Visiting Kerala – Thekaddy the land of wildlife reserve

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Visiting Kerala – Thekaddy the land of wildlife reserve

Rubber plantations on way to Thekaddy - one of main cash crop in Perityar region

            Having started the Kerala journey from Trivandrum and having visited the areas in and around it (as narrated in my previous blog), we headed towards Thekaddy from Varkala early in the morning after partaking breakfast at Varkala beach head.  The distance from Varkala to Thekaddy is about 180 Kms. and takes about 3 hours’ time to traverse the distance.  The road journey was from Varkala to Menambalam and then onto Kottarakkara  wherefrom the road joins the main Highway, therefrom the highway runs through – Kulakkada – Anandapally – Kaipattor – Makkamkunnu – Parthanamthitta – Mannarkulanji – Uthimoodu –Chthomkara – Makkaphuza – Karinkallumoozhy – Mundakayam – Kuttikkanam from here the road bifurcates towards the famed pilgrimage destination of Sabrimala and thereafter one passes through – Azhutha – Pambnar –- Periyar – Attappallam and finally reach Thekkady.  We reached Thekkady at about lunch time and had lunch at a local restaurant near Thekkady bus stand, the food was good and satisfying.  Thereafter, we headed towards the town center where our hotel was situated, but before going directly to the hotel, the driver suggested that we purchase tickets for the Kathakali performance for the evening and also for the trip to Periyar National Park the next day morning.

Detailed map of Periyar district - sourced from the internet

On our way we found locals selling Pineapples - tasty and farm fresh

Tea plantations in Periyar

One of the old tea estates in Periyar

            We heeded to his advice and headed straight to the Kadathanadan Kalari & Navarasa Kalari Centre (Website - https://periyartourism.org/home) that houses all the shows as well as the ticket counter for the Periyar Wild life sanctuary is also situated within its precincts.  I was not interest in the Kalaripat show, so purchased tickets for the Kathakali show, scheduled for 6.00 P.M the same evening.  However, when I enquired about the tickets for the Periyar Wild life sanctuary, they had been sold out and since I had only till next day afternoon, before proceeding for Munnar, I decided to book a jeep safari for going around the periphery i.e. Sathram area of the sanctuary periphery for Rs.3500/-, as I did not want to miss out a firsthand look at the topography of the sanctuary, having come so far.  This jeep safari of sorts was thus, scheduled for early next morning at 6.00 A.M.  Thereafter, we headed back to the hotel that was only a stone’s throw away from the Centre for checking in for the day.  However, the booking at Hotel Periyar that had been done online through ‘Booking.com’ was only a small establishment and the owner stated that rooms were not available and suggested that he shifts us to his other nearby hotel across the road known as ‘Periyar birds’, as I had no other option and the other hotel also being newly constructed with appropriate facilities, I agreed to check in there.  Later I received an e-mail and call from the booking site, as to why I had not stayed at originally booked Hotel Periyar, I explained them the reason.  Probably, this ploy was being used by the Hotel owners, so as to avoid payment of commission to the booking portal and at same time using the facility to get guests.

Kadathanadan Kalari & Navarasa Kalari Centre

            After checking in, as we were tired we rested for the afternoon and in the evening after having a cup to tea/coffee, we sauntered across to the Kadathanadan Kalari & Navarasa Kalari Centre for the Kathakali show.  Kathakali is the classical dance form of Kerala and can literally be translated as a “story play” from its Malayalam word. This form of dance drama is used to tell stories from the Indian epics and interestingly, this dance style is a blend of different form of fine arts like literature, music, painting, acting and dance. It is not simply a dance-drama but an act of devotion featuring the universal struggle between good and evil.  Traditionally a Kathakali artist is trained in an enclosure called ‘Kalari’, which is 21 feet by 42 feet. The entrance of this podium faces the east. In the south-west corner is a seven-tiered platform called the "poothara", which houses the guardian deity of the kalari. The makeup is done by trained persons on the artists is very time consuming and elaborate. The materials that comprise the makeup is all locally available products obtained from natural sources. The white is made from rice flour; the red is made from Vermilion. The black is made from soot. The colors are not merely decoration, but are also a means for portraying characters of the dance drama. For example, red on the feet is used to symbolize the evil character and evil intent. Each character is instantly recognizable by their characteristic makeup and costume.  The extraordinary costumes and make-up serve is used to highten the perception of the audience by placing the artists above the level of mere mortals, so that they may transport the audience to a world of make believe places.  However, of late some of the traditional materials that were used earlier for costumes, make-up etc. have been replaced with modern fabrications like plastic gunny bags to be placed underneath dresses to make them appear fluffy or piece of painted thermacol as face decoration, have been incorporated to shorten this time period for make-up etc.

Modern plastic bags being used to dress up the artist as a quick measure

            Kathakali is one of the oldest theatre forms in the world. The colors used in the make-up determine and display the role/position of the character in the Kathakali performance. The faces of noble male characters, such as virtuous kings, the divine heroes Rama, etc., are predominantly green. Characters of high birth who have an evil streak, such as the demon king Ravana, are allotted a similar green make-up, slashed with red color, there are three red marks on the cheeks. Extremely angry or excessively evil characters wear predominantly red make-up and a flowing red beard. Forest dwellers such as hunters are represented with a predominantly black make-up base. Women and ascetics have lustrous, yellowish faces.

