Rejuvenating in Rishikesh

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Rejuvenating in Rishikesh

Ganga aarti being performed at Rishikesh

         I had last visited the Garhwal region, especially the Chardham route way back in 2007 and thereafter have been busy visiting other regions.  I had briefly visited the Garhwal region during my trip to Chakrata in January, 2011 and thereafter visited Lansdowne and Khirsu in January, 2012.  Whereas, the first trip was from Dehradun side, the other one was through Kotdwar side and only during the return trip from Khirsu, I traversed briefly through Rishikesh while returning back to Delhi.  So in effect, it was a journey to this part almost after 10 long years, especially after the tragedy that befell this region in the summers of 2013.  During this trip, I found that the region was much changed, as expected, but a journey to the hills of Uttarakhand is always welcome, as it provides solace to the tormented souls.  Thus, begins my first blog for the New Year, with a visit to the Dev Bhoomi or Land of Gods.  We started from Delhi on 30^th December, 2017 for the brief tour that included visit to Chopta and the first halt was at Rishikesh, about 241 odd kilometers from Delhi.  The journey, to begin with, was not without a bit of drama, as near Meerut a Roadways bus overtaking our car from the left hand side pushed it towards the main road and as is in vogue in the state of Uttar Pradesh (I sometimes jovially refer to it as ‘ulta’ - meaning opposite in English - Pradesh) wherein all kinds of vehicles ride on the National Highways, a small truck like vehicle with heavy metal girders built around its front side scrapped past the front mudguard of our car, thereby dislodging it in its entirety.  We had to spend more than an hour to find a suitable mechanic to repair it.

Ganga aarti that was performed way back in 2008

Offering prayers after completion of Ganga aarti

Rishikesh  is situated 27 Kms. upstream from Haridwar on the foothills of Shivalik hills where the holy River Ganga makes her first footfall, just before entering the great plains in India.   Rishikesh township is also the entry point for three districts of Uttarakhand State of India, namely Dehradun, Tehri Garhwal and Pauri Garhwal. It is also the gateway to the famed Chardham Yatra The town is located at an average elevation of 372 meters from sea level. Rishikesh and the nearby town of Haridwar are well-connected through road and rail with many North Indian cities including Delhi, Jaipur, Varanasi, Amritsar, etc. The place is associated with lord Ram who is said to have done penance here on advice of sage Vashistha before embarking on his mission to kill Ravana.  There are several other mythological beliefs associated with this ancient place, the other one being that after long penance by sage Rabiya Rishi, god named Hrishikesh (another incarnation of Lord Vishnu) appeared before him and the place derives the name from and gradually it became Risikesh.  Another mythological event associated with this destination is that Bharat brother of Lord Ram also performed penance and hence a temple dedicated to him stands in this township.  However, the visit by the famed Adi Shankracharya during the 9^th century AD gave fame and name to destination as a spiritual doorway to the kingdom of the Gods and it is the entry point for the famed Chardham Yatra that attracts lakhs of tourists from all over India and the world.

Parmarth Niketan Ashram across the River Ganga that holds elaborate Ganga aarti

Ganga River upstream of Rishikesh

Panoramic view of Rishikesh

The other attractions of Rishikesh, apart from the mythological importance are the existence of many temples, ashrams etc. in and around it and to detail some –

Neelkanth Mahadev temple

Neelkanth Mahadev - is 32 Kms from Rishikesh and is connected by Taxis which run on shared basis as well as can be hired individually.  The place derives its name from the mytholigical event of Samudra Manthan wherein the venom/vish generated during the manthan / churningwas gulped down by Lord Shiva and held in his throat (Kanth in hindi) because of which his body turned blue (Neel in hindi) and hence the place is known as Neelkanth.  The temple situated here boasts of South India style architecture and has a huge silver Shivling situated inside.

Laxman Jhula -There are many mythological tales associated with this bridge. According to myths, the bridge got its name from Hindu Lord Rama’s brother Laxman, who crossed the river Ganga at the same site with jute ropes.  Situated about 4 Km from the main Rishikesh town, Laxman Jhula, a 450 feet long hanging bridge across the river Ganga at a height of 70 feet, is one of the most popular sightseeing destinations in Uttarakhand. 

Panoramic view of Ram Jhula

Ram Jhula - Yet another suspended bridge in Rishikesh is the Ram Jhula. The bridge serves as the connection between the Shivanand Ashram and Swarg Ashram. It is dedicated to Ram, Lakshmana's elder brother.

Trimbakeshwar temple alongwith Laxman Jhula

Trimbakeshwar Temple - is among the spectacular temples situated in Rishikesh. Also known Tera-Manzil temple, it has built up 13 stories and is the largest temple of Rishikesh. Its ornate and symmetric architecture, nearness to Lakshman Jhula, and panoramic view one gets from temple’s top, make it extremely popular among tourists. Tera-Manzil is also famous amongst the tourists for its beautifully crafted idols of various Hindu Gods and Goddesses, coupled with its collection of various traditional artifacts. While devotees are driven by their devotion enthusiastically climb up the 13 storey, whereas the other not so religiously committed tourists take up the challenge, so as to relish the scenic view of the town and the majestic Himalayas from the 13th floor, especially at sunset.

