Visiting Ranikhet again after a long hiatus (Journey through a new route via Chimtakhal)

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Visiting Ranikhet again after a long hiatus

(Journey through a new route via Chimtakhal)

After a long journey - taking a short break

             I used to visit Ranikhet region to take care of my property every few months, whenever my engagements with work permitted.  However, during the previous year, due to the Corona pandemic, I could visit village Badankhet/Timila only in November, 2020 during the entire year.  So in order to keep my track record of the blog continuing in 2021, I had posted about this trip in January, 2021 and that was the only blog that I could post last year.  As I myself got afflicted with Corona in March end/early April, 2021 and the continued lockdowns and stringent measure in force, I could only visit my village again in end of October in 2021.  With the advent of newer Corona strain spreading its wings, I am posting this blog in January, 2022 to atleast keep the yearly tab filled albeit the fact that this time around I did go around a bit and will be posting a few more blogs in this series.

Distribution of rainfall during the disaster in October, 2021 (sourced from web)

Devastation caused by the rains during October, 2021 in Naintal (sourced from the internet)

            After the curbs imposed by Uttarakhand Government were eased to some extent, coupled with the fact that our family had got itself double vaccinated, I decided to visit my home in village Badankhet/Timila in end of October, 2021 as most of the official engagements had been rounded up for the time being.  We were getting ready for the journey, after being struck in our home for about a year in Delhi, we were very excited about the intended trip, sans our kids who had decided to stay put in Delhi because one of them was busy with his online job and the other with online classes, internet accessibility being a problem in the village home.  However, news started trickling in from the late evening of 18^th October, 2021 about incessant rains hitting the Kumaon region hard and by the next day, it had attained alarming proportions akin to 2013 calamity in Garhwal region i.e. when Kedarnath tragedy took place.  By the time the rains slowly relented by late evening of 20^th October, 2021 and a clearer picture emerged the next day i.e. 21^st October, 2021 it could be seen that Nainital district of Kumaon region was the worst affected (I have placed a graphical representation sourced from the internet) and most of the roads etc. in the Kumaon region were very badly affected.  All the tourists and trade routes had been devastated and it would take months to rebuild.  Only the State Highway route running from Ranikhet to Ramnagar/Corbett, across my village, remained the only source of road communication that linked the hills to the plains below.  We had become apprehensive about our trip that was to commence on the 25^th of October, 2021 because of the road conditions.  After talking to few locals over telephone we were informed that instead of the usual route running from Delhi-Ghaziabad-Moradabad-Ramnagar-Mohan-Totam-Bhatraujkhan-Ranikhet, we were required to divert our route a little by diverting towards Marchula just before Mohan and take to the roads towards Chimtakhal (before reaching Marchula) and travel through some small nondescript villages before reaching Bhatraujkhan via Machor.(here is the link to the news about the devastating floods - News report about the floods in Uttarakhand in October, 2021)

Passing through some pristine nature

Mobile signal towers now perched even in remote villages

             Not being familiar with this new route, although the road upto Ramnagar and a little way beyond it would be the same, but thereafter we were totally unaware of the road conditions etc., hence we started very early in the morning from Delhi.  Part of the journey has been covered by me in the video that is embedded below in the blog.  The road conditions were excellent, as travelling after a year, we found that most of the flyovers etc. that had been under construction during the journey during the previous year had been completed and we went past Ghaziabad in a jiffy.  Earlier, the Ghaziabad part was a real headache, as traffic, especially two-wheelers would travel on the opposite direction on the roads, thereby making the passage narrower and consequently leading to huge traffic jams.  But it had become a thing of the past, but a new issue awaited us on the Highway, it was compulsory use of ‘Fast tag’ to be affixed on the Car, for smooth passage across various toll plazas maintained by the NHAI on these roads.  After waiting for about half an hour, we were able to get the ‘Fast tag’ affixed and thereafter, the journey was smooth.  We reached Gajraula well in time for B’fast at Bikanerwala and proceeded ahead with our journey.  The road till Moradabad crossing of the National Highway is in prime shape, but thereafter it is a mess till one reaches Thakudwara and this portion consumed a lot to time.  Thereafter, we again got struck in a jam at Kashipur due to construction of a flyover in the township and apparently very little progress has been made, since my last visit a year ago.  However, after having gone past this irritant, we crossed Ramnagar smoothly and just before Mohan we turned left towards Marchula and this road leads towards Pauri Gharwal via Manila.  The road though narrower, passes through some really nice landscape, with very few vehicles, but is bereft of facilities like food joints etc.  The road takes a U-turn from Chimtakhal and passes through nondescript villages like Godiyon-Kankot-Toliyun-Khabli-Burjangarhi till it joins the earlier taken road just before Machor village.  This road is about 14-16 Kms. longer than the normal route through Mohan and Totam and hence it took us about an hour longer to reach our home than usual.  It was late in the evening that we reached home and after having an early dinner, we retired for the night.

