Yamuna Bio-diversity Park – a nature reclamation story

Yamuna Bio-diversity Park – a nature reclamation story

(A photo-blog)

Lotus in bloom in Yamuna Biodiversity Park phase-II

Brochure of the Yamuna Bio-diversity Park

The hind side of the brochure - displaying the map & location of the Park

I read the following article in the ‘Pioneer’ some time back and would like to reproduce a part from it - “Rapid industrialization and human encroachments had left the Capital bereft of its natural glory. The development of this wilderness has set an example for not just States within our country but also countries across the globe that are now trying to emulate this nature reserve. Recently we had a delegation of Canadian students to visit the park. Researchers from Britain and France have also come in the recent times to the park,” said CR Babu, environment professor at Delhi University….the Yamuna Biodiversity Park has about 1,000 species of flowering plants which used to exist in the flood plains several decades ago. These species have been thriving in the form of 20-25 plant communities. It also has moist deciduous forests, dry deciduous forests tropical thorn forests, scrub grasslands and the most biologically rich grasslands. “The Yamuna Biodiversity Park is based on the ecosystem model. It is a 10-year-old plantation. The ecosystem is fully developed. All the faunal elements have come on their own…”.  Being a nature enthusiast, I was planning to visit the destination since then, but could not precisely locate it on the map.  I was working for a few years in the Delhi Development Authority and was aware of the such a project, but the tight schedule kept me from visiting it.  However, when I returned to my parent cadre of Delhi Government, I got posted in the Transport Department and further to that got deployed in Burari.  I knew that the Park was in the vicinity, but no one seemed to have a clear idea about the place.  I once tried by going towards the Wazirabad barrage, but could not locate it.  Later, I found out some local contact and was able to visit the destination for the first time November, 2015 and as many birds had not arrived, I took another chance in end December, 2015 but it appears that Delhi and its surroundings have been given a pass over this year by the migratory birds as the day temperatures had remained much higher than normal throughout.

Common Moorhen in the Yamuna Bio-diversity Park

Common teal in the Yamuna Bio-diversity Park phase-II

Egret in action in the Yamuna Bio-diversity Park - phase-II

Purple Heron in the Yamuna Bio-diversity Park - phase-II

     The brochure and website for the destination informs that this project had been conceptualized & designed in association with the academia from the Centre for Environmental Management of Degraded Ecosystems (CEMDE), Delhi University and other prominent institutes & Scientists, the park has been intelligently demarcated on the basis of utility. There is a visitor's zone with an Interpretation Centre & a Domesticated Biodiversity Zone facilitating awareness trips & research. The result is an area of over 400 Acres depicting a rich kaleidoscope of flora & fauna in the middle of a metropolis desperately looking for more green lungs.  Having visited the place in person and having a Honors Degree in Botany from Delhi University, from the little knowledge I hold, I would agree that the team has done an appreciable work in restoring the flora & fauna as per the habitat and efforts have been made to source the naturally occurring endemic species and help them proliferate.  The emphasis on natural flora has in turn attracted the local avian fauna, as natural food like berries & fruits have become available to them and thus, the effort to nudge in the nature for reclamation of the land has paid rich dividends.  The park is now in process of doing a second project nearby and the work in this respect has already started for the second phase, which is located nearby, but with a larger area and huge water reservoir.  The link to the website for further information is - https://dda.org.in/greens/biodiv/yamuna-biodiversity-park.html

Cormorants flocking together at the Yamuna Biodiversity Park

On for the hunt - Cormorants in Yamuna Bio-diversity Park

At present there are three Birding hot spots that are regularly explored by birders from Delhi and NCR to watch and photograph various species of birds – Okhla Bird Sanctuary (which I have covered in my earlier blog), Yamuna Biodiversity Park and Yamuna Khadar.  The Yamuna Biodiversity Park is situated in Burari areas Jagatpur Village, in North Delhi and spread across an area of 457-acres of nature’s reserve, which has been especially created to replicate the lost ecosystems of the Yamuna river and reclaim the area by restoring its natural habitat. Once a barren land, it now houses wetlands and forests, sheltering over 1500 plants, insects, birds, fish and mammal species.   Yamuna Khadar is basically a wide partly cultivated and partly barren land on Yamuna bank which can be covered from Jagatpur Bandh Marg which connects Wazirabad Road near Wazirabad crossing on outer Ring road. The road goes almost parallel to Yamuna and few marsh areas can be seen alongside and this is being developed as Phase-II of the Yamuna Biodiversity Park.  In years to come, if this ecological experiment continues in the right earnest the naturalists in the coming years will have the delight of watching more exotic migratory birds etc. visiting the spot.   The Yamuna Biodiversity Park is a must visit destination for all nature lovers, as it will provide encouragement to do a little for the environment and help it regain its balance.

