Sikkim - Visiting the North East (Part-IV West Sikkim)

West Sikkim – myth of the flying monastery

Lush green countryside

The main tourist attraction in West Sikkim is Pelling which is situated at a distance of 125 Kms. from Gangtok and 65 Kms. from Rabongla. Having started from Rabongla early in the morning, the road started descending steadily. After getting past many small hamlets & villages and negotiating some badly worn out roads, running parallel to the river Rongit on which a hydro-electric power plant has been constructed, we entered the West District from Legship. Legship is a small township famous for the Kirateshwar Mahadev Mandir which his a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. Mythologically, this place is associated with the Mahabharata and the legend goes that Arjun undertook penance on the spot and pleased with this Lord Shiva appeared before him adorned as a ‘Kirat’ (Hunter) and hence the name.

Views of the famous Kireteshwar Mahadev temple in Legship

Having got past Legship, the road again started to ascend and gradually we gained height with each passing curve. An hours’ drive brought us to Geyzling which is the Capital of West District and on the main road itself there is a big school called the St. Mary’s Convent School (which reminded me of my school days – school with same name but at Kasauli, Himachal Pradesh). After getting past Geyzling we reached Pelling, which is situated at an altitude of 6.800 feet above sea level. Situated on a ridge, this pristine hill station offers some picturesque views of the valleys below. Pelling is also touted to offer excellent view of Mount Kunchendzona, however, due to rains & clouds we could not get any such views. Pelling is the ideal station in West Sikkim to make ones base for visiting other smaller destinations around it like Yuksam (1 hour drive), Khecheopalri Lake, Uttarey, Bikshthang, Tashiding monastery etc., as it offers all kinds of services starting from boarding & lodging to transportation etc.

The most important spots in Sikkim is the Pemayangtse Monastery which is situated at an height of 2,085 m high ridge and can be reached by car after negotiating a very steep uphill climb. It houses a 17th century Buddhist Monastery, which houses excellent murals on the ancient shrine’s walls and ceiling and there is a wooden model of a heavenly palace as revealed in a dream to the founder of this monastery, Lhatsun Chempo. It is a three storied structure filled with wall painting, sculptures and antiques. On the third floor there is the ‘Zandog Phalri’ - an amazing seven tiered painted wooden model of the abode of Guru Rimpoche, complete with rainbows, angels and whole panoply of Buddhas and Bodhisattvas. The model was built single handedly by late Dugzin Rimpoche. The monastery houses 108 monks of pure Tibetan lineage who are chosen in a manner that they do not have any kind of physical deformities and thus, only they can enjoy the title ‘ta-sang’. The name of the monastery means the ‘Sublime lotus’ is the premier monastery of the Nyingmapa sect of the Tibetans/Bhutias and the locals believe that the Monastery made its appearance by flying down from the Heaven.

Some photographs of the famous Pemagyaste Monastery in West Sikkim near Pelling

Just after driving down from Pemayangtse one reaches Rabdentse, which was the second capital of the erstwhile kingdom of Sikkim after Yuksam. To reach the spot one has walk down a few hundred meters from the main road through a walkway which grazes past a tourist lodge situated right on the road side. The scenic view from the ruins edge is breathtaking and the locals say that it offers one of the best views of Mt. Kunchendzonga.

After descending back to Legship, one passes through one of the hot springs on way towards Naya Bazar called the ‘Reshi Hot Springs’ which is situated on banks of the Legship/Rangit river. The reach the Sulphur hot springs which boast of medicinal properties, one has to walk about 800 meters down from the main highway by crossing a pedestrian bridge over the river. The springs are also considered holy as one of the four holy caves, known as ‘Kadsong Phu’ meaning ‘cave of occult fairies’ is located here.

View of Reshi hot water springs

The Legship river

The road meanders along the Rangit River and having imbibed the natures’ bounty & vintage scenic feast all around we gradually wound our way back towards Siliguri. We had been forced to cut back our sojourn because of the strike call given by the Gorkhaland hoodlums which spoiled our well chalked out program, halting it midway. Having past Melli which is the last point or border between West Bengal & Sikkim, our driver Phurba stepped over gingerly over the bridge across river Teesta.

View of Rongit river - the valley across is Darjeeling (West Bengal)

I would like to pay a tribute to this humble soul who was an epitome of humanity, a true gentleman in letter & spirit. I had met Phurba Tamang in Gangtok and had been recommended by the hotel owner Sh. Pradeep Choudhury of Hotel Tenancy. Not only was this person attributed with a very pleasant & handsome look but was a very polite & humble soul. He took pains to ensure that we had a look at every nook & corner we visited with him with a pleasant personal touch. As the trouble for Gorkhaland in Darjeeling had already started brewing while we were at Gangtok, he encouraged us to stay on and assured us that he would make all efforts to ensure our passage upto Siliguri. Accordingly, when he dropped us at Rabongla and handed us over to another driver known to him as Lindup with the assurance that he would complete the rest of the itinerary with him and he would drop us off at Siliguri. However, this driver decided to play truant and due to worsening law & order situation informed us that he would not be able to drop us at Siliguri at any cost. Rattled by this breach to trust, I rang up Phurba at night and like a true ‘Knight in shining Armour’, Phurba Tamang was there at Rabongla early in the morning to pick us up the next morning in his taxi . Not only did he take us to Pelling & surrounding areas but ensured that we safely reached Siliguri township risking his own life for this endeavor. I pay my humble the heartfelt tribute to this gallant person from the core of my heart on my behalf as well as that of my family, who not only made the journey possible but memorable as well. Long live Phurba(s) of Sikkim!

