of steps sweeps down the hill giving the gateway additional height. A Persian inscription on eastern archway of the Buland Darwaza records Akbar's conquest over Deccan in 1601 A.D.This gate can be approached from the outside by a 13-metre flight of steps which adds to its grandeur. The gate erected in 1602 AD to commemorate Akbar’s victory over Deccan and is the highest and grandest gateway in India and ranks among the biggest in the world.
 

Dargah Of Sheikh Salim Chisti - This Dargah was built in 1570. Here, childless women come for blessings of the saint. Even Akbar was blessed with three sons, when he came here. The lattice work in the Dargah is among the finest to be found any where in India.

The Jami Masjid - One of the largest mosques in India, Jami Masjid was built in 1571 AD. Inside, there is a vast congregational coutyard. To the right, at the corner, is the Jammat Khana Hall and next to this is the tomb of the royal ladies. To the left of the Jami Masjid is the Stone Cutters’ mosque, the oldest place of worship at Fateh Pur Sikri. It is entered through the eastern entrance known as the Buland Darwaza.

Palace of Jodha Bai - is the largest and the most important building in the royal palace, named after Akbar’s Rajput wife, Jodha Bai. This spacious palace was assured of privacy and security by high walls and a 9 metre guarded gate to the east. The architecture is a blend of styles with Hindu columns and Muslim cupolas and has a winter & summer palace placed diametrically opposite to each other, separated by a vast courtyard with a central vault for Tulsi plant. Just outside the main gate is the personal kitchen of Jodhabai where the jali work and lattice above it has sculptures replete with designs of Hindu women ear rings.

Sunehra Makann - is the palace of Akbar’s Christian wife, Mariam-Uz-Zamani. This two-storeyed building is richly adorned by gold murals in Persian style. The beams have inscriptions of verses by Akbar’s brother, Faizi.

Panch Mahal - To the right of Sunehra Makan is the elegant, airy 5 storeyed pavilion, the Panch Mahal. Each floor over here is smaller than the one below and it rises to a single domed kiosk on top supported by four columns providing a magnificent view of the city and its environs.

Diwan-I-Am - or the Hall Of Public Audience. This hall was also used for celebrations and public prayers. Beautiful jali screen on either sides separated the ladies attending the court.

Diwan-khana-I-khaas - or Hall Of Private Audience, in its centre stands a profusely carved column supporting a colossal-bracketed capital. Four narrow causeways radiate from the centre and run to each corner of the chamber. It is believed that Akbar’s throne occupied the circular space over the capital and the corners were assigned to the four ministers.

Turkish Sultana’s House - This palace is attributed to the third wife of Emperor Akbar and to make her feel comfortable, the geometrical pattern on the walls and ceiling are reminiscent of Central Asian carvings in wood.

The Treasury - or Ankh Michauli, once believed to have been used for playing the game, comprising three rooms each protected by a narrow corridor which were manned by guards.

Daulat khana-I-khas & Anoop Talao - Located in the corner to the left is the emperor’s private chamber. It has two main rooms on the ground floor. One housed Akbar’s library while the larger room was his resting area. On the first floor is the Khwabgah or the bed-chamber. It was connected with the Turkish Sultana’s house, the Panch Mahal, Mariam’s House and the Jodha Bai’s palace by corridors. In front is the water tank also called Anoop Talao where famed Tansen used to sing for the emperor.

Astrologer's seat - A palace which was intricately sculpted and next to the Diwan e Khas was the seat for the royal Astrologer who used to fortell the position of the stars and advise the emperor accordingly for carrying out his day to day duties.

Arunachal Pradesh - Visiting the North East (Part-II)

Arunachal Pradesh – the land of dawn lit mountains

(From Tezpur to Bomdila)

A typical bomboo house in Tezpur suburb

The trip to Arunachal Pradesh began with a misadventure and ended with a hair raising one. After having been assured that we would commence with our journey at 6.30 A.M. sharp in the morning, we got up early and after the morning chores & ablutions, were all rearing to go for the famed destination. In order to be doubly sure, I went to the agency at 6.15 A.M. and was assured by its proprietor who goes by the nick-name of ‘Bhuttu’ that the vehicle was ready and we should check out of the hotel. On his advice I immediately rushed back to the hotel, cleared the check and was out on the street for the vehicle to arrive. After an irksome wait for about 15 minutes or so on the road, I asked the proprietor regarding the status of the vehicle who informed me that the vehicle which had arrived last night was being washed. Assured, we kept our vigil for another 15 minutes, but there was no sight of the said vehicle. By this time, the proprietor had slinked away and when I asked the person manning the counter, he gave the routine reply that the vehicle was being washed. We waited for a further period of about 20 minutes, sitting like a destitute on the road, akin to having been thrown out of the Hotel for non payment? My patience had really been tried by then and I went to the counter once again and asked the counter clerk to connect me to the proprietor. Having, got him over his mobile phone, I gave him a piece of my mind and asked him that in case he did not have the vehicle, he should tender back my advance payment made to him, so that I could negotiate with some other operator. The rebuke worked and dirty Sumo arrived with the outer side covered with filth and the rest all of you well understand. I got the boys to thrown a few buckets of water on the vehicle and then boarded it at around 7.30 A.M. and started for the onward journey.