A cacophony of water birds in the Yamuna Biodiversity Park - phase-II

River gulls wading in the amuna Biodiversity Park - phase-II

A brush with the Kumaoni culture & heritage

A brush with the Kumaoni culture & heritage

Sunrise across the valley in Timila Village, Raikhet, Almora, Uttarakhand

            Children’s growing up has its own advantages & disadvantages, for one when they are young and in primary classes, if travel bug hits you, one can forego a few days of classes, without much of a hassle.  However, if they are in higher classes, this liberty goes away and you have to adhere to the school schedule strictly and in the senior most sections, it is almost impossible even to get out during the routine holiday sessions too.  I got struck with a similar predicament this year and could not go ahead and book in advance, as the schedule of teachers & tuitions were not clearly chalked out and hence I had no other option but to check into my small pad in Timila village in Ranikhet Tehsil during the summer vacations in June, 2015.  Thus, it became the first occasion for me to experience the culture & heritage of Kumaon at close quarters.

The Jagar ceremony about to begin

           I have traveled all across Kumaon extensively and also many regions of Garwal, but merely as tourist, merely touching upon the tourist spots spread across Uttarakhand (earlier known as Uttaranchal).  However, the extended stay in a nondescript village exposed me to the day to day routine and cultural heritage of Kumaon region.  The Central Himalayan region comprising Kumaon and Garhwal is known as Uttarakhand.  This region has largely remained unknown due to lack of information and accessibility. From early times onwards, geographical factors have played a key role in shaping the history and culture of this region. Another factor which has contributed in a large way towards the culture of Uttaranchal is the waves of migration to this region from the Gangetic plains, Punjab and Rajasthan particularly, also extending from parts of Maharashtra during the medieval periods, either because of exploitation by Muslim invaders or on invitation to scholars & Pundits by the Royalty of the region. The impact of these migrations can be seen in the religious and socio-cultural practices of the people of Kumaon and Garhwal. This is particularly evident in the rich folklore of Uttarakhand, which throws a vivid light on the social and cultural conditions of this region.

The Jagariya with traditional instruments Dagru & Thali

The Syonkar on left foreground, Priest on right foreground and Dagariya near temple

            The day we reached our modest dwelling, there was quite a cacophony in the vicinity and in no time we received an invitation to be part of a Jagar ceremony being convened by our next door neighbors.  This was an alien concept for me and after checking out as to what would be our part in the proceedings, whether some monetary donations etc. was required to be made etc., we proceeded to be a part of the proceedings.   Jagar is a form of ancestor spirit worship practiced in the hills of Kumaon and Garwal. The word Jagar originates from the Sanskrit root Jaga (meaning to wake), Jagar is a medium or way by which Gods and local deities are invoked or woken from their dormant stage and asked for favors or remedies for certain problems plaguing the person or village as a whole.  It is attached to the idea of divine justice and is organized to seek penance for a crime or seek justice from the Gods for some injustice.  Music is the medium through which the gods are invoked. The singer or Jagariya sings a ballad of the gods with references drawn from the great epics like the Mahabharata and Ramayana and also from folklore of local deities, wherein the adventures and exploits of the God being invoked are sung.  Apparently, the hard life of the hills accompanied with lack of basic facilities and isolation from the mainstream, accompanied with constant exposure to the vagaries of nature, has inspired a strong belief in paranormal phenomena and also in numerous Folk Gods who have gained great reverence and respect of these hill dwellers. Every village had its own God protecting its boundaries called Bhumyal or Kshetrapal, each family has its Kul Devta or Kul Devi and numerous other benevolent demi-Gods/Goddesses and malicious spirits, which could reward or torment people and had to be appeased.  The isolation of these regions of the Himalayas has promoted the emergence of local religious traditions, which are still strong in these regions along with mainstream Hinduism.  Jagar ceremonies are of two types one is the Dev Jagar, the invocation of a god, usually local gods in the body of the medium and the other is the Bhut Jagar, the invocation of a deceased person spirit or soul in the medium’s body.

