Goa - Visiting Dudhsagar falls and spice garden

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Visiting Dudhsagar falls and spice garden

The panoramic view of the famed Dudhsagar falls

Having enjoyed the river cruise the previous evening, we had planned to visit the famed Dudhsagar falls the next day.  We had booked a package for visiting Dudhsagar falls alongwith spice garden visit as an add on and the tour operator had charged us @ Rs.1800/- per person inclusive of all charges, except for breakfast/cold drinks/water and camera charges etc. payable at the National Park entry.  The Tempo Traveler arrived right at 6.30 A.M in the morning and we were the first passengers to board.  However, a small fiasco occurred before we could board, as according to the rules of the service apartment, the gates were to be opened for entry at 7.00 A.M and the Gurkha guard stationed at the gate refused to even let us out and we had to call the Manager to sort out the issue, that delayed our departure by a good 10 odd minutes.  Since we were staying in North Goa and in Arpora locality, the total distance till Dudhsagar falls was about 81 Kms., as it is about 65 Kms. from Panjim.  The journey was smooth and uneventful, as the air conditioner was working well in the early morning hours, we did not feel the stinginess in the air because of the high humidity, till we got down at Kulem to start the jeep ride inside the Mollem National Park.  A small eating joint turned out to be one of the many such options available at Kullem to have B’fast and to use the loo.  We had some idlis (steam baked rice pudding), as it seemed to be the safest bet in the circumstances and some cold drinks to drown the same.  Thereafter, we were segregated in batches to eight persons and allocated jeeps by the tour manager and thus, started our journey towards Dudhsagar falls through the National Park.

The journey inside Mollem National park area begins

Entry gate of Mollem National Park

The trek inside the Mollem National Park

After a kilometre and a half of well metalled road, the road deteriorated into a dirt track and sitting on the back side of the Jeep was an experience in itself, as it stretched all my muscles in my body, in order maintain my equilibrium in the Jeep.  The distance from Kulem to Dudhsagar is about 11 Kms., of which the Jeep ride comprises of about 9 Kms. and trek of about 2 Kms. to reach the base of the Dudhsagar falls.  The 9 Kms. Jeep ride takes a good 45 minutes to an hour and is one hell of an experience, especially if you are seated in the boot of the Jeep.  Yet I was so much engrossed in my intent to visit this famed destination that this horrendous jeep ride could not deter my determination a wee bit.  I was fascinated by the various photographs of this famed water fall available in the internet and despite the fact that I was not visiting it during monsoons, yet I was yearning to see it with my own eyes, the splendour of this famed waterfall.

A short video of ride inside the Mollem National Park

The famed Dudhsagar waterfalls, is amongst the 100 highest waterfalls in the world. The waterfall has a height of about 310 metres and an average width of about 30 metres during monsoons. The falls assume spectacular proportions during the said rainy season, when it is fed abundantly by the clouds and the water cascades down in a silver avalanche, from the Mondovi River basin and is a awe inspiring beauty of the Western Ghats.  This cascade of water is at a junction close to Goa-Karnataka border and visitors can access the falls from both side.  However, one is not allowed to visit the base of the falls, where we were headed for, during the monsoon season due to the reason that there is flooding in the region and the dirt road inside the National Park also becomes inaccessible.

Close up of the top portion of the Dudhsagar falls

A close up shot of the middle part of the Dudhsagar falls

A close up shot of the base of the Dudhsagar falls

Like all naturally beautiful destinations in India, there are some legends or the other fascinating folklores associated with such destinations.  Likewise the famed Dudhsagar falls is also associated with a folklore that goes as that there lived a princess on the edge of the woods whose beauty was famed far and wide.  It is said that she was so beautiful that even the birds sang her praise and the sun blushed and hid behind the clouds on her approach. The Princess followed a daily morning ritual of taking a bath in a serene and lovely pool in the woods, and after her bath, she would partake a jug full of sweetened milk from a golden jug.  One day, it so transpired that she spotted a handsome prince watching her from behind some trees. Embarrassed at the invasion of her privacy and feeling vulnerable in her nudity, the Princess immediately flung the milk from the golden jug, in front of her, creating a sheet of flowing milk that acted as a curtain, protecting her from the gaze of the Prince. Legend has it that the sheet of milk, which cascades down the slopes of the mountain to this day in the form of the gushing, milk like waters of the Dudhsagar falls. Dudhsagar in Hindi literally means “Ocean of milk”.

