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Sunday, September 15, 2019

Goa - Visiting Dudhsagar falls and spice garden


Visiting Dudhsagar falls and spice garden
The panoramic view of the famed Dudhsagar falls
Having enjoyed the river cruise the previous evening, we had planned to visit the famed Dudhsagar falls the next day.  We had booked a package for visiting Dudhsagar falls alongwith spice garden visit as an add on and the tour operator had charged us @ Rs.1800/- per person inclusive of all charges, except for breakfast/cold drinks/water and camera charges etc. payable at the National Park entry.  The Tempo Traveler arrived right at 6.30 A.M in the morning and we were the first passengers to board.  However, a small fiasco occurred before we could board, as according to the rules of the service apartment, the gates were to be opened for entry at 7.00 A.M and the Gurkha guard stationed at the gate refused to even let us out and we had to call the Manager to sort out the issue, that delayed our departure by a good 10 odd minutes.  Since we were staying in North Goa and in Arpora locality, the total distance till Dudhsagar falls was about 81 Kms., as it is about 65 Kms. from Panjim.  The journey was smooth and uneventful, as the air conditioner was working well in the early morning hours, we did not feel the stinginess in the air because of the high humidity, till we got down at Kulem to start the jeep ride inside the Mollem National Park.  A small eating joint turned out to be one of the many such options available at Kullem to have B’fast and to use the loo.  We had some idlis (steam baked rice pudding), as it seemed to be the safest bet in the circumstances and some cold drinks to drown the same.  Thereafter, we were segregated in batches to eight persons and allocated jeeps by the tour manager and thus, started our journey towards Dudhsagar falls through the National Park.
The journey inside Mollem National park area begins
Entry gate of Mollem National Park
The trek inside the Mollem National Park


After a kilometre and a half of well metalled road, the road deteriorated into a dirt track and sitting on the back side of the Jeep was an experience in itself, as it stretched all my muscles in my body, in order maintain my equilibrium in the Jeep.  The distance from Kulem to Dudhsagar is about 11 Kms., of which the Jeep ride comprises of about 9 Kms. and trek of about 2 Kms. to reach the base of the Dudhsagar falls.  The 9 Kms. Jeep ride takes a good 45 minutes to an hour and is one hell of an experience, especially if you are seated in the boot of the Jeep.  Yet I was so much engrossed in my intent to visit this famed destination that this horrendous jeep ride could not deter my determination a wee bit.  I was fascinated by the various photographs of this famed water fall available in the internet and despite the fact that I was not visiting it during monsoons, yet I was yearning to see it with my own eyes, the splendour of this famed waterfall.
A short video of ride inside the Mollem National Park

The famed Dudhsagar waterfalls, is amongst the 100 highest waterfalls in the world. The waterfall has a height of about 310 metres and an average width of about 30 metres during monsoons. The falls assume spectacular proportions during the said rainy season, when it is fed abundantly by the clouds and the water cascades down in a silver avalanche, from the Mondovi River basin and is a awe inspiring beauty of the Western Ghats.  This cascade of water is at a junction close to Goa-Karnataka border and visitors can access the falls from both side.  However, one is not allowed to visit the base of the falls, where we were headed for, during the monsoon season due to the reason that there is flooding in the region and the dirt road inside the National Park also becomes inaccessible.
Close up of the top portion of the Dudhsagar falls

A close up shot of the middle part of the Dudhsagar falls
A close up shot of the base of the Dudhsagar falls