Phurba Tamang with my kids

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Sikkim - Visiting the North East (Part-III South Sikkim)

South Sikkim – the land of big Buddha

A giant statute of Padmasambhava at Sandruptse

South Sikkim is the second largest districts of Sikkim after East Sikkim. The demography of the place reflects a predominantly Nepalese population followed by the Bhuitas. South Sikkim also boasts of some pristine undisturbed nature reserves. The Capital of South Sikkim is Namichi, meaning sky-high in local parlance, situated at a height of 5,500 feet. Since it is one of the first hills at a considerable height from the plains below, it holds a commanding view all around. The distance from Gangtok to Rabong or Rabongla (as it is called now) is about 75 Kms. and it takes about 2-3 hours time as per your schedule. We passed through some really picturesque country-side during this travel.

View of Hydel power plant across Teesta river - birds eye view

While traveling from Gangtok to Rabong or Rabongla (the local people explained that in their local speech, the word ‘la’ is used commonly, which means ‘yes’ and perhaps this connotation got linked to the original name and hence this misnomer), the road initially winds down to Rongpo township and after crossing over the Teesta river across the Rani pul, one enters the domain of South Sikkim District. The road thereafter starts its gradual ascent, passing through some lush green vintage forests & quaint little villages. Having passed the small market hamlet called Singthum, we reached Rabong, which again is a small hamlet, situated at a height of 7,000 feet. There are several hotels situated in the main market complex itself and many others spread across especially on the road leading towards Gaysling/Pelling (in West District). The weather at Rabong was pristine with crisp wind blowing and the surrounding views are enough to boost up the flagging spirits of any tiring soul.

A waterfall covering half of the hill side

View of the clouds moving ominously towards Rabong'la

One can visit many places after making Rabong as their base and the details of such places around Rabong or Rabongla are –

(i) Tendong Hill - Above Damthang overlooking Namchi is a small flat stretch of land at an altitude of 8530 ft. surrounded by lush green ancient forest which is popularly known as the Tendong Hill. Historically, this has been a place of recluse for Buddhist lamas who spend years in meditation admist the silent grandeur. Legend says that the Tendong Hill saved the Lepcha tribe from the ravages of deluge when the whole world was flooded - legend similar to Naoh's Ark of the Bible. Even today, the lepchas perform pujas to pay reverance to the Tendong Hill. It is said that the view from the top of the Tendong hill is something to be cherished and enjoyed as it spans across the plains of Bengal to the majestic heights of the Himalayas Ranges. Trek to Tendong from Damthang Bazar, is just about two hours of casual walk. However, due to rains and as a result of which dense overgrowth over the trekking path we could not make it to the top.

(ii) Temi Tea Garden - The one and only Tea estate existing in the State produces one of the top quality teas with a very strong flavour which is specific to it. The tea garden is spread out on a gentle hill slope originating from below the Tendong hill and provides a magnificent view of the valley below.

(iii) Meanam Hill -Meanam Hill towers is situated diametrically opposite to the Tendong Hill over looking the Rabongla bazar settlement. Situated at an altitude of 10,300 ft, the scenic view from this height is, stated to be unmatched in this part of Sikkim. It is said that on a clear sunny day, it is possible to see the plains of Bengal spanning across Kalimpong and Darjeeling hills in the South, right across to the Indo-China border towards the North. A short distance away is the legendary horn shaped ridged called Bhaley Dunga, a kind of rocky spur which juts out from the ridge top and remains suspended in the air above Yangang village. The trek to Meanam from Ravangla base takes about 4 hours and the 12 Kms. treks require assistance of local guides for trekking. From Meanam hill-top one has the option to take the gentle trek to Borong village or follow the more treacherous trails down to Yangyang village. However, due intense rainfall the availability of both guides coupled with treacherous climb and my small children dissuaded us from undertaking the treacherous climb.

(iv) Borong – Just below Meenam Hills is the small village or hamlet, facing the snow- capped mountains called Borong. A picturesque place with a beautiful landscape and magnificent view of valleys below is also known for its hot spring "Borong Tsa-Chu".

(v) Sandrupste – Sandrupste, which literally means ‘wish fulfilling well’ is situated 8 kms away from Rabongla where a statute of Guru Padmasambhava or Rinpoche which is 135 feet high has been installed. The Foundation stone for the site was laid by his Highness the 14th Dalai Lama. It is said that it is the highest statute of Guru Padmasambhava in the World and on a clear day can be viewed from as far as Darjeeling and is also said to be visible from most parts of Sikkim as well. However, when we visited the statute, it was under maintenance and was being re-painted.

(vi) Kewzing – Just past Sandrupste is a small market place called Kewzing on road leading to Pelling/West Sikkim. The place is more famous for its quaint old monastery known as the Bonn Monastery, which is only one of its kind in Sikkim, belonging to the Nyingmapa sect of Buddhism.

(vii) Ralong Monastery – This Monastery is the most significant and oldest monasteries of Sikkim which was built by the fourth Chogyal on his successful completion of pilgrimage to Tibet. It is situated 13 Kms. from Rabongla and looks similar to the Rumtek Monastery in its layout.

Watch the video of this destination below -