Ranikhet – when I missed my train

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Ranikhet – when I missed my train

(with Binsar Mahadev Mela, Golf Ground & Rani jheel )

Forest area around Binsar Mahadev temple - comprising of Deodars & Pines

            There are a plethora of blogs on my link describing the  various facets of Ranikhet, as I keep visiting the destination to oversee the maintenance of my pad in an adjacent village called Badankhet/Timila.  However, this time around, after quite a long time due to the Covid-19 pandemic, I made a summer visit to the destination, as per my past practice of t visiting my village home, for atleast twice a year, for regular upkeep of my home there.  Since the children were busy with their College, Office etc., this time around I travelled alone and on my invitation one of my relatives also agreed to accompany me for this visit.  Being only two of us, I decided to travel by train, unlike the past when I usually visited using my vehicle, as the economics of cost of petrol versus cost of train ticket, weighed towards the later, being only two of us travelling this time around.  Due to the heavy rush in the hills this year, I decided to travel on a Monday and return on Friday, so that I could avoid the tourist rush that usually happens on weekends being holidays for school children, in the month of June, 2022.

Panoramic view of Binsar Mahadev temple

             The Kathgodam Shatabdi leaves from New Delhi station at 6.20 A.M and I decided to book taxi through OLA, but the driver failed to respond despite ringing him many times over, so I had to book another one and thus, got a bit delayed from my planned time of departure.  However, as I had already scheduled some buffer time, we reached the station well in time.  The train departed at the right time, but got delayed at the fag end of the journey, for reasons best known to the Railways, the train was kept waiting for a long unscheduled stop at Rudrapur.  Having reached Kathgodam, I spoke to some Taxi drivers at the station premises, for dropping us at our home near Ranikhet and after some negotiation, one of the drivers agreed to drop us for Rs.2500/-.  However, as soon as we reached near his cab, he informed that he will charge an additional Rs.500/-, as the usual rate for dropping from Ranikhet, as the price he had quoted was for dropping us at Ranikhet market.  I told him that the rate already stood negotiated and as we were also not required to go till Ranikhet, what was the reason for charging this additional sum.  As he appeared to be adamant, I walked off from the Railway taxi stand, to one outside the station.  I got a taxi for Rs.2,500/- and as we were about to board, the earlier negotiated taxi driver came over and started arguing.  I gave him a tongue lashing and informed him that he should have realized that I was not a tourist, but someone who comes here regularly, as I was not travelling to any known tourist destination and he could not take me for a ride, further if required, I would call the Police.  On hearing this he reluctantly withdrew and we commenced with our onward journey at around 12.45 P.M. from Kathgodam.

Selling cotton candy puffs in the fair/mela at Binsar Mahadev temple complex

            As the road via Bhimtal was under repair at the Ranibagh bridge, the driver informed us that there would be a huge traffic jam and hence this time around and hence we headed through Jeolikote-Bhowali route.  The driver was a person with a pleasing personality and just after crossing Kathgodam, an old gentlemen signaled the driver to stop, thinking it was ferrying local residents.  He offered him Rs.50/- for journey till Jeolikote, but the driver refused, finding him to be an old person, on my insistence he allowed him to board and dropped him at Jeolikote.  Just after passing by Jeolikote, we stopped to have some local charcoal baked Maize, although the ‘chutni’ made of local freshly ground Mint leaves, Coriander leaves, Spring onions, Garlic and some local spices tasted as heavenly as always, however, the maize itself was a bit dry, due to lack of rains in region during the summers.  We again made a short halt just after after passing by Kainchi dham and purchased some local Plums, Apricots and Peaches, although their season was almost over, however, we enjoyed the fresh and ripe fruits.  Thereafter, I took a break at the KMVN run Highway Inn at Khairna and some of the old employees recognized me being a regular visitor in the past and we partook a quick lunch comprising of Rice, mixed vegetable and Dal (Lentils) with some fresh Cucumber & Onion salad and the meal was as sumptuous as ever.  Finally, we reached my home at around 4.15 P.M and I dialled for my caretaker, who had already arranged for a person to clean up the house.  My relative being a good cook himself, we cooked a Bengali quick and wholesome meal called “Khichudi’, which is a mixture of Rice, Dal with vegetables cooked together with some spices and had it with Omelets.  Thereafter, we retired for the night and had a very peaceful sleep in the hills, albeit it was a bit hot this time around and so no heavy blankets were required.