Like all naturally beautiful destinations in India, there are some legends or the other fascinating folklores associated with such destinations.  Likewise the famed Dudhsagar falls is also associated with a folklore that goes as that there lived a princess on the edge of the woods whose beauty was famed far and wide.  It is said that she was so beautiful that even the birds sang her praise and the sun blushed and hid behind the clouds on her approach. The Princess followed a daily morning ritual of taking a bath in a serene and lovely pool in the woods, and after her bath, she would partake a jug full of sweetened milk from a golden jug.  One day, it so transpired that she spotted a handsome prince watching her from behind some trees. Embarrassed at the invasion of her privacy and feeling vulnerable in her nudity, the Princess immediately flung the milk from the golden jug, in front of her, creating a sheet of flowing milk that acted as a curtain, protecting her from the gaze of the Prince. Legend has it that the sheet of milk, which cascades down the slopes of the mountain to this day in the form of the gushing, milk like waters of the Dudhsagar falls. Dudhsagar in Hindi literally means “Ocean of milk”.
A short video of the Dudhsagar falls

After the torturous 50 minutes of Jeep ride inside the Mollem National Park, as the road meandered through the forest and across steams overflowing across the roads, we finally reached the point from where the trek to the famed waterfall commences.  By this time it was about 10.00 A.M in the morning, but the humidity and heat was exhausting, so we commenced on our journey with water bottles, cameras and the life jacket towed onto us, as the last article is not of choice but compulsion to carry as per the rules of visit to the falls.  At this start point there is a viewing gallery infested with monkeys and provides for a glimpse of the waterfalls, for those who cannot trudge the 2 Kms. trek.  The journey was through jungle and hence it was a bit more pleasant, as direct sunlight was not making its full impact on the forest floor.  There were rivulets flowing by, with small wooden and metal bridges strewn across them for east passage, birds were chirping high up on the canopy and overall it was experiencing nature first hand.  We trudged for a good thirty odd minutes, stopping here for a gulp of water or there on a rock to catch our breath and suddenly the top of the waterfall became visible.  This vision suddenly rejuvenated our flagging spirits and the sprint was back in our legs.  There were quite a few monkeys around on the trek route and so were of same kind from our species as well, who despite instructions, were feeding them and thus, creating a nuisance for other visitors.  Even some foreigners, who are otherwise more appropriate in their approach, were indulging in the same act.  However, these little distractions were too trivial to take away the pleasure of imbuing the immensity and grandeur of the waterfall.
A photo of the famed Dudhsagar falls during monsoons - added from the internet
A bird inside the Mollem National Park
A train passing by high above on the bridge was an added spectacle for us and for a few seconds I went into a trance and visualized the view of the waterfall during rainy season when the waterfalls in cascades as the train passes by, albeit in reality it was a small trickle now.  I have culled an image of the fall from the internet as it appears during monsoons for benefit of my viewers to appreciate its immense beauty.  However, during monsoons no one is allowed to approach this base region due to heavy inflow of water and the other spectacle during these lean months is the water reservoir that forms at its base, where the tourists frolic during this period.  Having, spent a good hour or so at the base of the waterfalls, we retraced our steps back to the Jeep and fortunately being first to reach this time around, occupied the front seat and thus, was saved the torturous ride during the return journey.

A panoramic view of the Spice Garden
Close up of plant that provides Vanilla essence
Close up shot of Cashew fruit and flowers
A Nutmeg tree in the Spite garden
A Cardamom plant in the Spice Garden
       Having returned back Kulem, we again gulped in some packed fruit juice, cold drinks etc. to replenish our depleted energies and water intake to offset the loss due to heavy sweating.  Thereafter, we boarded the Tempo traveller again and headed back towards Panjim.  On the return leg of the journey, near the Ponda Township we headed to a Spice Garden (name I do not recollect or do not want to mention as I am not inclined to provide any recommendations etc.).  The trip to the spice garden was also a soothing experience, after traditional welcome, we were offered ginger lemon laced green tea, which was quite refreshing and for the kids there was a separate paid counter for purchasing cold drinks etc.  After a brief introduction thereafter, all guests were taken around the spice garden on a guided tour and this was followed by lunch that comprised of typical Goanese cuisine and we enjoyed every bit of it.  Thus, concluded our journey for the day and we headed back to your apartment in Arpora.
A short video of the Spice Garden visit