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Monday, December 21, 2020

Nondescript destinations of Kumaon – Bhimal

Nondescript destinations of Kumaon – Bhimal

View of Bhimtal lake and township during sunset

Bhimtal is the biggest lake in the Nainital district of Uttarakhand.  This lake has been in existence since ancient times, being a gateway to the plains below for people moving in from present day Pithoragarh and Tibet etc. for trade during historic times.  It was discovered by the British only in 1841 and developed to some extent by them.  Folklore of the region say that the Pandavas had visited the place and Draupadi was thirsty, so Bhima struck the ground and water flowed forth in this place that formed a lake and since then the water continues of replenish the lake perennially, thus, the lake is named after him as Bhimtal.  An ancient Shiva temple, known as ‘Bhimeshwara Mahadev’ temple is also located in Bhimtal, which as per folklore is touted to have been built by Bhima and has been standing there since centuries.  The present temple was renovated in the 17th Century A.D by Kumaon King Baz Bahadur of Chand dynasty.

Bird's eye view of Bhimtal - all buildings cramping up the place

Panoramic view of Bhimtal lake
                 
As the clouds envelope Bhimtal lake during monsoon

Another view of Bhimtal lake during monsoon
        Geographically, Bhimtal is located about 22 Kms. from Nainital and about 20 Kms. from the last railhead Kathgodam.  It is perched at an altitude of 1370 meters and enjoys a salubrious climate the year round.   Bhimtal is situated at the base of Karkotaka mountain, named after the famed mythological Snake.  At present Bhimtal has become a hub of housing activity all across this mountain, with several individual and apartments coming up in the region.  The tourists get to enjoy boat ride in the lake and also angling facility.  During the recent past the adventure of para gliding has also been added in the list of activities that the tourists can enjoy.  The STD Code for Bhimtal is – 05942 and the Pin Code of Bhimtal is – 263136.

 Here is a short video of the destination

© S Roy Biswas

 

 

 

 


Friday, November 20, 2020

Nondescript destination of Kumaon – Bhowali

Nondescript destination of Kumaon – Bhowali

Bhowali main junction - the road from top side leads to Nainital

Bhowali can be called the nerve centre of Kumaon, as in order to proceed towards a majority of destinations in Kumaon, one has to pass through this nondescript little village town, which is also known as the fruit market of the region.  Situated at a distance of about 34 kms. from the railhead of Kathgodam, one can approach Bhowali either from Nainital side through Jeolikote or from Bhimtal side, which is a wee bit shorter road.  If one approaches from the Nainital side, one will have to cross this destination even for visiting the Champawat side.  However, if one is traversing from Bhimtal side, the road towards Champawat bi-furcates mid-way.  For visiting Mukteshwar, Almora or Ranikhet and beyond, one has to cross this nondescript township and hence I call it the nerve centre of Kumaon, specifically as the all arterial roads lead through this destination.

Panoramic view of Bhowali village

 Perched at an altitude of about 1650 meters, the township enjoys a salubrious climate all year round.  Being an old market, it has been the outlet for sale of stone fruits like plum, pear, apple et al that grow around it in Nainital, Ramgarh etc.  and available during summers and early monsoon.  During the fall season, other fruits like walnuts, hazelnuts, chestnuts etc. make an appearance in the market and is a main attraction for the tourists passing by, who enjoy these mountain fruits, as per the season and this at times creates a traffic jam in the region, as not enough space is available for parking of the vehicles.  Apart from fruits, I personally while traversing through this market, especially on my way back to Delhi, source fresh vegetables, be it cabbages, peas, cauliflowers (during summers also) or various kinds of other local green leafy vegetables (known as ‘saag’ in Hindi), as I find them to be more tasty and fresh, than from what we get here in Delhi. 