A small village perched on a ridge

A typical village with a temple as seen on the road

Birds eye view of Ramganga River flowing by Bikhiyasen as seen from Harara village

             We returned back to Delhi on 31^st October, 2021 and by that time the road from Mohan side had been opened for traffic and hence we descended towards Ramnagar from this side.  The place where the road had been blocked near Totam has been covered in the video.  But due to the blockade of the Highway by the infamous Kiasan rally activists at Ghaziabad border, we had to take a torturous detour and were delayed at the last leg of our journey by more than two hours and thus concluded our one and only journey for the year 2021.

Here is a link to a video of the destination -

© S Roy Biswas

Beating the lockdown blues – a visit to my village Badankhet

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Beating the lockdown blues – a visit to my village Badankhet

(A Photo blog)

Panoramic view of Himalayan ranges seen from village Badankhet

As my daughter is to appear in the Board examination this year, there were no big plans for the year 2020 as such, regarding our summer vacations or winter vacations.  But still everyone looks forward for a short trips, as a break from the mundane and in order to replenish our souls and body.  I had last visited my home in Badankhet in Ranikhet Tehsil in October, 2019 for undertaking cleaning and maintenance works.  Thereafter, although we had made a very brief winter trip, but had gone to our home only for a day in December, 2019.  In the year 2020 also, we had planned to take a few days break in summers of 2020 at our home in Badankhet village.  But the COVID-19 Pandemic that resulted in total lockdown in the country being imposed from 24^th March, 2020 onwards, resulted in all the plans for the year going haywire.  Everyone was struck in their homes, with children having online classes and tuitions, ladies busy in collecting essentials through online portals and as the offices and businesses had started opening up gradually by June, but inter-state movement remained barred.

 

A male Khaleej pheasant in Badankhet village

A female Khaleej pheasant in Badankhet village

A close up of the Moon against an azure blue sky and pine tree top in foreground

Close-up of the perennial mountain spring in village Badankhet

In order to maintain my blog, I had stitched together a few blogs using my old journeys, albeit being presented in a different manner.  It was only in November, 2020 that we finally decided to take a break and head for our home in Badankhet village for a week.  Accordingly, after procuring the mandatory e-pass from the Uttarakhand Government portal, we commenced with our journey from Delhi in the first week of November, 2020.  The journey was a lot different this year, as it was sans any stoppage at any restaurant or eatery, which was one of the favorite parts of our usual journeys.  The road was almost free with very few vehicles, due to the lockdown and we went past the first bottle neck i.e. Gaziabad in a jiffy, as during this period of almost a year, a bye-pass over the entire crowded stretch had been constructed, which resulted in a smooth and hassle free ride.  Having covered a sizeable distance because of the good road conditions coupled with scant vehicles, after turning towards Moradabad for onwards journey to Ramnagar, we had our first stop at around 10.00 A.M for Breakfast.   Wife had prepared stuffed sandwiches and hot piping coffee in thermo-flasks, we had our belly full and thereafter we headed towards Ramnagar.  After having crossed Ramnagar, Corbett and Mohan region, we took a short break and as some stuffed parathas had been prepared for partaking in lunch and I had also purchased a Butane stove and cans for heating up the food, just before start of the journey, but everyone declined to skip lunch as we were still full.  We had some chips and biscuits only during this short stop over.  The journey upwards on towards the hills gradually begins after Mohan and finally the steep gradient begins from Kumheria onwards.  I and the driver took another break only for tea en-route and did not even stop at Bhatraujkhan for purchase of groceries etc., as my wife had carried everything from Delhi.  Thus, we reached Badankhet in record time and were home by 3.15 P.M.