The Kathakali artist showing hand and eye gestures

The interactive skit with audience to display use of hand & eye gestures

The technique of Kathakali includes a highly developed language of hand and eye gestures, through which the artist is able to artistically convey whole sentences and stories. The body movements and footwork are very rigorous. To attain the high degree of flexibility and muscle control required for this art, a Kathakali dancer undergoes a strenuous course of training, and special periods of body massage.  There are 24 Basic Mudras (hand gestures) in the "Hasthalakshana Deepika", the book of hand gestures, which Kathakali is followed. There are 'Asamyutha Mudras' (that is shown using single hand) and 'Samyutha Mudras' (mudras shown in double hands) in each Basic Mudras, to show different symbols. Considering all these Mudras and their separations there are totally 470symbols used in Kathakali.  The dancers wear large head dresses, and the contours of the face are extended with molded lime.

The hero of the Kathakali rendition 

The demoness seeking love of the royal in the Kathakali story

Another scene of the Kathakali dance drama

           

             During the presentation at the Kadathanadan Kalari & Navarasa Kalari Centre, the artist at the inception initiated the ritual of invoking the Gods, before start of the performance, which thereafter was followed by detailed display of meanings of eye and hand movements.  This was followed by a short interactive skit with an audience, wherein the importance and simplicity of the hand and eye movements explained earlier, were used to portray preparation of food for the guest i.e. participant invited from amongst the audience, by the artist and thereafter, in a comical manner, the guest was made to play the drum for having partaken the food, that was quite hilarious and created an instant bonding between the artists and the audience.  This was followed by short presentation of - Narakasuravadham (Killing of Narakasura), which usually takes about seven hours’ time for complete rendition of the dance drama, but was shortened considerably to portray the essence of this Kathakali presentation.  The performance revolves around the story of Narakasura, a vicious demon and Jayantha, the valorous son of Lord Indra (King of Gods).   Nakrathundi, Narakasura’s sister gets attracted to Jayantha and approaches him in the guise of Lalitha, a beautiful woman.  Jayantha rejects her love and the disappointed demoness takes her normal form of demoness and attacks him.  He injures her and a shocked Narakasura vows to take revenge, only to find himself punished for his wrongs.  The artistes performed and portrayed the characters, Margi Vijayakumar (as Lalitha) and Margi Murali (as Nakrathundi).  We thoroughly enjoyed the performance and should be awarded all ten stars than can be awarded for the presentation.  Thereafter, we slowly walked back to our hotel and after having dinner, we retired for the night early, as we were scheduled to go for the morning safari the next morning.

Pilgrims headed towards fame shrine of Sabrimala

Some of the pilgrims buying puja related items before heading for Sabrimala shrine

Overcast conditions in Sathram

Another view of Sathram

Close up of the tree tops inside Periyar wild life sanctuary

Panoramic view of Periyar wildlife sanctuary

            We got up early next morning and on peeping out of our room found that it had rained during the previous night and the temperatures were quite down.  Since we had embarked on the journey during winters in Delhi i.e. January, 2023 we were carrying some warm clothing with us and we decided to wear those for the early morning safari in an open jeep.  The vehicle had arrived much earlier and we found the driver dozing inside, he was quite happy that we were dot on time and we started our journey in semi-darkness, as due to overcast conditions there was scanty day light.  We were headed for a place called Sathram, which literally means the ‘inn’, as in earlier times all devotees going towards the fame pilgrimage of Sabrimala, used to it as a resting place.  From our hotel we headed back to Vandi Periyar where the main land mark is the Connemara Tea Estate and from the junction adjacent to it,  the climb towards left side of the road towards the destination i.e. Sathram started.  Located 12 kilometers from Kuttiikanam junction, the road from Parunthumpara to Sathram is scenic with tea plantations on both sides.  We passed by many small hamlets and villages that were barely waking up and thereafter the road bifurcated onto a mud road and the off roading experience began .  Whereas, it was a tolerable earlier, but as we advanced further, due to overnight rains, the track had become all the more treacherous and it was almost like a roller-coaster ride.  My daughter who was seated on the back seat had the worst of experience and traded seats with me during the return journey.  It was overcast and the driver stopped the vehicle on pre-designated spot and informed that it was a great location to record the sunrise, but due to overcast conditions we could not view it.  The jeep trail runs near edge of Periyar tiger reserve and the driver informed us and also showed us some photos shot by him on his mobile, that one can spot a number of animals like elephants and bisons in this range of small hills.  The flora of the trial region in Sathram predominantly comprised of lemon grass, but due to heavy overcast conditions, there was little possibility of animals coming out in the open due to intense cold conditions.  We enjoyed the location for some time and thereafter, returned back to the hotel, the time taken for the 40 kilometers odd round trip was about three hours, as we had to proceed towards Munnar the same day.

Visit to the spice garden

Nutmeg fruit growing in the spice plantation

Black pepper growing in the spice plantation

Black cardamom growing in the spice plantation

Cocoa pod growing in the plantation

            After taking bath that was followed by breakfast, we were ready to embark upon our onward journey, the driver arrived at around 9.45 A.M and we started for our journey towards Munnar.  However, the driver had been insisting that we visit a particular spice plantation from the day we had started our journey from Trivandrum.  It was evident that he would get some commission, as he was even willing to foot the bill for the entry ticket from his own pocket, although I had informed him that I had visited spice gardens in Goa, but due to his insistence and to keep him in good humor, we decided to visit the place.  The spice garden tour was informative and the spices that we purchased was really worth every penny in quality and thus ended our Thekkady/Periyar visit.

Here is a link to short video about the trip –

© S Roy Biswas