A short video of the Dudhsagar falls

After the torturous 50 minutes of Jeep ride inside the Mollem National Park, as the road meandered through the forest and across steams overflowing across the roads, we finally reached the point from where the trek to the famed waterfall commences.  By this time it was about 10.00 A.M in the morning, but the humidity and heat was exhausting, so we commenced on our journey with water bottles, cameras and the life jacket towed onto us, as the last article is not of choice but compulsion to carry as per the rules of visit to the falls.  At this start point there is a viewing gallery infested with monkeys and provides for a glimpse of the waterfalls, for those who cannot trudge the 2 Kms. trek.  The journey was through jungle and hence it was a bit more pleasant, as direct sunlight was not making its full impact on the forest floor.  There were rivulets flowing by, with small wooden and metal bridges strewn across them for east passage, birds were chirping high up on the canopy and overall it was experiencing nature first hand.  We trudged for a good thirty odd minutes, stopping here for a gulp of water or there on a rock to catch our breath and suddenly the top of the waterfall became visible.  This vision suddenly rejuvenated our flagging spirits and the sprint was back in our legs.  There were quite a few monkeys around on the trek route and so were of same kind from our species as well, who despite instructions, were feeding them and thus, creating a nuisance for other visitors.  Even some foreigners, who are otherwise more appropriate in their approach, were indulging in the same act.  However, these little distractions were too trivial to take away the pleasure of imbuing the immensity and grandeur of the waterfall.

A photo of the famed Dudhsagar falls during monsoons - added from the internet

A bird inside the Mollem National Park

A train passing by high above on the bridge was an added spectacle for us and for a few seconds I went into a trance and visualized the view of the waterfall during rainy season when the waterfalls in cascades as the train passes by, albeit in reality it was a small trickle now.  I have culled an image of the fall from the internet as it appears during monsoons for benefit of my viewers to appreciate its immense beauty.  However, during monsoons no one is allowed to approach this base region due to heavy inflow of water and the other spectacle during these lean months is the water reservoir that forms at its base, where the tourists frolic during this period.  Having, spent a good hour or so at the base of the waterfalls, we retraced our steps back to the Jeep and fortunately being first to reach this time around, occupied the front seat and thus, was saved the torturous ride during the return journey.

A panoramic view of the Spice Garden

Close up of plant that provides Vanilla essence

Close up shot of Cashew fruit and flowers

A Nutmeg tree in the Spite garden

A Cardamom plant in the Spice Garden

       Having returned back Kulem, we again gulped in some packed fruit juice, cold drinks etc. to replenish our depleted energies and water intake to offset the loss due to heavy sweating.  Thereafter, we boarded the Tempo traveller again and headed back towards Panjim.  On the return leg of the journey, near the Ponda Township we headed to a Spice Garden (name I do not recollect or do not want to mention as I am not inclined to provide any recommendations etc.).  The trip to the spice garden was also a soothing experience, after traditional welcome, we were offered ginger lemon laced green tea, which was quite refreshing and for the kids there was a separate paid counter for purchasing cold drinks etc.  After a brief introduction thereafter, all guests were taken around the spice garden on a guided tour and this was followed by lunch that comprised of typical Goanese cuisine and we enjoyed every bit of it.  Thus, concluded our journey for the day and we headed back to your apartment in Arpora.

