Khajuraho - the famed Indian destination

Khajuraho - temples & erotica

Much has been written about and discussed regarding this tourist spot, which is not only one of the most renowned but also most visited tourist site in India andlies inthe west India sector. My visit is linked to my visit to Jabalpur almost more than a decade ago. After sight seening in & around in Jabalpur (chronicled in my earlier blog), I took the opportunity to visit Khajuraho as well. I travelled from Jabalpur to Maihar by train, a distance of131 Kms. from Jabalpur. Maihar is a small place in Satna District of Madhya Pradesh but is well known in the classical music circles because it is related to late Ustad Allaudin Khan and his portrait is integral part of the main railway platform there. In addition to this Maihar is also known for the famous Sharda Devi temple which is situated at a distance of 5 Kms. from city centre atop a hill. This hill top temple has great significance amongst the local Hindus and can be reached a flight of stairs numbering 1063. An annual festival is also held in this place which attracts pilgrims from all over India who converge here to pay their homage to the presiding diety.

Khajuraho is very well connected by Air & road. However, the nearest railheads are Manhoba(64 Kms.), Harpalpur (94 Kms.), Jhansi (175 Kms.) & Satna (117 Kms.). Passing through Maihar, I reached Satna and boarded the local Madhya Pradesh Road Transport Corporation bus for Khajuraho. Being peak summer, in the month of May, the entrie road stretch was scorching coupled with constant exposure to swirling dust the journey was just short of harrowing. The bus would often stop at small nodescript places where no aerated beverages or bottled water was available. In order to quench the thirst I purchased some Oranges, which the shopkeeped offered in Kilograms as against per piece or dozen system to which I was akin to. However, I did not rue my decision to buy the oranges, as they stood by me for the entire journey, quenching my thirst as well as an impediment to my nauseating feeling in the rickety bus on a equaly potholed road. On the way we passed by Panna which is famous for its diamond mines and some of the renowned sparkling stones have been resourced from these mines.

I reached Khajuraho at around 3.00 in the evening and wasfamished. The rickshaw wallah took to me to hotel Rahil and I booked my accommodation in the mens dormitory. I was the single soul occupying the room having 16 beds. During my two nights stay I choose the bed I liked best, both as per the positioning of the fan as well as bedisde window. There were only two persons occupying the hotel premises, the other being an elderly Gujrati gentlemen who had checked into one of the AC rooms. We used to order food to our liking and lived in the hotel in royal style for a couple of days.

Due to the oppressive summer heat we undertook our sujourn during early mornings and late evenings. Much has been written about the technical details of temples existing in Khajurahoand I would not like to burden my readers with same monotony again. However, briefly Khajurahao was the capital of the Chandela Rajputs who ruled over this region between 10th to 12th century AD. The temple complex spread over an area of 21 sq. kms. was built between 950-1050 AD and consisted of 80 temple complexs of which only 21 survive as on date. The temples have been grouped into three divisions which are called the Wester, Eastern & Southern groups. These temples are dedicated mainly to the Jain tirthankars and the Hindu trilogy of Bramha, Vishnu & Mahesh although some temples are also dedicated to Mother godess Devi Jagadambi.

Lord Mahavir

Lord Vishnu

Lord Bramha

The most outstanding temple which is imposing because the hieght of its sprire is theKandariya Mahadev Temple whose spire stands 116 feet from ground. It is in the Western group of temples. The temples in Khajuraho adhere strictly to the north Indian Shikhar style of architecture and follow the Panchayatna layout i.e. One central complex with four similar temples of smaller dimensions at four corners.

Profile view of Kandariya Mahadev Temple

Another temple which is similar in plan & layout to the Kandariya temple is the Vishwanath temple wherein the northern gates are flanked by lions & southern by Elephants leading to the main temple and inside the complex is the three headed figure of Bramha. Just opposite the shrine gate is the 6ft high Nandi bull.

Nandi Bull

Guarding Lions

Temple sanctum sanctorum doorway architecture

I would not like todeprive any of my readers of the pleasure of viewing the famous Kamasutra poses by not incorporating the pictures, for which the Khajuraho temples are famous for i.e.tantric sexual poses.