During the recent years Yoga has made a mark on the World map, but Rishikesh has been the Yoga capital for many years now.  The self-styled yoga capital of the world surely lives up to its name. Unlike what many believe, Rishikesh didn’t step up on the yoga pedestal when the Beatles arrived here. In fact, Rishikesh, often referred to as the Gateway to Himalayas, has been the base camp for ascetics and sages travelling to and from the Himalayas, after having spent years learning yoga and meditation from their gurus in the white wilderness. However, the coming of Beatles sure put Rishikesh on the international map.  Rishikesh is home to - numerous ashrams that offer yoga classes and lodging at a nominal fee, yoga teacher training retreats which are thronged by international yoga practitioners who want to advance their practice and become certified teachers, and luxury yoga and Ayurveda resorts that offer extended wellness holidays interspersed with yoga , organic diets and high-end spa treatments.  Almost all ashrams in and around Rishikesh have been built by some religious guru or his foundation. Most ashrams offer classes on classic yoga and meditation. They even offer lodging and satvic food to travelers.  Nestled away from the chaotic mundane life, premium yoga resorts offer not just change of scenery but a luxurious wellness holiday - where yoga meets 5 star ambience, Ayurvedic massages, and therapeutic and beauty spas. Guests get an opportunity to unwind, detoxify and explore the surroundings. These resorts are a perfect getaway for those looking for a healthy and rejuvenating holiday; and for those wanting to experience yoga. The town is peppered with a number of ashrams, world renowned centers for spiritual studies and lessons on meditation. Some of the most popular and much visited ashrams in Rishikesh include Paremarth Niketan, Sivanand Ashram, Yoga Niketan, Omkaranand Ashram, Vanprastha Ashram, Shankaracharya Nagar Transcendental Meditation Centre, Vithal Ashram and Yoga Study Centre. 

Commencing with the rituals of Ganga aarti at Shatrughan ghat in Rishikesh

Ganga Aarti – Another aspect that has now made an impact on Rishikesh is the performance of Ganga aarti at various ghats & ashrams across the township situated along the banks of holy River Ganga.  Earthen and dough lamps floating in small leaf boats on the river banks, coupled with the chanting of sacred hymns reverberating in your ears and flickering flames emanating from the hand held brass lamps inspire a feeling of awe and reverence stirring ones’ heart & soul.  With the mighty Sun taking the final bow for the day, as it appears to dip into the holy Ganga River – it is a site to behold, which is both invigorating as it is soothing. Spiritually inclined or not, attending the Ganga aarti at Rishikesh is a memory that is etched in the hearts of the onlookers for a lifetime.  As the sun sets, priests start chanting sacred hymns while rotating huge oil lamps burning bright with large flames. The devotees can be seen putting earthen lamps wrapped in leaves in the holy river. Mirroring the night sky littered with sparkling stars, the entire bank is lit up with earthen lamps, where somewhere in the background music can be heard playing as the priests and devotees sing Sanskrit hymns in praise of their dear Goddess, in a mellifluous chorus.  The Ganga aarti can be witnessed at the Triveni Ghats and at Parmarth Niketan Ashram every day at dusk. Everyone is welcome to attend the aarti. However, visitors are expected to respect the sanctity of the ritual and the place. At the Triveni ghats, local priests conduct the aarti. The aarti at Parmarth Niketan is slightly different, as ashram residents, especially children who come there to learn the vedas, conduct it. A havan and hymn singing precede the aarti. Visitors looking to experience the aarti should arrive at the chosen venue an hour before dusk to book a spot from where they can witness the spectacular ritual with ease.  A surreal experience, the Ganga aarti evokes different emotions in different people. And irrespective of the visitors’ background and knowledge, its power is universal. 

One of the many adventure sports offered in & around Rishikesh - Rafting

Rafting – Taking advantage of its’ unique position, being situated at the foothills of the Himalayas, as the Ganges snakes down the Himalayas into the Indian planes, it offers perfect white rapids for rafting. Flanked by snow and tree covered mountains, the rapids are of varying intensity; perfect for novices as well as rafting pros.  Plunging from the Himalayan glaciers, the River Ganga promises adrenalin-gushing adventure and complements it with a superb view.  River Rafting in Rishikesh is for everyone. From short rafting tours to rafting journeys laced with activities like mountaineering, rappelling, and camping, Rishikesh has something to offer to all adventure seekers desire. Tourists looking for a thrill in their holiday can take a half-day rafting tour at rapids of grade level I & II, while the pros can spend an entire weekend camping and exploring each of the 16 rapids. Tour operators offer all-inclusive packages for adventure seekers including rafting, camping, mountaineering and more in a 3-night stretch. Most tour operators can be found online and offer good deals.  Rapid is most tame at Brahmpuri that has Grade II rapids.  The stretch between Kaudilya and Rishikesh at about 36 kms is the longest stretch and is home to grade IV & V level rapids, making it the most difficult stretch in the entire rafting route.   Each rapid has a unique and interesting name. There are the benign ones like Sweet Sixteen and Double Trouble, which can be enjoyed by the entire family. Then there are the likes of adrenalin pumping Golf Course, The Wall, and Roller Coaster, traversed by rafting junkies. Amongst these, the Wall, which falls in the Kaudilya-Rishikesh stretch of the rafting zone, is considered the most dangerous and challenging rapid. 

Here is the link to the video of performance of Ganga Aarti in Rishikesh -