A short video of the Spice Garden visit

Visiting Dona Paula and enjoying the River cruise in Goa

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Visiting Dona Paula and enjoying the River cruise in Goa

A panoramic view of the Dona Paula - confluence of Zuari River with Arabian Sea

           I continue from where I had left off in my previous blog.  Having had our lunch we headed back to our service apartment, so as to avoid the harsh afternoon heat and for a brief siesta as well.  Thereafter, we started for Dona Paula at around 4.30 P.M in the evening and reached there in about 45 minutes.  Dona Paula is a secluded bay about 7 kms. from Panaji, with its magnificent view of the Mormugao harbour, it is one of the must visit destinations of Goa. This idyllic rocky tourist attraction lies at the junction where the Mandovi and the Zuari rivers meets the Arabian Sea.  The Dona Paula monument is located on a small islet, linked to the mainland by a small bridge and a quay.  However, during my visit the entire stretch was under renovation and hence the entire area was barricaded and tourists were not allowed to venture beyond the barricade.  But as I had also visited the destination in 2011, I have used my old pictures to convey the real essence of the destination.

A long shot of the cliff head of famed Dona Paula - present day view

A close up of the Dona Paula - as seen at present from a distance due to repair work

 This destination is also steeped in various local stories about a local lady named Dona Paula, who was in relationship with Portuguese nobility and hence was killed by being thrown off from the cliff.   A small collections of such anecdotes read as follows –

Dona Paula as it looked from nearer the site in 2011

The famed 'Image of India' one looking East and other West depicting confluence to two regions

The busy market selling wares of local flavour

           One legend has it that she was the lady-in-waiting of the Governor-General's wife, and in course of time the Governor fell victim to her beauty and charms. They were found out and the governor's enraged wife had her stripped and bound and rolled over the cliff, into the sea, wearing only her string of pearls, a gift of love from the Governor.

A SHORT VIDEO OF THE WATER SPORTS ETC. IN DONA PAULA, GOA

The local fishermen of the area and other natives of the place narrate quite a few ghost stories about Dona Paula.  Even the setting of moon phase has several connotations in their stories, some say that on moonlit nights, while others swear that on pitch dark nights and few others say that on the stroke of midnight, she rises from the sea and roams the area, wearing only a string of pearls and nothing else.

One of the many jetty s where from one board's the river Cruise boats

As the River cruise in Mondovi River commences

A local fishing boat passes by

          Another story that does round amongst the natives is that on Gasper Dias, a nobleman, on whose estates a fort was built because of its strategic importance, is also said to have been one of Dona Paula's lovers. Her ghost, local villagers say, appears looking desperately for the nobleman.

One of the many floating casinos - The Deltin Casino

Another of the many floating casinos - Casino Pride-II

Another one of the many floating casinos of Mondovi River - Big Daddy casino

However, now a days the most popular legend is that Dona Paula is believed to have been the daughter of one of the Portuguese Viceroys and her lover is believed to have been a native fisherman, a relationship which aroused strong racist feelings amongst the Portuguese, who got her killed by throwing her off from the cliff.  Now her ghost roams at night in search of her native lover.

A Sea Gull flying around for some food thrown by Cruise passengers

A locally ferry transporting passengers across the Mondovi River from Panaji

A typical Portuguese architecture - a home and a chapel

           There is a statute at the rocky cliff head and many just pass it off as the statute of Dona Paula and her lover.  However, the said whitewashed statue sculpted in 1969 by Baroness Von Leistner and named as the "Image of India" and is said to be depicting the figures of Mother India and Young India, one looking to the East and the other to the West. The Wheel of Ashoka, is in the middle half buried in stone to represent the ancient culture that nurtured this fusion of ideas and emotions.  Apart from this windswept spot, there are a lot of local water sport activities that are available here like boating, para-sailing, water scooters, yachting, swimming, wind surfing and fishing.  As for the ladies there are a lot of small shops selling local and other trinkets, which one might like to buy as souvenirs of their visit.