Taking rest after a long trek from the villages around

Selling all types of fried snacks and sweetmeat at the local fair/mela at Binsar Mhadev temple complex

            After waking up the next morning, we had some morning tea and simple bread & butter with some tea/milk etc. and after that I with the help of the local water supply person filled the overhead water tanks, by running the newly installed water pump and it appears that from now onwards with the water supply being provided to individual homes, my struggle for calling for tanker to fill up the water tanks, would be a thing of the past. Thereafter, having taken bath and performed the puja, we headed for Binsar Mahadev temple.  During the month of June, usually during the very first week itself, there is a festival attended alongwith with a big ‘Mela’ (Fair) organized in the temple complex and it is visited by all and sundry from all adjoining villages from near and far.  There are a quite a few blogs of mine as well on the internet that has mentioned in details about this destination, thus, for the sake of brevity I would refrain from repeating about the religious & mythological importance of this destination.  However, as no mela had been held due to Covid-19 pandemic in 2020 & 2021, this year around it was conducted in a grander scale and also over an extended period of almost two weeks.  Since it was a Tuesday, as well the last day of the fair/mela, I took the opportunity to visit the temple and have darshan of Lord Hanuman inside the temple complex, as per my routine on Tuesdays.  It was also a chance to show my relative this important tourist destination of the Ranikhet region.  After having visited the temple and the mela, we headed towards Tarikhet to purchase some hardware goods required for maintenance of the home.  Thereafter, we had some local ‘Samosas’ (A kind of crisp fried wrap) with a plate of ‘Cholas’(Spicy cooked Bengal grams) and polished it off with some ‘jalebis’ (A kind of sweetmeat) and returned back home and got the maintenance work completed.  Had some tea and snacks in the evening and later had dinner at night and thus ended our second day of the sojourn.

Here is a link to a short video of the destination -

Baba Hairakhan temple -

An old photograph of the Baba Hairakhan temple with my friends on foreground

            Since my relative had not seen Ranikhet, especially all the tourist spots, I had arranged for a trip for the next day and we started for the journey at around 10.30 A.M and I had arranged for the Cab from my village itself, wherein one of the residents owns several of them.  Accordingly, we first visited Baba Hairakhan temple in Chilyanaula just near Ranikhet.  Since there is an older blog available – those interested to know about this destination may click on the link - https://ghummakar-biswas.blogspot.com/2013/01/chilyanaula-gallery-of-himalayan-vistas.html - where description of Baba Haira Khan temple is also provided.  Therefrom we headed towards the Ranikhet Market and then onwards to the Golf Grounds in Ranikhet.

Here is a link to a short video of the destination -

Golf Grounds Ranikhet –

Panoramic view of Golf course in Upat, Ranikhet

            This Golf course, popularly known as Golf Ground by the locals, is situated at a place called Upat on the Ranikhet-Almora State Highway, while driving towards Majhkhali from Ranikhet, at a distance of about 5 Kms. from Ranikhet, just a little further ahead from Ghingarikhal.  This Nine-hole Golf course is managed by the armed forces stationed in Ranikhet i.e. the Kumaon Regiment and the Naga Regiments and is one the highest elevation Golf Courses in the world, perched at over 1700 meters or around 6000 feet above MSL (Mean Sea Level).  During the Covid-19 Pandemic this Golf Course had been closed for Public access, but now it has been opened for public viewing for the whole day on Tuesdays and from 11.00 A.M to 1.00 P.M on all other days.  However, only the south side of the Golf course will be accessible to the tourists.  The Golf course is well manicured with lush green undulating meadows of green grass with the Himalayan ranges in its back drop that offers a spectacular view for both tourists as well as those enjoying a game of Golf there.

Here is a link to a short video of the destination –

 

Rani Jheel –

Panoramic view of Rani Jheel

            From Golf course, we retraced our route back to Ranikhet and after passing by Kalika, Somnath grounds etc., we took a small detour just across the Church in Ranikhet to head for Rani Jheel.  Although this lake was a rain water harvesting artificial water body and has been in Ranikhet since long, having been managed by the Cantonment Board of Ranikhet.  However, of late various tourism related activities have been introduced in this lake and it has become a tourist attraction of sorts.  Situated at a distance of about 2.5 Kms. from the Ranikhet market, it is small water body that can be approached through a vehicle or by trekking.  Although it is quite small, but for a small place like Ranikhet, it offers boating facilities at approximately Rs.75/- per person, it has also a zorbing facility and a small flying fox or zip line facility that are moderately priced and coupled with this there are quite a few colorful fishes that constantly swim in this water, hence the tourists and the locals come and enjoy at the location for short durations.  With the inflow of the tourists, now a days there are several juice counters as well as fast food stalls that have come up on the road,  just across the entry gate to the this small lake.  Although it is nothing spectacular like Naintal or Bhimtal, but definitely a fun place for kids and their parents to enjoy as a passing by destination.