The Jagariya in his full rhythm

Having experienced the rituals, I got interested in understanding the proceedings of Jagar and collected first hand information from he villagers as well as the oft reliable source i.e. the internet.  The integral parts of the Jagar ritual are – i) Jagariya is the person who is the singer of the ballads of the Gods and who leads the rituals and invokes the Gods by calling upon them, he is assisted by two or more men who sing along with him in chorus; ii) Dagariya is the medium, whose body is used by the Gods when they are invoked. Dagariya comes from the Kumaoni word Dagar (meaning way), he is the one who shows the way; and iii) Syonkar is the person who organizes the Jagar to seek divine intervention to his problems. The Jagar is held at his home or family temple.  The rituals are followed in the prescribed manner - The room and during this occasion the family temple,  in which the Jagar is to be performed is purified by purification processes closely administered by the Jagar singer or ‘’Jagariya’’.  The ‘Dhuni’ or sacred fire is lit for performing the ‘Homa’, which is the process of chanting or recitation of religious hymns through purification by fire.  The musical instruments used are the ‘Hurka’, ‘Dhol’, ‘Damau’ & ‘Thali’ all of which are percussion instruments native to Uttarakhand, played by the professional musicians & Jagariyas themselves.   The actual ritual begins with singing of ‘Sanjhvali Geet’, wherein all Gods are remembered and their names repeated and assistance sought for a successful completion of the Jagar.  This is followed by the ‘Birtvai’, wherein the divine spirit being invoked upon is praised and ballads related to his or her adventures and his or her life are sung out loud.  The next stage is known as the ‘Ausan’, wherein the beats of the ‘Hurka’ and the other instruments are slowly increased in a crescendo.  Now the ‘Dagariya’ starts going into a state of a trance with frenzied movement.   Another essential part of the ritual is known as the ‘Guru Aarti’, as it is based on a local belief that all Gods, Demi-Gods in the local pantheon of Kumaon are believed to be disciples of Guru Gorakhnath and therefore, he too is appeased and remembered and his protection is also sought.  As the ceremony nears its end, ‘Kakh Raman’ is applied on foreheads of all present, which is the  ash known as ‘Bibhuit’ obtained from the ‘Homa’ ash, offered during the fire sacrifice made to the Gods.  Thereafter, some senior citizens expresses the ‘Dainik Vichar’, which means thinking about the provider, they contemplate about God and the way he provides for us.  As the ceremony draws to a close, the people present are ritually blessed by the priests who pray for their prosperity, this is known as ‘Ashirwad’.  Finally, to conclude the proceedings, the Gods are requested to return or ‘Prasthan’ for their respective heavenly abodes, at this concluding stage of the Jagar cenermony/ritual.  Behind the performance of Jagar is the deep-seated belief of the people of Uttarakhand in divine justice and the law of “karma’ (‘As you sow, so shall you reap’ theory).  It is a deep seated belief set in the minds of these hill people that bad deeds shall be visited upon the doer and that justice will finally be delivered by the Gods.  This has been the essence of their honesty and simplicity, because of which they lead a simple & pure lifestyle, which is now being eroded through exposure to modern way of life, as in cities.

Headed for the village temple of the local Kshetrapal

Front view of Bambaiyanath temple, Timila Village

The Homa site inside Bambaiyanath temple, Timila Village

        As narrated hereinabove, every village has its own God to protect its boundaries known as the Bhumyal or Kshetrapal.  Similarly, Timila village also has its own temple dedicated to village God called ‘Bambaiyanath’.  Although the place where I have built my dwelling is part of the Timila Gram Sabha, but it is known as Badhan Khet and the actual Timila Village is situated below in the valley.  The next morning, as was our plan chalked out even before arriving at Timila, we started early, before the Sun was up to its zenith, as the June Sun is really harsh in the mountains.  It took us a good part of an hour to reach our destination, although it was all the way downhill.  The temple is situated on a spur, right before the actual village boundary starts.  Although there is no visible form of any God or Goddess in the temple, but there is a big Homa spot and evidently the Shaivite traditions are followed here.  There is a small temple dedicated to Goddess Kali also within the precincts of the temple.  A local resident of Timila, who is also overseeing the work of construction, Sh. Bansi Dhar Papnae had graciously extended his help to take us to the village temple and is also an active participant in village activities.  He assured us that it takes about 15 odd minutes for him to reach the top i.e. upto the roadhead, where our dwelling is situated.  Assured that it would not be an arduous trek, we started our ascent, but to our dismay found the trek a wee bit difficult, particularly for my daughter.  After resting hither & thither, we finally reached our next destination for the day i.e. Golu Devta temple of the village.  We performed a small Puja ceremony, conducted by our benefactor Sh. Bansi Dhar Papnae, who is also a Bramhin.  However, by this time we were literally famished, both with exhaustion and hunger, as we had proceeded for the temple without partaking our B’fast.  Having performed the Puja, we sat outside the temple courtyard to partake our packed B’fast, comprising of Aloo Pranthas & tea, which was akin to a picnic. 