Artists performing Dhangar dance during cruise

Artists performing Kunbi dance on the cruise

The artists performing Musal dance during the river curise

The artists performing the Corredinho dance during the cruise

An integral part of Goa landscape - a Chapel by the river side

A panoramic view of the Miramar beach

As the sun sets and sets the water on fire - as seen from the River cruise

Another view of the setting sun from the River Cruise on Mondovi River in Goa

A fast moving river patrol boat of Goa Police

View of the lighted Chapel against the setting sun in Goa

As the sun light fades - the Casinos light up 

A close up of the Casino Pride II all lighted up as night falls on Mondovi River

Another cruise boat - all decked up at night with florescent colors glides by

View of the Treebo run serviced apartment in Arpora 

A photograph of Salt Restaurant in Arpora, Goa (sourced from web)

            Having spent some quality time at Dona Paula, we retraced our route back to the vicinity of the Panjim Township and visited the Miramar beach.  Thereafter, we headed for the jetty nearby and purchased the tickets for famed Mondovi River Cruise.  The cost the tickets vary from Rs.250/- to 750/- per person based upon the size and amenities being provided in the boats.  We settled for a middle priced Rs.450/- per head cruise boat.  The boat started its journey at around 6.15 P.M and there was an open deck on which the tourists were seated, with a small raised platform at one end where from local disc jockey’s played loud music, inviting the children and ladies in groups to dance on the stage.  After some time a local troupe performed live local dances and the host described the details of dances being performed.  A short detail of the dances performed were – (1) Dhangar Dance - Dhangars, a shepherd community believed to have migrated from Kathiawar region of South Gujarat and settled in the hilly north western fringes of Goa; (2) Kunbi Dance - Kunbis, the earliest settlers of Goa, are a sturdy tribal community, who though converted to Christianity, still retains the most ancient folk tradition of the land. Their songs and dance belonging to the pre-Portuguese era are uniquely social and not religious. The fast and elegant dance by a group of Kunbi women dancers, wearing traditional yet very simple dresses, lends a colourful touch to this ethnic art form.; (3) Mussal Dance - The Kshatriyas, the warrior class of 'Chandor', perform this dance-cum-song to celebrate the victory of Harihar, the Hindu King of Vijaynagar over the Cholas in the early 14th century; and (4) Corredinho Dance - A Portuguese folk dance and a beautiful example of Portuguese cultural influence, this elegant dance is highly popular among Goan elite youth. Corredinho Marcha de Fontainhas, a song-cum-dance, is famous for its rhythmic and exquisite footwork where normally six couples take part. The colourful costumes are a feast to the eye.   There are vendors who do the rounds on the decks selling their ware, mostly food items, but very few people were interested in buying, instead most of us had our eyes riveted on to the nature’s splendour that was unfolding before our eyes or else enjoying the dance show put forth by the troupe.  We returned back to the jetty at around 7.10 P.M and by that time the nightfall had been ushered in and we headed back to our hotel.  That night we dined at a upcoming shack restaurant known as ‘The Salt’ in Arpora, as it was walking destination from our place of stay.  We had authentic Goanese food, with the all-time favourite ‘Fish n’chips’ thrown in, along with main course and we enjoyed the ambience, food & service to the hilt. Thus, ended our second day of our Goa tour.

A SHORT VIDEO THE RIVER CRUISE IN GOA

Visiting South and Old Goa

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Visiting South and Old Goa 

The famed Baga beach

       As we happened to reach Goa on Monday evening, we had not planned for much for that day, taking into consideration the fact that flights at times get delayed.  The furnished apartment that I had booked for our stay in Goa was in North Goa and in Arpora locality.  As the Baga beach was the nearest and in a walking distance, we decided to visit this destination in the evening.   Baga is located at the north end of the contiguous beach stretch that starts from Sinquerim, Candolim and stretches right up to Calangute.  We spent the evening enjoying the various activities taking place in the beach and also enjoyed the sun set from the Beach.  The beach has a long row of colourful umbrellas with sitting decks placed below them in a neat row all along the coastline.  Since we had placed ourselves in a serviced apartment, we through it fit to have our dinner at the beach side shack and then head back to the apartments.   Accordingly, we decided to dine at the famed shack, called as St. Anthony’s running since the 1960’s and we enjoyed our evening to the hilt, as the ambience as well as the food was worth every penny spent.