One of the hotels in Bhowali - on road towards Almora

During monsoons this hotel is full of Begonia flowers (tuberos variety) - a close up of the same

Bhowali township is almost as old as Nainital, as because of its salubrious climes it housed a Sanatorium for Tuberculosis patients that was built way back in 1912.  The place is named after a small village that is placed about  3 Kms. from the main road that runs from just below the Sanatorium gate and goes by the same name i.e. Bhowali.  Bhowali, apart from the Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam managed Tourist Rest House (TRH),  now has quite a few homestays just beyond the municipal limits on way of Mukheshwar and Almora, hence can be easily be used as a base point for day visits to places like – a) The famous Ghora Khal temple dedicated to Golu Devta (a local and reverend God of justice); b)  Ramgarh & Mukteshwar; c) Kainchi Dham (only eight Kms. Away) and on other side d) Bhimtal; e) Sattal etc., many such nondescript little destinations are also placed within the Bhowali Tehsil.   It would be a good idea to stay in such a location, being cheaper but with all amenities during travel.  The STD code for the destination is – 5492 and PIN Code is – 263132.

 Here is a short video of the destination


 © S Roy Biswas

Sunday, October 18, 2020

Nondescript destinations of Kumaon – Khairna

Nondescript destinations of Kumaon – Khairna

Panoramic view of Kosi River meeting Khairna River at Khairna

            Having described Tarikhet in my previous blog, as I reiterate my steps back towards Kathgodam from my village Badankhet in Tarikhet Block in Ranikhet Tehsil of Almora District in Uttarakhad in Kumaon region of the State, one passes through the junction of Ganiadholi, wherefrom the road bifurcates towards Ranikhet and Tarikhet.  Thereafter, as one heads away from Ranikhet, one comes across villages like Pilkholi, known to the travellers where one can buy traditional Kumaoni sweets like Choclate (a milk based product), Bal Mithai and Singhori (remaining ones too be milk based sweets).  Thereafter, across the twenty three kilometres journey from Tarikhet to Khairna one passes by many other villages perched by the roadside in the following sequence - Bajol – Bhujan – Majhera.  Thereafter, one crosses the bridge across Kosi River and turn right towards Kharina and the other road from here, towards the left hand side,  heads towards Almora.  Thus, Khairna (PIN Code – 263135/STD Code – 05942) is also basically a junction point, wherefrom the road bifurcates towards Ranikhet and Almora.
Ganiadholi - wherefrom road bifurcates towards Ranikhet & Tarikhet
A panoramic view of villages perched on the road from Ranikhet to Khairna

            Khairna is also a market township that caters to the needs of the villages all around it that are situated on the road towards Betalghat and other villages of Naintial district around it.  Earlier, the two destinations of Khairna and thereafter, Garam Pani were distinct and separate, but over the years, with the spread of the market area along the highway, the distinction has all but faded.  There is a Petrol pump situated in this quaint village town, being bang on the National Highway 109.  Khairna is situated on the confluence of the Kosi and Khairna Rivers, the first one flowing from Almora side and the second one from Nainital side.  Khairna is thus, placed in the valley perched in between mountains at an altitude of 913.34 meters i.e. about 2996.51 feet above mean sea level (MSL).  Therefore, during the day time in summers it is considerably hot and heat is modest during the nights.  However, during winters it is quite cold but not totally unpleasant. 

Khairna by night - shot taken from KMVN, Khairna
A Crested Kingfisher in Kosi River - early morning shot

View of TRH at Khairna managed by KMVN - sourced from internet

            There are no distinct travel landmarks in Khairna, but can be used as a transit point while travelling to distant destinations in the Kumaon region.  Although fishing is prohibited, but one can enjoy feeding the fishes by going down the stairs of the KMVN managed Tourist Rest House in Khairna, which also offers a restaurant as well as rooms to stay for the tourists/visitors.  The freshly cooked food in this restaurant has always been my favourite and whenever, I traverse through this part, especially when travelling by train upto Kathgodam, I stop here for either lunch or snacks and never had any complaint regarding the quality of food.  Various aquatic birds can also be spotted in this region, especially early in the mornings and hence a short stopover for birders is also advisable.  So next time you are in Kumaon, remember this quaint nondescript destination.

 Here is a short video of the destination


 © S Roy Biswas