 

Wild Himalayan Pear tree flowers in Badankhet village (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyrus_pashia )

Wild Mexican Levander flowers in Badankhet village

A rose flower - early morning shot - in village Badankhet

A bouquet of Chrysanthemums in my garden  in village Badankhet

Close up of Gazania flower growing in my garden in  village Badankhet

Some acorns growing on an Oak tree  in village Badankhet

As my caretaker had got the verandah and garage cleaned up, we just opened up the flat and within a few minutes had got the rooms swept, as there is hardly any dust etc. and quickly settled in.  We had the parathas heated and served with piping hot tea and thus, had a late lunch cum tea.  It was quite cold as the evening started setting in, so as already instructed, the caretaker had arranged for some fire wood to light up a fire and accordingly, he lit up two wood stoves and after the smoke stopped emanating, the wood coal alongwith the stove was moved inside and this heated up the rooms and it became quite comfortable inside the flat.  We had an early dinner that day, as the driver also was tired, having driven more than 350 Kms., almost at a stretch and we all retired for the night.  We woke up late the next morning, all refreshed and rejuvenated, away from the hustle & bustle of city life and its pollution, but had a vacation that was coupled with chirping birds, fresh air and refreshing view of the Himalyan peaks, although this year they were not as clearly visible due to dust, since there had been no rains for past quite some times.

View of Jakholi village as seen from village Badankhet

View of Mori village as seen from village Badankhet

View of another typical Kumaoni village as seen from  village Badankhet

As we drive back towards Delhi - some view of the hills

As we drive back towards Delhi - typical Kumaoni style collection of grass for use in winters by woman folk of the villages

As we drive back towards Delhi - we are about to enter Corbett region - just ahead of Kumheria 

The famous north Indian festival celebrated by the ladies i.e. Karva Chauth was also scheduled during this break taken by us and the fiery reddish moon rise on that day was a sight to behold, I have attempted to capture the essence, but the camera does not do the justice, as against what the eyes perceive and see.  The usual birds and flora was all around including some flowers blooming in my plot and I have incorporated the photographs to introduce the readers to the vivid scenes and scenery that defines my village home in Badankhet, Gram Panchayat Timila in Tarikhet Block in Ranikhet Tehsil and I leave you with visuals of the lifeline of the village i.e. the perennial mountain spring and the flora and fauna around.  I had kept this blog pending, so that I could start with my first blog in January, 2021 and hope to continue blogging thereafter, as time & happenings around take place.  Wish you all a fruitful and refreshing year ahead. 

The moon with reddish hue over Ranikhet hills on 'Karva Chauth' day 

Here is the link to videos of the journey and my village mountain spring –

 

Video of short drive through Corbett forest

Video of mountain spring in village Badankhet

© S Roy Biswas

 

An unplanned visit to Corbett

An unplanned visit to Corbett

A barking deer or Kakkar in Corbett

            As usual, this year too we headed to the hills for our short winter vacations.  However, unlike other years when we visited lesser known destinations, as the work regarding construction of my small apartment was in progress and I was required to deliver some goods for the said construction, we all headed for the destination and arrived at Chilyanaula, Ranikhet KMVN to spend a few nights.  After having visited the construction site and delivered the goods, we spent the day there having a picnic with food being cooked on temporary makeshift chulah and with local condiments, which added a special flavour to the simple ‘dal & chawal’ and we enjoyed a good day out.  However, we realized that we had nothing much to contribute to the construction process and would end up having a look around at the same destinations that we have visited many times in the past.  Therefore, after returning back to the Rest house in Chilyanaula, I spoke to the Manager in this regard and he checked the website and suggested that I could move over to Mohan near Corbett, but the difference in tariff would have to be paid by me, as the rooms were costlier at Mohan.  Hearing about the proximity with Corbett, I jumped at the proposition and early next morning we were headed for Mohan.

Sunrise at Chilyanaula

As we head out towards Corbett 

Beyond Bhatrauchkahn - Himalayan view point

Beyond Bhatrauchkahn - Himalayan view point - close up of Nanda Devi range with Trishul

             Mohan is a nondescript little destination situated on the Ranikhet to Corbett State Highway and it has a quaint and quite little Tourist Rest House run by KMVN.  To give you a general idea about it’s proximity with other destinations – Mohan is situated at a distance of 73 Kms. from Ranikhet and the break up of distances are as follows – Ranikhet to Bhatrauchkhan – 27 Kms. and Bhatraouchkhan to Mohan 46 Kms. – Mohan to Ramnagar – 10 Kms. Being situated hardly at a few kilometers distance from Corbett alongwith it’s jungle like ambience, is an added advantage for Mohan.  Having arrived at Mohan, I contacted the Manager seeking advice about visiting Corbett during the afternoon Safari.  I was informed that as the booking was required to done online, it was not possible to visit Corbett on arrival.  I had no idea about the same and therefore had no other option but to rake up my contacts, to at least visit Corbett during the ensuing day.  The idea worked and the contact sent a person who collected our personal details alongwith photocopy of my official Identity card and he also informed me that my entry was subject to any cancellation made.  My program was in much more jeopardy, as during the previous few days, it had been raining ‘cats & dogs’ in the region and the jungle safari had been temporarily halted, which had created additional queue.  Hoping for the best and mentally preparing for the worst, we decided not to waste the day idling and went ahead to visit the famed ‘Girija Devi temple’ nearby.