Here is a link to a short video of the destination -

 

Jhula Devi temple & Chaubatia Garden –

A view of the famed Jhula Devi temple

            From Ranijheel we headed forward towards the Jhula Devi temple and therefrom to Chaubatia Gardens.  Whereas, the temple is one of the most famous temples in Ranikhet region and has a very huge following amongst the locals.  The Chaubatia Gardens is in Cantonment area and perched at almost 7,500 feet MSL and home to the famous Chaubatia variety of Apple and is now maintained by the Horticulture department.  I have been to these destinations on many occasions and hence these places find mention in many blogs of mine.  In case one wants to check about the details of the destination, you can click on the link provided in one of the paragraphs above.

View of the Chaubatia garden in Ranikhet

             Thereafter, we headed for the Kumaon Regimental Center Museum and since no photography is allowed inside and only war related artefacts and memorials are on display to see, although interesting, but without a visual reference it is difficult to weave a blog on the subject and hence am skipping it.  Having visited all the tourists destinations of Ranikhet, it was late afternoon and we were famished and hence had lunch in a local restaurant and after having some tea enroute at Tarikhet, where I got my tape-recorder repaired, reached home late in the evening and thus ended our day three of the visit to Ranikhet.

Kumaon Regimental Centre Museum in Ranikhet

             The next day had been earmarked for refilling of the water tanks, but as there was no supply due to poor voltage, the prime target for the day eluded us and we spent the day doing some odd jobs around and carrying out some house cleaning errands like using the vacuum cleaner etc., as we had to proceed back to Delhi the next morning.  Looking at the precarious situation of availability of Cabs during my journey from Kathgodam to Ranikhet/Timila, I had booked the same taxi driver at same rate to drop us at Kathgodam.  I had called him by 10.00 A.M and also confirmed over telephone about his having commenced journey to pick us up.  However, as is the norm of the cab drivers, instead of pre-decided time of pick up between 10.00 to 10.30 A.M, the fellow reached at around 11.00 A.M and after completing the usual chores of putting off the electricity, water etc. and closing all the doors and windows, we commenced our journey at around 11.20 A.M and the scheduled departure of the train was 3.10 P.M.  On the way we purchased some vegetables and tried to pick up some local fruits, but nothing was available.  However, just before reaching Kainchi Dham, due to haphazard parking of vehicles by the tourist, a huge jam had built up and it took 1.30 hours to get past the jam and by this time we had got considerably delayed.  Despite best efforts, the Cab driver, whose car brakes too had got overheated due to oncoming traffic, we missed the train by a whisker and the driver even tried to drive upto Haldwani railway station but the train had already left and thus I missed a train for the first time in my lifetime.  Thereafter, as the AC busses were scheduled to leave Haldwani for Delhi only late in the night, I took a cab (returning back to Delhi) that charged only for one way and reached back Delhi albeit late and thus, ended our short but enjoyable summer sojourn to the hills of Uttarakahnd.

© S Roy Biswas

 

Ranikhet, ‘The Meadow of the Queen’ revisited

Ranikhet, ‘The Meadow of the Queen’ revisited

View of Nanda Devi range from Ranikhet

A nature lover's paradise, Ranikhet offers wonderful views of the Western Himalayan ranges.  Ranikhet also presents a stunning view of the reverend Nanda Devi. The scented mountain breeze, fresh and pure, the singing birds, the panoramic view of Himalayas accompanied with the sight, sound and smell, leaves the onlooker spell bound & mesmerized.  Ranikhet is situated in the northern part of the state of Uttaranchal, in the northern region of India. It is situated in the Kumaon hills and is located at an altitude of 1829 m above sea level.  Ranikhet is about 59 kms. from Nainital and about 50 kms. from Almora.  Ranikhet hills offer the tourists a panoramic view of the mighty Himalayan peaks.  The environs of Ranikhet are sylvan, peaceful and attractive. Ranikhet is a cantonment town and is known for its ancient temples. An unusual name, a quaint legend and the sheer beauty of its environs make this Kumaon hill station a wonderful holiday resort.   According to the popular belief this place had won the heart of Rani Padmini, queen of Raja Sudhardev. She chose this scenic place to be her adobe and since then it has come to be known as Ranikhet, whose literal translation means ‘Queens Field/Meadows’.

View of the Ranikhet township

View of Chilyanaula from Ranikhet

Ranikhet, is known for its pristine beauty. The hill station has been a tourist’s haunt for those who want to spend a vacation in lap of nature, far from the maddening crowd of cities. The British troops selected it as their cantonment in 1869 and it also became a summer resort of the British officers.  The cantonment is spread across two ridges, the first, called the Ranikhet ridge, is situated at an elevation of 5,983 ft (1,824 m) and the second, the Chaubattia ridge, is at an elevation of 6,942 ft (2,116 m).  On the opposite spur of this ridge is situated that township of Chilyanaula.  There are a number of tourist attractions in Ranikhet that tourists can visit, both in Ranikhet and outside.