Famous Kamasutra pose

Famous Kamasutra pose-2

P.S - These photographs are almost 17 years old now and some sides have got discoloured. Hope the viewers will pardon the same as the main frame is not damaged.

Jabalpur & around

Jabalpur - on the banks of Narmada

I had visited Jabalpur for the first time in 1982, having been selected for the B.Tech(Agri.) course at Jwaharlal Nehru Krishi Vishwavidyalaya (JNKVV for short). However, my father who had accompanied me, somehow was not conducive to the idea of students preparing their own food, as the hostel mess was in a mess, the contractor having run away with the students money without providing for the meals. However, I had liked the ambiance of the place and therefore, when I got an opportunity to visit my younger brother studying in the Regional Engineering College, Iimmediately grabbed the opportunity with both hands and visited the place again in 1990.

Jabalpur, is situated in Madhya Pradesh and is in the Mahakoshal region. The place is surrounded by small hillocks all around with deep gorges creating many small lakes all around.Jabalpur is linked to all major cities of India by train and also by limited Air services. Jabalpur is on the Itarsi sector of Western railswaysand about 961 odd Kms. from Delhi by train, there are several trains running from the Hazrat Nizzamuddin station and journey time varies from 20 odd hours onwards. The place is also well connected by road and the National Highway Number 7 passes though it. The place is quite hot during the summers, but the winters are mild and the best season to visit is between October to March/April.

Historically speaking, the emergence of the name of the city of Jabalpur has conflicting versions. Whereas, one version is that since Sage Jabali is said to have performed penance on banks of river Narmada here, the place derived its name from him. The other version is that this place was an important transit & business centre of foreign Arabs and even today many a graves with tombstones dedicated to them can befound in the local graveyards andthe name was derived from the Arabic word Jabal which means rocks. Jabalpur was ruled by the Tripuri rulers between the 9th to 12th Centruy AD and one of the most significant pieces of architecture of this period is the Chausatyogini temple dedicated to Goddess Durga and boast of Kaluchari style. The regin thereafter got partly transferred to subjugation of Mughals, followed by the Marathas, who in turn turned it under the rulers of Nagpur and remined under their control till it was taken over by the British. During the British rule, Jabalpur became a major cantonment and still retains the status with many important military installations existing on date.

Sunset as viewed from Gunhill at Jabalpur

Narmada flows at a little distance away from the main city of Jabalpur. The topography of the area around, with hillocks and deep gorges, has forced Narmada to flow through a deep gorge. As explained above, due to presence of such hillocks, Narmada at one point takes a deep plunge downwards. Due to the narrowing down of the river bed, coupled with the fact that such concentrated volume of river water falls down from a higher elevation, causes immense noise as well as spill over of the water thus creating a misty ambiance. This place has been appropriately names as the Dhuandhar falls (Dhuandhar in hindi means misty/smoky). This place is approximately 23 Kms from the Jabalpur city and many public transport facilities are available both on shared as well as indiviudal rented basis from all important locations, be it the Railway station or the city centre or tregadha mor etc.

Dhuandhar falls panoramic view

Dhuandhar falls closeup

One can traverse a bit upstream and the water of Narmada flowing down towards the Dhuandhar falls is a real treat to watch. There are a lot of vendors here who sell all kinds of soapstone artifacts & trikletsaround this spot. A little before the Dhuandhar falls is the gorgeous Marble rocks gorge through which the Narmada flows. This spot has been chosen for shooting of many a Hindi movies. The place from where one can launch oneself for this stupendous journey is called 'Bedaghat'. This spot is about 21 Kms. from the Jabalpur City centre.

In the boat at Bedaghat

The famed marble rocks of Bedaghat

Another view of the marble rocks

Close up of the Marble rocks

Panoramic view of the gorge at Bedaghat - Narmada river

N.B - Viewers will have to pardon me for the quality of photos as they are now almost 17 years old and I was using a fixed focus camera then (Yaschica MF-II motor model). But it will give you a fair image of the place.