Here is a short video of the Baga beach

Early next morning, as scheduled by us, especially it being a Tuesday, we had decided to visit the temples in South Goa and the Churches in Old Goa. Accordingly, we started in the hired vehicle early in the morning, so as to avoid the stinging late morning/afternoon sun.  The first destination visited by us in South Goa was the famed Balaji temple, which is situated in Kunkulied village.  The temple whose full name is Tirupati Balaji Padmavati temple and it is placed amidst a lush green complex, with a carpet of grass that is interspersed with flowering plants, provides for a soothing experience.  The temple complex consists of the main temple, housing a tall statue of Lord Balaji and similar in appearance to the deity in Tirupati.  Next to this main temple is a smaller temple dedicated to Lord Ganesha and Goddess Padmavati and this temple complex too like all the other temples in south India has a tall ‘dhwaja stambha’.  Despite having started early, walking on the paved path was next to impossible due to the heat and we had to trudge alongside on the green grass.  Having paid our obeisance in the temple, we proceeded further to visit the next temple in South Goa.

The entrance to the famed Balaji temple

The lush green temple complex of Balaji temple

  The most famous temple destination in South Goa is the Mangeshi temple, which is about 450 years old and dedicated to Lord Shiva and is situated in Ponda.  The main features of this temple is the seven story lamp tower called ‘deep stambha’ and a magnificent water tank that is considered to be the oldest part of this temple complex.  Apart from this there is also a prominent Nandi Bull in the temple precincts.  Earlier the temple was well exposed for viewing, however, at present the corridor in front has been covered thereby obscuring the temple façade to some extent.  It is one of the most beautiful temples in Goa and is a must visit destination.

The magnificent 'Deep Stambh' in Mangeshi temple

The corridor in front of the main temple in Mangeshi

The water tank in Mangeshi temple

          We retraced our way back to Old Goa to visit the old churches there, as it was the part of Goa that housed the Portugese invaders and they had developed many churches in the region over the centuries.  These churches are really an architectural wonder in their own rights.  The first of such church that we visited was the Basilica of Bom Jesus, which is famous for housing the mortal remains of St.Francis Xavier and is also an UNESCO heritage site.  No amount of narration would truly portray the architectural beauty of this church and I would rather let the photographs do the talking.

The outer facade of Basilica of Bom Jesus

The inside view of the altar of  Bom Jesus church in Old Goa

An ornate altar inside the Bom Jesus church

Another close up view of the altar inside Bom Jesus Church

A painting inside the church of Bom Jesus depicting remains of St.Francis Xavier

The next church that we visited was the Se Cathedral that is located right across the road, opposite to the Basilica of Bom Jesus.  The main entrance of the cathedral has Latin inscriptions of Corinthian columns. Out of the eight chapels in the Church, two have ornamented perforated wooden screens and remaining six panels have scenes of Saint Catherine’s life carved on them. This filigree carving gives a royal look to the place. The Chapel of Blessed Sacrament is famous for decorated wall and ceiling painting. The arches of the altars are decorated with old paintings. One can also find many small statues, wooden figures and other artefacts.  The Se Cathedral also holds a huge brass bell called as Golden Bell that is the largest in Goa. The main altar of the church stands as a dedication of Catherine of Alexandria.  Only a pictorial representation can do justice to the beauty of this church as well and you may enjoy the photographs.

A panoramic view of Se Cathedral

View of the altar of Se Cathedral

Close up of the altar in Se Cathedral

One of the statutes inside Se Cathedral

Chapel of Blessed Sacrament inside Se Cathedral

St. Catherine of Alexendria inside Se Cathedral

          By the time we were finished with visiting the Churches, we were totally famished and being a Tuesday, we had to have a vegetarian food only and hence as advised by our driver, we headed for Krishna Restaurant to have our lunch, which is in the vicinity in Old Goa.  The driver dropped us there and went for lunch, but thereafter, despite calling on his mobile number umpteen number of times, it was found to be unreachable and with all the camera equipment in the car, there was a sense of panic that set in and just as I was about to approach the local police, the driver came in claiming that his mobile has malfunctioned and thereafter, we headed back to our service apartment.  I am putting this incident on record so that all those who follow my blog do not leave their costly equipment in their hired vehicles to avoid unnecessary stress and anxiety.

Family having lunch at Krishna Vegetarian Restaurant

      

Here is the link to a short video of the tour