 Brass bells of many shapes & sizes inside Bambaiyanath temple, Timila Village

Goddess Kali temple in the precincts of Bambaiyanath temple, Timila Village

Idol of Goddess Kali in the temple in the precincts of Bambaiyanath temple, Timila Village

Sh. Bansi Dhar Papnae offering prayers & performing puja in Golu Devta temple, Timila Village

            We passed our next few days cocooned in the village and our days passed like bliss, with nature at its purest, no noise, dust or suspended particulate pollution.  As the sun set, the twinkling lights of the mountain homes alongwith the twinkling stars merged and occasional firefly passing by was a mesmerizing experience.  Thus, we spent our first vacation in our new dwelling nestled in the hills of Kumoan, experiencing its cultural heritage et al.

Enjoy some views from Badahan Khet, Timila

Lal Kurti region of Ranikhet as seen from Badan Khet, Timila Village

Pali village as seen from Badan Khet, Timila Village

Mangar village as seen from Badan Khet, Timila Village

Himalayan ranges  as seen from Badan Khet, Timila Village

Close up of Trishul mastiff at sunset as seen from Badan Khet, Timila Village

The hill lights & twinkling stars at night as seen from Badan Khet, Timila Village

A joint family dwelling in Timila Village as seen from Badan Khet, Timila Village

An unplanned visit to Corbett

An unplanned visit to Corbett

A barking deer or Kakkar in Corbett

            As usual, this year too we headed to the hills for our short winter vacations.  However, unlike other years when we visited lesser known destinations, as the work regarding construction of my small apartment was in progress and I was required to deliver some goods for the said construction, we all headed for the destination and arrived at Chilyanaula, Ranikhet KMVN to spend a few nights.  After having visited the construction site and delivered the goods, we spent the day there having a picnic with food being cooked on temporary makeshift chulah and with local condiments, which added a special flavour to the simple ‘dal & chawal’ and we enjoyed a good day out.  However, we realized that we had nothing much to contribute to the construction process and would end up having a look around at the same destinations that we have visited many times in the past.  Therefore, after returning back to the Rest house in Chilyanaula, I spoke to the Manager in this regard and he checked the website and suggested that I could move over to Mohan near Corbett, but the difference in tariff would have to be paid by me, as the rooms were costlier at Mohan.  Hearing about the proximity with Corbett, I jumped at the proposition and early next morning we were headed for Mohan.

Sunrise at Chilyanaula

As we head out towards Corbett 

Beyond Bhatrauchkahn - Himalayan view point

Beyond Bhatrauchkahn - Himalayan view point - close up of Nanda Devi range with Trishul

             Mohan is a nondescript little destination situated on the Ranikhet to Corbett State Highway and it has a quaint and quite little Tourist Rest House run by KMVN.  To give you a general idea about it’s proximity with other destinations – Mohan is situated at a distance of 73 Kms. from Ranikhet and the break up of distances are as follows – Ranikhet to Bhatrauchkhan – 27 Kms. and Bhatraouchkhan to Mohan 46 Kms. – Mohan to Ramnagar – 10 Kms. Being situated hardly at a few kilometers distance from Corbett alongwith it’s jungle like ambience, is an added advantage for Mohan.  Having arrived at Mohan, I contacted the Manager seeking advice about visiting Corbett during the afternoon Safari.  I was informed that as the booking was required to done online, it was not possible to visit Corbett on arrival.  I had no idea about the same and therefore had no other option but to rake up my contacts, to at least visit Corbett during the ensuing day.  The idea worked and the contact sent a person who collected our personal details alongwith photocopy of my official Identity card and he also informed me that my entry was subject to any cancellation made.  My program was in much more jeopardy, as during the previous few days, it had been raining ‘cats & dogs’ in the region and the jungle safari had been temporarily halted, which had created additional queue.  Hoping for the best and mentally preparing for the worst, we decided not to waste the day idling and went ahead to visit the famed ‘Girija Devi temple’ nearby.