Bracket fungi on  a Banyan Tree - just as we enter Corbett

The TRH at Mohan

Panoramic view of Garijya temple

As the sun sets across the Kosi River bed

            The temple is dedicated to Girija Ardhangini and is myth-logically identified as being the daughter of the Himalayan mastiff known by the same name.   The temple is situated on a steep mound right in the middle of the Kosi river and during the lean periods the river bifurcates and creates an island around the temple, with the river flowing on either side of it.  However, during the monsoons the island also disappears at times, thereby making visit to this temple very difficult.  To ensure safe passage, the Government has now constructed a sturdy concrete bridge across the river to help the pilgrims visit the famed destination.  The temple is very small and only about 10-15 persons can be accommodated atop it at a time.  The temple has a small 4.5 feet high statute of Goddess Girija Devi accompanied by statues of Lord Ganesha and Goddess Saraswati placed alongside, as the presiding deity is also identified as Parvati of famed Lord Shiva Parvati combine.  It has gained tremendous following during recent years and consequently a small market has emerged along the bank of the river, wherein people are engaged in selling worship/Puja related articles alongwith a few sweetmeat shops sprinkled here & there.  The main pilgrimage to the temple takes place during the Basant Panchami.  We visited the temple and after offering prayers, on our way back we got down and headed onto the banks of Kosi River and enjoyed the sunset before returning back to the Rest House.

A kingfisher basking in morning sun inside Corbett
 

Langurs on tree tops inside Corbett

            As we were having a cup of Coffee in the cold winter evening at TRH Mohan, good news filtered in that there had been a few cancellations because of the inclement weather, however, the trip was subject to the weather conditions improving.  After we have had our dinner and were getting ready to retire for the night early, as next day we were to be picked up at 6.30 A.M for the trip scheduled from the Bijrani Gate entry, it started pouring again.  We tucked ourselves in, a wee bit dejected by the prospect of getting bad news in the morning.  Because of a hectic days schedule coupled with the quiet ambience of the place, we drifted into the land of dreams and were woken up in the morning after the loud sound of the alarm clock went off.  We quickly got dressed and as we were making some final adjustments, the intercom rang informing us of the arrival of the open safari jeep.  It was quite dark when we started and bitterly cold also as the jeep was totally open from all sides.  It took about 20-25 minutes ride to reach Bijrani Gate and after entering the premises, the operator asked for the money as well as the Identity card for making necessary entries.  By stroke of luck and a chance decision, I was inside Corbett for my first maiden journey to any Tiger Reserve.

Cheetal deer (Male) inside Corbett

A Sambhar hiding in the grass

            Corbett National Park has been mesmerizing its visitors with its diverse plethora of wildlife and breathtaking landscapes. It was established way back in 1936, when Corbett attained the distinction of being the first national park to be established in mainland Asia.  The geographical location of this National Park that stretches between the Himalayas and the terai region and the sheer number of streams, rivers and ridges that crisscross its terrain, enrich Corbett with a remarkable variety of landscapes. This vivid mosaic of habitats – wet and dry, plain and mountainous, gentle and rugged, forests and grasslands – supports numerous plant and animal species, representing Himalayan as well as the species thriving in the plains.  The most famous of them is the tiger and over the years Corbett has become synonymous with it.  Perennial rivers like the Ram Ganga and Kosi are the source of sustenance for the animals inhabiting Corbett and apart from them there are many rain fed rivulets that join these rivers during the rainy season as their tributaries. 

A Wild boar inside Corbett

Topography inside Corbett

A herd of Cheetals feeding inside Corbett

             From the main gate the open jeep takes you to the interior passing by a raging stream and I understood that the safari is to be stopped because during rains these rivulets cannot be passed by vehicles because of the torrents, as there are no bridges built across them.  The core area begins from an area deep inside, which is a fortified part with electric fences covering the periphery and the jeeps etc. assemble here and then start for the safari in batches.  There are a plethora of deer in the region of many varieties, sizes and hues and easily found roaming around foraging alongwith other kinds of mammals like Pigs, Monkeys etc.  However, the elusive tiger did not show up, although we could hear is low pitched growls from time to time  and despite sustained efforts of guide and the driver, we could not spot one and returned back a wee bit disappointed, but having had a blast otherwise, it was a trip to remember.