Close up of Nanda Devi from Ranikhet

View of Trishul from Ranikhet

 Some of the major tourist spots within the township are as -

Chaubatia Gardens: It is situated 10kms. from Ranikhet, within the precincts of the military establishments and entry is restricted and one has to make appropriate entry before visiting the spot.  It is renowned for apple orchards. Apart from fruit orchard, one can also walk through a quaint forest trail, assisted by a guide for Rs.100/- and in case both garden and forest trail the rates are Rs.200/- for the guides.   One can also buy fresh juices and honey from Chaubatia Gardens. Picturesque views of the snow capped peaks of the mighty Himalayan range can be seen from Chaubatia Gardens.

View of Himalayan peaks from Chaubatia gardens

Extreme close up of Nanda Devi ranges from Chaubatia gardens

View of Hathi Ghoda peaks from Chaubatia gardens

View of the Panchachuli peaks from Chaubatia gardens

 Jhula (Jhoola) Devi temple

Front facade of Jhoola Devi temple

Jhula Devi temple is an ancient 8th century temple located in a secluded and serene environment near Ranikhet. The main deity of this temple is Goddess Durga and it is believed that Jhula Devi blesses the devotees for fulfilling their wishes. As per the local folklore, the people of the valley were threatened by the tigers & leopards of the region and on consecration of this temple, they & their livestock were spared from the menace.  The spectacular feature of this temple is the majestic cluster of beautifully made bells. The clangs of these bells are heard very long distance. The temple surroundings are beautiful and panoramic view of the distant mountains and peaks is enchanting scenery from here. Many devotees throng to this temple to offer their prayers. A temple dedicated to Lord Ram located nearby is an added attraction.

The presiding deity of Jhula Devi temple

 9-hole golf course is one of the prime attractions of Ranikhet. It is second largest golf course in India. The green meadow of the golf course at such high altitude is simply awesome. Besides, the golf club also offers membership plans for outsiders as well, despite being a military run establishment.

Panoramic view of the golf course in Ranikhet

Bhulla tal is a man made dam about 3 Kms. downhill trek from Chaubatia/Jhoola Devi temple site, but I did not visit it as I was not much impressed with the small lake of same name in Lansdowne.  This lake is man-made and source of water supply to the cantonment.  On way to Majhkhali is the Kali temple stated to be about 5000 years old, but the same being on a hill top, as we were totally drained out after visiting Dunagiri temple and having mounted 400 stairs, we had skipped this destination too.  The sunrise/sunset points either in the Sadar Market area or just below the Kumaon Regimental Centre roads are also worth a visit because of the unparalleled view of the Himalayan ranges. There are other military museums in the township, but I was not much interested in the same and thus, skipped visiting them.

Destinations around Ranikhet

Majhkhali, 

View of the Himalayan ranges from Majhkhali

is an enchanting destination for its imposing natural beauty and  is located on the Ranikhet - Almora road.  This destination is known for its awesome and tempting celestial view of the Himalayan ranges. The great view of inspiring majestic Sonya peaks of the Himalayan ranges is an unforgettable experience for any visitor. This place is abundantly blessed with the nature’s gifts comprising of a undulating hilly terrains, calm valleys, cool climate and captivating surroundings. It is a quiet place to spend the weekends and evenings.

Tarikhet

Tarikhet is located at a distance of 8 Kms. from Ranikhet is well known for its Gandhi Kuti, and the temple of Golu Devta is venerated in the Kumaon region. Gandhiji spent some time here in 1920’s and was enchanted by this place and is now famous for the Gandhi Kuti and the temple of Golu Devta, on the main road itself.

Binsar Mahadev

The facade of Binsar Mahadev temple - Swarg Ashram

A fox suddenly appeared from the Binsar forest reserve

It is located at a distance of 19 Kms. from from Ranikhet, on the way to Ramnagar amidst dense Pine and Deodar forests. The Shiva Temples of Binsar Mahadev are a unique place for Yoga and spiritual meditation in solitude. Located at an altitude of 2480 mtrs, Binsar Mahadev is an important temple of the region. It is also important for its architectural significance as well. The temple consists idols of Ganesh, Har Gauri and Maheshmardini. The idol of Maheshmardini is engraved with texts in 'Nagiri lipi' (an ancient form of scripture), which indicates the link of temple back to ninth century. The temple was built by King Pithu in memory of his father Bindu is also called Bindeshwar temple. An important fair is held here every year on the occasion of Baikunth chaturdashi in the month of June.

Here are the video links for the destinations -

(1) Ranikhet -

(2)Majhkhali -

(3) Binsar Mahadev -