Bracket fungi on  a Banyan Tree - just as we enter Corbett

The TRH at Mohan

Panoramic view of Garijya temple

As the sun sets across the Kosi River bed

            The temple is dedicated to Girija Ardhangini and is myth-logically identified as being the daughter of the Himalayan mastiff known by the same name.   The temple is situated on a steep mound right in the middle of the Kosi river and during the lean periods the river bifurcates and creates an island around the temple, with the river flowing on either side of it.  However, during the monsoons the island also disappears at times, thereby making visit to this temple very difficult.  To ensure safe passage, the Government has now constructed a sturdy concrete bridge across the river to help the pilgrims visit the famed destination.  The temple is very small and only about 10-15 persons can be accommodated atop it at a time.  The temple has a small 4.5 feet high statute of Goddess Girija Devi accompanied by statues of Lord Ganesha and Goddess Saraswati placed alongside, as the presiding deity is also identified as Parvati of famed Lord Shiva Parvati combine.  It has gained tremendous following during recent years and consequently a small market has emerged along the bank of the river, wherein people are engaged in selling worship/Puja related articles alongwith a few sweetmeat shops sprinkled here & there.  The main pilgrimage to the temple takes place during the Basant Panchami.  We visited the temple and after offering prayers, on our way back we got down and headed onto the banks of Kosi River and enjoyed the sunset before returning back to the Rest House.

A kingfisher basking in morning sun inside Corbett
 

Langurs on tree tops inside Corbett

            As we were having a cup of Coffee in the cold winter evening at TRH Mohan, good news filtered in that there had been a few cancellations because of the inclement weather, however, the trip was subject to the weather conditions improving.  After we have had our dinner and were getting ready to retire for the night early, as next day we were to be picked up at 6.30 A.M for the trip scheduled from the Bijrani Gate entry, it started pouring again.  We tucked ourselves in, a wee bit dejected by the prospect of getting bad news in the morning.  Because of a hectic days schedule coupled with the quiet ambience of the place, we drifted into the land of dreams and were woken up in the morning after the loud sound of the alarm clock went off.  We quickly got dressed and as we were making some final adjustments, the intercom rang informing us of the arrival of the open safari jeep.  It was quite dark when we started and bitterly cold also as the jeep was totally open from all sides.  It took about 20-25 minutes ride to reach Bijrani Gate and after entering the premises, the operator asked for the money as well as the Identity card for making necessary entries.  By stroke of luck and a chance decision, I was inside Corbett for my first maiden journey to any Tiger Reserve.

Cheetal deer (Male) inside Corbett

A Sambhar hiding in the grass

            Corbett National Park has been mesmerizing its visitors with its diverse plethora of wildlife and breathtaking landscapes. It was established way back in 1936, when Corbett attained the distinction of being the first national park to be established in mainland Asia.  The geographical location of this National Park that stretches between the Himalayas and the terai region and the sheer number of streams, rivers and ridges that crisscross its terrain, enrich Corbett with a remarkable variety of landscapes. This vivid mosaic of habitats – wet and dry, plain and mountainous, gentle and rugged, forests and grasslands – supports numerous plant and animal species, representing Himalayan as well as the species thriving in the plains.  The most famous of them is the tiger and over the years Corbett has become synonymous with it.  Perennial rivers like the Ram Ganga and Kosi are the source of sustenance for the animals inhabiting Corbett and apart from them there are many rain fed rivulets that join these rivers during the rainy season as their tributaries. 

A Wild boar inside Corbett

Topography inside Corbett

A herd of Cheetals feeding inside Corbett

             From the main gate the open jeep takes you to the interior passing by a raging stream and I understood that the safari is to be stopped because during rains these rivulets cannot be passed by vehicles because of the torrents, as there are no bridges built across them.  The core area begins from an area deep inside, which is a fortified part with electric fences covering the periphery and the jeeps etc. assemble here and then start for the safari in batches.  There are a plethora of deer in the region of many varieties, sizes and hues and easily found roaming around foraging alongwith other kinds of mammals like Pigs, Monkeys etc.  However, the elusive tiger did not show up, although we could hear is low pitched growls from time to time  and despite sustained efforts of guide and the driver, we could not spot one and returned back a wee bit disappointed, but having had a blast otherwise, it was a trip to remember.