Nameri National Park entry

The driver who was an irksome fellow and his antics I have already described in the travelogue of this series (titled – General Information), firstly made a detour to his house with the excuse of fetching warm clothing for the journey ahead. But this detour was pleasant as we got an opportunity to have a peek at the mighty Bharmaputra River and at the local village houses. However, after this brief detour, we commenced with our journey for our first destination for the day in Arunchal Pradesh i.e. Bhalukpong. After getting the tank upped with 45 liters of diesel from Tezpur we raced towards our destination going past lush green fields with tinge of moisture in the air and looming black clouds in the distance. After journeying for and hour & a half we reached Balipara, which is a junction for traveling towards multifarious destinations in Arunachal Pradesh. Having gone past Balipara we entered the famed ‘NameriNational Park’, home to white-winged wood duck (Deo Hanh ) apart from the black bear, deer and elephants, which sometimes move onto the main highways too during the night. As we entered the Nameri area, it had started to rain heavily and as we were about to enter Bhalukpong, the back tyre of the vehicle got punctured, although I noticed the same instantly, the driver did not seem bothered. However, on my insistence he stopped the vehicle and reported that my presumption was correct, but in the same breath blurted out that the owner would not bear his medical expenses in case he fell ill and therefore, decided to take the vehicle at snails pace for the next 2 Kms. or so till he reached Bhalukpong. I was apprehensive that the rim of the vehicle would get damaged in the process, but he assured me that the vehicle usually carried far more weight when it traveled with ten people & luggage on board, with only the four of us in the vehicle, it was almost like running an empty vehicle.

The Jia Bhareli River at Bhalukpong

Orchids at Tipi Orchidarium

We reached Bhalukpong at around 9.30 A.M. and after getting the necessary entry formalities completed, we got ready to fix the punctured tyre and install the extra tyre carried by the vehicle. But to our utter dismay, we found that that the extra tyre was totally worn out and the punctured tyre, due to abuse by the driver, had been damaged beyond repair. The driver rang up the proprietor of the firm immediately, who assured us of sending a fresh tyre on priority. To while away the time, we entered a local restaurant to have our breakfast and consumed the same at leisurely pace, assuming that the tyre would arrive in two hours time i.e. time taken by our vehicle to reach Bhalukpong. But when the tyre did to arrive even at 12.30 P.M and the driver was also slinking away out of eyesight leaving us stranded, I rang up the proprietor myself and sought an explanation for putting such tyre as extra in such treacherous conditions. However, after a long wait which seemed like eons, the tyre arrived at 1.15 P.M and we commenced with our journey at 1.30 P.M., having wasted one hour in the morning at Tezpur itself and four hours in Bhalukpong. This five hour delay cost us dearly as we had to give a miss to some destinations we had planned to visit during the course of the day.

Dense jungles beyond Bhalukpong & clouds gathering

The West Kameng River

Getting past Sessa - clouds enveloping the mountains all around

Beyond Bhalukpong, at a distance of 05 Kms. lies Tipi situated on the banks of Jia Bhareli river or Kameng river which is famous for its Orchidarium. The Orchadarium house a variety of indigenous varieties of orchids inside green houses as well as maintains the species in primitive conditions, having been repatriated from places inside Arunachal Pradesh itself, but now endangered. Across the Kameng river is the Pakhui Wildlife Sanctuary, which appeared to be an interesting stop, where one can linger awhile, but due to paucity of time we had to drop this destination from our itinerary. Further ahead the road gradually snakes upwards and leads through many a small village strewn across. Our next stop was at a non descript place called Sessa from where the road bifurcates to another place called Seppa, inhabited by the Bungun tribe who are considered to be vicious & notorious by the locals all around and the drivers dread to travel to this place. The driver after having partaken lunch and after some honking of the horn by my daughter, we started our journey beyond Sessa. The next destination that we reached was a small wayside ‘Durga Mandir’ maintained by the armed forces, before passing by the famous Nechiphu pass (zero point) situated at an altitude of 6000 feet/52 Kms. from Bhalukpong. Having crossed the pass, the road started its descent till it reached Tenga Cantonment at height of 4000 feet, in between we had a brief stop at a place called Nag Mandir where the details of vehicles etc. are entered by the local Police authorities. Enroute one can also visit Jamiri, which is at a distance of 67 Kms. from Bhalukpong and is famous for Fishing, Picnic spots, Megalithic stone and Rock climbing. Rupa, which is one of the sub-divisions of Bomdila and situated at a distance of 77 Kms. from Bhalukpong, this place offers views of natural Valley, Rupa Gonpa, Chilli-pam Monastery and the Wild life sanctuary (Near Singchung) and other places like Shergaon etc. The route to the Rupa valley bifurcates from Tenga and is another 10-12 Kms. from Tenga. However, having lost five hours and with the evening approaching fast and consequently the availability of daylight deteriorating rapidly, we had no other option left, but to bye-pass this destination as well. It was late in the evening when we reached Bomdila township and after seeking out a Hotel i.e. Hotel Tashi Den, we were ready to retire for the night. The rain & winds that lashed the township during the day, had brought down the temperatures considerably and we had to seek the warmth of the room heater to get cozy and drown a few cups of Coffee & drank hot water served by the Hotel staff, before we could gather energy to go and gorge out the dinner. The room being cozy and comfortable, we had a very pleasant nights sleep.

The Nechiphu Pass - all mist & rain

Nag Mandir - just before passing by Tenga (being Military base did not photograph the area)

Despite the photographs that I have placed in the travelogue, nothing beats the moving images captured through video, you may enjoy the visual treat -